Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures (1 Viewer)

[worldspan]

Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures....Now idles but fluctuates Post #19

How do i remove the metal clamp inside the green "housing"? As you can see, the green wire has been disconnected and i'd like to reconnect it.
Is the female clamp locked into the housing somehow? I've tried needle nose pliers and small screwdrivers to get it loose but to no avail. Is there something I'm missing or can this not be done?
Thanks for looking

 

[worldspan]

Anybody willing to help? I cant fix this easy 4ss problem.

 

[ElliottB]

Get some small specialty tools (think dentistry tools) and try to pick out the electrical connector. If all else fails, you could order this piece from the dealer.

 

[2mbb]

Here's a thread with some info. I depends a little bit on the connector. But there will be a spring tab that you will have to depress or pry up. After you get the connector out, you will have to carefully open up the wire crimp to put the wire back in.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/workshop-home-improvement/279070-re-using-toyota-conectors.html

 

[worldspan]

Here's a thread with some info. I depends a little bit on the connector. But there will be a spring tab that you will have to depress or pry up. After you get the connector out, you will have to carefully open up the wire crimp to put the wire back in.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/workshop-home-improvement/279070-re-using-toyota-conectors.html

Great Thread 2mbb!!! This is exactly the info i needed....i didn't find this when i searched earlier on here. Once again, you've helped me out.

Many thanks

 

[worldspan]

Still Stalling..........

I haven't been able to remove the female wire connector from the plug harness so i just shoved the wire into the clamp and used a needle nose plier to secure it. However, my car will still not start or idle w/o the choke on AND it dies when shifting into neutral.

I hear the Fuel cut solenoid clicking so i know it works with my temporary fix but could this still be my problem for the stalling/ no-idle issue?

It's obviously fuel/air related so any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Spike Strip]

What did you do for the temp fix ?

Did you Ground the WHITE wire off the idle-solenoid from the carb (grnd to a screw on the carb)?

 

[worldspan]

Spike,
For the fix, i stuck the wire back into the harness and used a needle nose pliers to clamp it back into place then connected the two "green clips" to complete the circuit. I still heard a clicking sound so i assumed the broken wire was making contact inside the harness. Bad ASSUMPTION?

No i did not ground the white wire from the male green clip. If i do, do i still need to connect the green wire somehow?

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Spike Strip]

If you heard the "clicking" then the idle solenoid is working. I had stalling on mine and intermittent power to the idle solenoid and it turned out to be the emissions control box. If you ground the white wire from the solenoid, it bypasses the emissions control circuit, and is a common fix.

You can try grounding the white wire and putting 12v to other and see if you can get idle. If yes, then I'd look the emissions box, under the driver's kick panel.

If you're sure everything for the idle solenoid and its control is working, your problem might be in the idle circuits of the carb, which means cleaning or a rebuild...

 

[roscoFJ73]

You might want to read this thread from the diesel forum about a similar plug

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/299448-wiring-connector-backshell-hj75.html

 

[worldspan]

If you heard the "clicking" then the idle solenoid is working. I had stalling on mine and intermittent power to the idle solenoid and it turned out to be the emissions control box. If you ground the white wire from the solenoid, it bypasses the emissions control circuit, and is a common fix.
What/where on the carb do i ground the white wire coming form the carb? Any screw on the carb will do , correct? What is the green wire's purpose?

You can try grounding the white wire and putting 12v to other and see if you can get idle. If yes, then I'd look the emissions box, under the driver's kick panel.
Can you explain when you talk about putting 12v...I'm not sure i follow this procedure.

If you're sure everything for the idle solenoid and its control is working, your problem might be in the idle circuits of the carb, which means cleaning or a rebuild...

This is a desmogged engine so i know the carb needs to be tweaked but i have cleaned it and replaced parts a couple of years back....maybe its due for another cleaning.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP

 

[Spike Strip]

White wire from Idle solenoid to any ground -- On mine, I put a ring connector on the white wire an put that under a screw on the air horn next to the connector... I'll see if I can find a pic.

