Builds '78 Refreshtoration, what next? (1 Viewer)

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Looks like one side is out. That happened to me - the LEDs need the right polarity unlike the old ones so just took the holder out and rotated 180 to match + to +. Did you cut out the light shields? I did and mine is almost too bright.
 
Polarity eh?
Looks like one side is out. That happened to me - the LEDs need the right polarity unlike the old ones so just took the holder out and rotated 180 to match + to +. Did you cut out the light shields? I did and mine is almost too bright.
Thanks!

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Gonna take it out for a real world test now. I didn’t touch the light shields. Don’t need it too bright. Just want to be able to see when I’m on empty.
 
Continuing on the interior refresh theme, I’ve been wanting to add sound deadener and heat insulation and was going to go with Noico or similar but heard a horror story from @Trialsallday about it causing rust. Since I do have some of that and live in New England by the salt water, I decided to go with a rubber mat from Home Depot. Also took inspiration from @Purpleaction and power washed the heck out of the OEM mat. Did a little cleaning and new paint on the seats and finally used some Formula 303 Protectant per suggestion from @GA Architect, which is awesome.

Now of course the heater blower and console look way worse in comparison so they may be next..

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Man...you are really getting after it. Your OEM floor mat looks brand new. Heater refurb is on my list as well.
 
Since I had it all freshened up and the salt is off the roads, I decided to drive it to work - about 40 mins, mostly highway.

Halfway there it was making a louder than normal ratatatat sound with some vibration at high speed. I didn’t think much of it. Left to go home, in a hurry and it happened again, only over 50 or so. Slowed down and when taking my foot off accelerator it got worse. After another 10 mins I decided I had to pull over. Took an off ramp and went to look under the car and found the culprit immediately.

Fortunately, I Found a mechanic around the corner who had some bolts and got her home.

Close one

Gonna put some locktite on this time and double check the torque specs.

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Really nice work @Goldbug. You’re an inspiration for me to get some upgrades done. Those LED headlights are now on my “to do”. I was thinking stay as much All-Stock as possible but that upgrade seems affordable, doable and looks low-modification. Finding somewhere to stash the extra harness wires appears to be biggest challenge - let me know if I’m missing something on that. Congrats on acquiring and install of the unicorn air intake clamp! I think I have one located and in-shipping... if plating May want to Gold Plate as those little suckers seem to be precious metal 😳
 
Really nice work @Goldbug. You’re an inspiration for me to get some upgrades done. Those LED headlights are now on my “to do”. I was thinking stay as much All-Stock as possible but that upgrade seems affordable, doable and looks low-modification. Finding somewhere to stash the extra harness wires appears to be biggest challenge - let me know if I’m missing something on that. Congrats on acquiring and install of the unicorn air intake clamp! I think I have one located and in-shipping... if plating May want to Gold Plate as those little suckers seem to be precious metal 😳
Yes, installing the new Koito lights was very easy, enlarging the pigtail to fit to the battery was the most time consuming, but you probably won't have to do that. I just zip tied the extra wire for now, will go back and cut it out and clean it up later. Congrats on the air intake clamp, hard to find indeed!
 
Your project is looking good. Just an fyi, the driveshaft bolts are specific to the application.
 
Your project is looking good. Just an fyi, the driveshaft bolts are specific to the application.
Specific to the application meaning the location/end of the driveshaft? I ordered four 90105-11H00

also: you win best screen name.
 
If your part # is for driveshaft bolts and nuts, then you got it covered. I just didn't want you to fit just any bolt in the flanges. They have a distinct shank diameter and length to fit the D/S Flanges properly.
 
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Got defeated by the heater control indicator once again. I used two short wire lengths to confirm it worked with the new bulb from Napa by connecting it to the fuse panel. Then checked again that the two wires under the dash worked. Except I touched the two wires and shorted it out! All the fuses in panel are good and can’t find the blown fuse to fix.
So I redid the fender emblems.
 
@Goldbug ....happy you got it working. I was at a loss as to what was going on. Started thinking bare wires under dash or the like. Anyway.. I love the extra light in the cab at night. As always ...keep up the good work.
 

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