Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (10 Viewers)

[DangerNoodle]

Looks awesome!

Does it have pins to keep it concentric? Good idea making a jig to keep it aligned when machining!

You ended up running that bearing?

Where there's a will there's a way!

Ill have to measure my stuff when I get back. will be interesting to see how they compare!

No pins. I didn't really think about that. I guess those would have been pretty easy to add and would have been really good to keep stuff aligned. I'll do that next time I'm in there.

I did end up running the bearing, just as more of a security so I know that it was concentric. It all seems to spin as freely as a drivetrain can, so I am not too worried.

Do you have a rough idea how long your rear driveshaft is? Do you run a DC?

 

[DangerNoodle]

A few more pictures I forgot I had. The toybox shifts super smoothly. I really like it. It also just happened to locate itself in a really good position. I think I can still fit my cup holders in there and have access to the shifter. I'm happy with it.

I started on the radiator bracket, but it is going slow. Any recomendations on how to make the shroud?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Woah! You actually got the Toybox mated to the NV. Nice.
But now you are seeing the problems with duals/doublers. They're long.
If it's going to be on a trailer why didn't you just use the SM465

If you 4-link it and move that axle like a foot back, it won't need to be a trailer queen because you'll be able to get a 30-32" driveshaft in there
If you are going to stick with what you got and keep it short use the late-model U-joints, they have the same 4-bolt flanges as all the 60/80 stuff but have way more operating angle then the 40/60/80 Cruiser joints.
They're a little smaller but seem to be just as strong. I'm running them

Also, don't be afraid to make your own front driveshaft. Maybe the rear too, it probably won't even need to be balanced being that short!

Did you have your doubts?


I picked up some 60 series driveshafts. Do you know if the flanges will work with the 80 axles?

 

[cruisermatt]

Did you have your doubts?


I picked up some 60 series driveshafts. Do you know if the flanges will work with the 80 axles?

Yeah they would, what years are they for? If they're for 85-87 just sell them.
If you're going to be modding driveshafts go to your local pick-n-pull and get stuff from late-models, like 4runners, Tundra, Sequioa etc. They have the high-angle u-joints and flanges that will work with your axles.
You might even be able to find something that works off the shelf for your front DS, but I like to use heavy wall pipe for front shafts since it doesn't need to be balanced. My front DS is 2.5" Sch. 40 pipe, .200" wall, with late model Toyota yokes welded to it. works awesome for how cheap it is and takes a serious beating

 

[DangerNoodle]

Yeah they would, what years are they for? If they're for 85-87 just sell them.
If you're going to be modding driveshafts go to your local pick-n-pull and get stuff from late-models, like 4runners, Tundra, Sequioa etc. They have the high-angle u-joints and flanges that will work with your axles.
You might even be able to find something that works off the shelf for your front DS, but I like to use heavy wall pipe for front shafts since it doesn't need to be balanced. My front DS is 2.5" Sch. 40 pipe, .200" wall, with late model Toyota yokes welded to it. works awesome for how cheap it is and takes a serious beating

I'm not sure what year they are. I'll have to find out.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I stuffed the radiator and condenser in to verify fitment and spacing for the fan. It's tight, but fits well.

Tall and wide.

No issues with the outlet and fan wanting to meet.

The hood fits at least.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Finished getting the radiator mount done. I'm waiting to add supports as I am not sure where my shock hoops are going to be living yet.

Dryer barely clears the frame.

I got the sniper bolted down to the intake.

And I tossed on some @ToyotaMatt bling. It looks really good. Thanks, Matt!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Bling makes the TEq world go around

 

[DangerNoodle]

An update for the last few days.

I got the floor trimmed for the splitcase.

I'll barely need to adjust the hump to allow for coverage, and I will just recess the current fuel tank design to go above it.

No pictures, but I got the engine fully squared up to the frame, and tighened down for the last time, so I could work on getting the transmission and t-case mounted.

I built the rear crossmember that mounts to the toybox. It's fully removable, and I will be building a modular skidplate that mounts to it.

The bottom of the transfer case is right at 19 1/2" not the best, but it optimizes my ground clearance and rear driveshaft angle. The hump will be getting full 1/4" armor so I can drag it around on rocks without hurting it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That rear driveshaft is so short. I still can't get over it.

Cool build though man, keep it up.

 

[DangerNoodle]

That rear driveshaft is so short. I still can't get over it.

Cool build though man, keep it up.

It is, and I really hope that I can get away with it. IDK what I'm going to do if I start eating those up.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I spent a lot of the day getting the garage back to an acdeptable state today, along with a few small things.

With the help from my dad, I got the rear box and seats in.

I need to get the seats dyed and ready for final installation, but that will be for another day.

Spaghetti!

I had to wrangle the cat to stop him from chewing on wires.

I have all the runs laid out and labled, and have figured out most of the harness integration for the sniper, vintage air, and dakoda digital.

Now the fun begins....

 

[DangerNoodle]

Twin-stick part 2, electric boogaloo.

I'm using @orangefj45 's doubler kit for the split case. It went together well, but the H-N-L rod was just a bit short for this application. That was solved with an extra bit of tube I had lying around.

I really like that the blocks that are supplied are even, unlike the AA kits.

My only gripe is that all the holes seem slightly undersized for the shift levers, 2W-4W rod, and the piviots. A small bit of grinding on everything allowed for them to drop in, though.

Starting to modify the hump.

I decided to completley cut out and replace my PO's work with a wrench to bend the lip up. All the metal was streched, so it would have taken forever to move it back.

Done.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Boot installed.

Toybox shifter hole cut out.

Modifiying the tail to allow for the splitcase.

Welded up.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Removing cheese.

Started to fill.

Anyways, I'll try to get around and finish the rest soon.

 

[cruisermatt]

I would HIGHLY recommend enlarging the transmission tunnel hole around your NV4500 shifter. Mine was like that and when I had a motor mount going bad the plastic shift tower hitting the body was enough to pull all four of the M6 bolts out of the top cover, and I had even heli-coiled them, too. I since put steel thread inserts as a repair, but would hate to see you have to deal with it.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I would HIGHLY recommend enlarging the transmission tunnel hole around your NV4500 shifter. Mine was like that and when I had a motor mount going bad the plastic shift tower hitting the body was enough to pull all four of the M6 bolts out of the top cover, and I had even heli-coiled them, too. I since put steel thread inserts as a repair, but would hate to see you have to deal with it.

Good to know. I'll be sure to do that. How much spacing do you think is needed?

 

[cruisermatt]

Good to know. I'll be sure to do that. How much spacing do you think is needed?

it's really only the sides you have to open up, I'd give it at least an inch on each side to be safe. Also, if you don't already have a shift boot the FJ60 boot works really good

 

[DangerNoodle]

it's really only the sides you have to open up, I'd give it at least an inch on each side to be safe. Also, if you don't already have a shift boot the FJ60 boot works really good

I've been looking for one. Is the 60 boot a rubber one?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I was going to say the same thing that matt is about enlarging the trans shifter opening. The 60 inner and outer boots are rubber, yes.