I was able to remove my old one, put on a new one (from FJ40Dash.com, not OEM) without removing the top or putting the windshield down
Builds '78 Refreshtoration, what next?
- Thread starter Goldbug
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Goldbug
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- #122
Top was off. I removed the defroster arms, then the windshield bolts, and tilted the windshield down onto the hood. I think you need to tilt the windshield down. Might be possible to do without, but would be harder. I think you probably could do it all with the top on, but would be harder. There is a metal rail that the pad is screwed onto. That metal rail slides into the cowl area with tabs that keep it from coming out. If you bend/pull that carefully, you may be able to do it without removing top/tilting windshield. I can take another look at it tonight and re-assess.
Catching Neutral
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I have a local group which is now about 10 strong. Mostly guys who I met at the gas pump, etc.
We have five 40s, one 60, one 80, two 100s, two 200s, and a 55 that just relocated to Austin.
Keep stalking my friend
We have five 40s, one 60, one 80, two 100s, two 200s, and a 55 that just relocated to Austin.
Keep stalking my friend
Goldbug
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- #126
Removed the doors this week. That meant that the mirrors and speakers also disappeared though. So I picked up some of these from SOR and then some of these mirrors and arms after reviewing this helpful thread from @Onur . The mirrors are the convex type. In hindsight I might have gone with the 87901-60011 as the convex are rather small, and have a lot of distortion to achieve a really wide view (objects in mirror are much closer than they appear)
The kick vent panels fit ok, but were maybe 1/8" too big on the top and bottom I'd say. I wasn't crazy about drilling new holes into the tub so I used 3M Scotch Mount tape since I had some (could probably use VHB too). It seems to work well so far. If I didn't have the OEM floor mat, it would have been a good bit easier. The mat takes up more room than you'd think and eliminates some of the surface area for mounting, but I'm not about to cut it! I did trim the passenger side speaker panel a bit on the bottom with an angle grinder. I can still operate the kick vents, but just barely. For paint, I did a few coats of primer on the speaker panels, then several of the mustard which I got from Automotive Touch Up Paint, and some clear. It seems very close to the OEM color in person, close enough no one would notice.
I used cheap Kicker speakers from amazon that fit great and sound decent. They're plenty loud even with doors and top off, though the sound quality isn't great, but I wasn't expecting it would be.
The kick vent panels fit ok, but were maybe 1/8" too big on the top and bottom I'd say. I wasn't crazy about drilling new holes into the tub so I used 3M Scotch Mount tape since I had some (could probably use VHB too). It seems to work well so far. If I didn't have the OEM floor mat, it would have been a good bit easier. The mat takes up more room than you'd think and eliminates some of the surface area for mounting, but I'm not about to cut it! I did trim the passenger side speaker panel a bit on the bottom with an angle grinder. I can still operate the kick vents, but just barely. For paint, I did a few coats of primer on the speaker panels, then several of the mustard which I got from Automotive Touch Up Paint, and some clear. It seems very close to the OEM color in person, close enough no one would notice.
I used cheap Kicker speakers from amazon that fit great and sound decent. They're plenty loud even with doors and top off, though the sound quality isn't great, but I wasn't expecting it would be.
Goldbug
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- #127
Made a lot of progress lately, some of the easy cosmetic stuff for instant gratification and some more challenging for lasting gratification.
Cup holders from @corleykj came in a few months ago now, painted them to match with rattle can from Automotive Touch Up Paint, and they came out pretty well.
Tackled the exhaust leak that's been on there since I got it and promptly made it worse, before making it better. With encouragement from @Chestcutter I drilled the stripped hole in the manifold, tapped it, and put in a HeliCoil. I didn't have the appetite to do it the right way like he did by removing it, so left it on and it worked out pretty darn well! It is now dramatically quieter than it's ever been. When @SteveH said "that exhaust stud is critical" he was right.
Almost ready for the Fall Gathering next weekend
Cup holders from @corleykj came in a few months ago now, painted them to match with rattle can from Automotive Touch Up Paint, and they came out pretty well.