Green wire (or black in above pic) is the POS (+) lead. Just leave that in the connector and connect as usual, being sure you're getting 12v at the green wire (ign on) on wire loom side of the connector

Putting 12v directly to the idle-solenoid makes it "ON" (if you're sure it's working). If your truck will then idle, you need to look at the power circuit to the solenoid. If it still won't idle, look at the carb.

Doesn't take much to clog an idle-circuit in the carb.

Since your motor is desmoged, have you checked for vac leaks?

 

[worldspan]

White wire from Idle solenoid to any ground -- On mine, I put a ring connector on the white wire an put that under a screw on the air horn next to the connector... I'll see if I can find a pic.

Green wire (or black in above pic) is the POS (+) lead. Just leave that in the connector and connect as usual, being sure you're getting 12v at the green wire (ign on) on wire loom side of the connector
I will cut the white wire and ground it as well as connect the harness to each other so the green wire completes it circuit.


Putting 12v directly to the idle-solenoid makes it "ON" (if you're sure it's working). If your truck will then idle, you need to look at the power circuit to the solenoid. If it still won't idle, look at the carb.
Forgive my ignorance , but does grounding the idle solenoid put 12v on it?
Doesn't take much to clog an idle-circuit in the carb.

Since your motor is desmoged, have you checked for vac leaks?

I have checked for vac leaks and since they;re not many lines any more, i can say that this is not the case. I will check again when i get home from work, post pics, and reply what the outcome came from grounding.

Ty

 

[Spike Strip]

<<"Forgive my ignorance , but does grounding the idle solenoid put 12v on it?">>



Grounding the idle-solenoid just by-passes the emissions control box. The box works by controling the ground. If you ground the white wire, you should have a constant 12v to the solenoid when the ignition is on.

But you have to verify you're getting 12v at the connector. Use a test light or voltmeter or just listen for the click when the ignition switch is ON.

 

[worldspan]

10-4 good buddy

 

[KayakPanic]

Also, on any of the Toyota connectors, you can always just cut off the green plugs from both sides of the wiring, and then use extender wires and new connectors too reconnect.

I have always been able to back the connectors out with needle-nose, myself, or got fed up and eliminated the green plugs (esp. if the connector housings were broken).

 

[worldspan]

Also, on any of the Toyota connectors, you can always just cut off the green plugs from both sides of the wiring, and then use extender wires and new connectors too reconnect.

I have always been able to back the connectors out with needle-nose, myself, or got fed up and eliminated the green plugs (esp. if the connector housings were broken).

Yes, i thought about this also but i will use it as my last resort. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[worldspan]

WTF??!!!!!

OK so i'm lost!
I grounded the white wire to a carb screw and connected the green wires but heard no clicking and the engine wouldn't idle at all except with full choke then would eventually die when i lessened the choke.

So then i reconnected (took the ground off) the wires back to "normal" connection (out of the harness) and i heard the "clicking" sound BUT it still wouldn't idle.

is my carb full of sh!t or is there something else wrong with it?????

If this doesn't make sense, i'll be glad to elaborate..........

 

[worldspan]

any suggestions?

Ok....got it to idle above 1000rpms w/o the choke by attempting (i say that word loosely) the "lean drop method".
Now the car fluctuates (in neutral) from 1800rpms to 1300rpms and repeats this "up & down" idle.

What causes this????

 

[Spike Strip]

I dunno - Maybe the ground you're using isn't good?

There may be an easier way to do this, someone else could chime in, but I'd start by eliminating possible causes.

1st, like I said above, I'd use some long test leads (wires with aligator clips) and ground the white idle-solenoid wire, and run the other one (black wire) to the battery Pos terminal. Just to make sure, I'm talking about the wires that come out of the solenoid in the carb. You should hear a "click-click-click" from the solenoid when tapping the ground wire to ground with the pos connected. If you don't hear that click solenoid ain't workin'.

Now, if the truck idles, there's probably something wrong with the solenoid control circuit.

If the truck still won't idle, it's probably something with the carb, which means taking it apart, or sending for rebuild.