Loss of power, torque, dead spot, hesitation whatever you want to call it!

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Mar 21, 2014
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When a clutch slips it usually happens in the higher gears when the most torque is applied. The engine revs higher but the car doesn’t go any faster.
Yeah I know it’s not the clutch but it just reminds me of that feeling then after 2000 rpm it accelerates. Very weird. Like I said I will check the plugs, check timing again, do a lean drop again just to make sure those I know are dialed. I feel like I’m beating a dead horse. Maybe a desmog and a sniper kit will solve my issues
 
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Read post #12 in this thread

Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuel-cut-off-help-w-pictures.300513/

He did this as a permanent fix, you can use some spare wire and temporarily test this instead, your issues sounds awfully similar to this.
I did that mod awhile ago.

AE2CB7F8-3B66-427A-A19D-10B02536FC36.jpeg
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2014
Messages
357
Read post #12 in this thread

Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuel-cut-off-help-w-pictures.300513/

He did this as a permanent fix, you can use some spare wire and temporarily test this instead, your issues sounds awfully similar to this.
I guess I can still test it. Unplug the the connector and run a jump from the ground of the carb to battery ground then where the positive from the solinoid to battery positive and see if it clicks?
 

cwwfj60

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I guess I can still test it. Unplug the the connector and run a jump from the ground of the carb to battery ground then where the positive from the solinoid to battery positive and see if it clicks?
Sure, but you idle good, so to test thoroughly you need to safely supply it with 12v and ground and drive it….I doubt that’s the issue now that I know you have it grounded, the positive comes from the ignition switch.

Valves wouldn’t cause a “leak” but if you don’t know when they were done last I’d definitely do a quick run on them, do it hot. They can make a world of difference if they are severely neglected.
 
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Sure, but you idle good, so to test thoroughly you need to safely supply it with 12v and ground and drive it….I doubt that’s the issue now that I know you have it grounded, the positive comes from the ignition switch.

Valves wouldn’t cause a “leak” but if you don’t know when they were done last I’d definitely do a quick run on them, do it hot. They can make a world of difference if they are severely neglected.
the question I have about the valve adjustment. Put the pointer on the flywheel to the line (TDC). if its on the compression stroke the rotor of the distributor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire at the distributor? Adjust 1,2,3,5,7,9. Then rotate the engine 360 Degrees stop at the TDC line again. Where should my rotor be pointing then so I know I am on the exhaust stroke? Then adjust 4,6,8,10,11,12. and how do I turn the motor over manually by the fly wheel? unhook the Coil so it doesn't fire.
 
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the question I have about the valve adjustment. Put the pointer on the flywheel to the line (TDC). if its on the compression stroke the rotor of the distributor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire at the distributor? Adjust 1,2,3,5,7,9. Then rotate the engine 360 Degrees stop at the TDC line again. Where should my rotor be pointing then so I know I am on the exhaust stroke? Then adjust 4,6,8,10,11,12. and how do I turn the motor over manually by the fly wheel? unhook the Coil so it doesn't fire.

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ABF8E2D7-48DE-4E84-A3C8-8FC60B66A4FA.jpeg


955CD067-1609-4B2A-8958-56A5676C2E93.jpeg
 

cwwfj60

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Can you swap out a Accelerator pump on car?
Your accel pump is what makes the nice stream from the side, the venturies operate off of the air drawing through, accel pump compensates for your throttle inputs.

To me it sounds like it’s working fine.
 

cwwfj60

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Good diagram. So I don’t ever check the rotor, I typically put it on TDC line, then find which valves are loose or tight and decipher which stroke I’m on, make sense? This isn’t fool proof but you never adjust valves that are fully compressed.

I usually feel the front three or the back three to identify the stroke then go from there

But, I guess I should answer your question, the rotor will be 180* or opposite direction for “B”. Whichever cylinder that rotor is pointing at on the distributor cap will have both valves closed.
 
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Ok well I found out that my Timing was off. I wasn't aware to block off both ports on the Dizzy to set the timing. after I set the timing to 7 degrees the "dead spot" was gone. Drove it and there is what I think is a ping. My vacuum went up so that's good. about 19 right now. Came back did the lean drop again. drove still a ping not as bad. Only in 3rd and forth slight grade. So now im trying to figure out if it is a ping or like an exhaust rattle in that rpm and frequency. drives good, idles good.
 

g-man

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That's the plastic? piece in the Dizzy?
yes a bushing around the stop pin, but also lighter springs or just send it off to Jim C for a proper recurve. Is your EGR working? you can test it by pulling vacuum on the top vacuum line to the EGR valve while at idle. It should kill the truck or almost stall if the valve is opening. If it doesn't open at all your EGR is disabled and you need to recurve your dizzy.
 

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