Tackled the exhaust leak that's been on there since I got it and promptly made it worse, before making it better. With encouragement from @Chestcutter I drilled the stripped hole in the manifold, tapped it, and put in a HeliCoil. I didn't have the appetite to do it the right way like he did by removing it, so left it on and it worked out pretty darn well! It is now dramatically quieter than it's ever been. When @SteveH said "that exhaust stud is critical" he was right.
Almost ready for the Fall Gathering next weekend
Yep. I too was able to install my new dash pad with the roof on.
Chestcutter
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firefighterjed
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I bet it feels good to get that exhaust buttoned up. Sounds better, stinks less, and isn’t nagging you to get it done any more!!
Chestcutter
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Also I had the same experience with the SOR speaker panels. Nicely made but too tall so they interfered with the kick vents. I ended up bending them using a vice and a couple of wood blocks to make a more acute angle at the top and I only have aftermarket mats so I cut them to get the panels as low as possible. Worked OK. I think I will be looking at wakeboard speakers to get some sound up higher.
@Goldbug now that I look at the pics closer I see you took the front hinges apart - how easy was it to get the pins out? Mine are not responding to any hammer / punch combo I have thrown at them
@Goldbug now that I look at the pics closer I see you took the front hinges apart - how easy was it to get the pins out? Mine are not responding to any hammer / punch combo I have thrown at them
Goldbug
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- Thread starter
- #132
Front hinges meaning the ones on the door? If so, not hard. I used a nail punch (brass punch would have probably been better). Nicked the paint a little, but mine has that whole “patina” thing so an extra nick isn’t noticeable.
A little B’laster the night before makes them come out much easier. And definitely get the brass bushings from @SouthBostonFJ40 when you put them back. They make the doors much smoother
Goldbug
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- Thread starter
- #133
Rainy day here and managed to be able to spend most of the day in the garage since kids soccer games were rained out. Built a grind box to keep them out of the house.
Pulled off the aftermarket door weatherstrip and replaced with OEM Toyota. Big improvement.
Also got the hard top back on and fixed a few odds and ends and did a lot of garage clean up.
Pulled off the aftermarket door weatherstrip and replaced with OEM Toyota. Big improvement.
Also got the hard top back on and fixed a few odds and ends and did a lot of garage clean up.
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
In a perfect world we would have multiple copies including one with top on and one topless
CondeCruiser
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Just read through the whole thread. Nice work.
middlecalf
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a grind box, of course! Did you grind the cruiser?
Goldbug
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- #138
I noticed a little play in the front wheels, didn't seem to be loose lug nuts, so decided to check the hubs. But 2 of the 6 allen screws on the Warn hub don't want to come off! I tried: Leverage, PBLaster, Heat, Reverse Drill Bits, Extractor set. And I'm left with one that's just stripped and stuck, while the other has part of a drill bit inside it now.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Goldbug
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- #139
Well, I got the allen bolts out by drilling the tops. Messed it up a little in the process, but found replacement hubs at half off on Amazon warehouse, so figured I'd replace both sides and keep one as a spare. PBlaster or other penetrating oil and patience are definitely the way to go next time. Getting the snap ring off was the hardest part. Used the fish scale method per FSM to adjust the pre-load on the wheel bearing, a first for me. Went ok, except that passenger side was up to 40+ lbs of resistance if I snugged both hub nuts on. If I backed it down to 12lbs, the wheel was a little lose. For now, it's a little loose and I'm guessing all the goo has something to do with it.
Oh, and a knuckle job is in my future. Like immediate future.
Plan is to replace TREs, shocks, knuckle job, and maybe steering damper this off season. Hopefully that will improve the steering and ride. If anyone has any great tricks for getting the wheel bearing preload just right, would love to hear.
Oh, and a knuckle job is in my future. Like immediate future.
Plan is to replace TREs, shocks, knuckle job, and maybe steering damper this off season. Hopefully that will improve the steering and ride. If anyone has any great tricks for getting the wheel bearing preload just right, would love to hear.
