Ugly Dwarf
SILVER Star
@cme4lyt, just noticed your question. I'm close by in Concord.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (137 Viewers)
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Painted my new BIOR bumper. I'm happy with the way it turned out.
I do most of my hanging out on the couch during covid. But I’m in knightsen
now that my 91 80 series is leak free and has a near clean bill of health at 219k miles, I've turned my attention back to driver creature comforts.
- new gauge cluster cover (old was cleaned with sandpaper by a previous owner and there was a dead spider in there that was pissing me off, previous owner had included it when bought the truck a few years ago)
- swapped out original gauge cluster and dash buttons lights for led
- vinyl wrapped the black/inner center section of the shift console, the original paint was a little rubbed through in places
- new steering console cover (old one was just wrecked, top piece no longer screwed to or snapped onto the bottom piece. Delta Vehicle Systems - Toyota OEM Steering Column Cover)
- replaced missing gas cap holder dealie within the gas door (never had it, used to set the cap on the rear bumper. Delta Vehicle Systems - Toyota OEM Fuel Door Parts)
- swapped in '93-'97 armrest and installed new leather (>'92 brown interior plastic is not as dark, so i want to try and match the color to the '91 sable/brown Land Cruiser Heaven Leather Center Console Cover | Land Cruiser Heaven)
- fender flare gaskets replaced (80 Series FENDER FLARE GASKET sets)
Very nice! I'm interested to learn how you went about the bulb -> LED swap.
For all that work I would have spent the 30 bucks and replaced those two hoses. Hopefully the heat shrink does the trick.Over the past couple of days I dropped and reinstalled the fuel tank, not a job I want to repeat. The need was to locate a fuel leak. A few weeks ago the 80 was filled with gas and while parked on a slight incline, facing up the slope, liquid fuel began leaking. Planning ahead I ordered new gaskets, fasteners, hoses (except for the two associated with vapor lines), fuel sock.
Dropped the tank and installed new gaskets, etc. Fuel had been leaking at the large hose connection on the tank, the hose clamp was loose and the hose old. Used a floor jack, a couple of jack stands, and a smart 16 year old and the installation was easier (but not easy) than I had expected.
I had overlooked ordering the two short hoses that connect to the top of the tank and mine were looking rough. Checked with local dealership and of course not in stock, but if ordered would be $15 each. I reused what I had. I decided to use heat shrink to "refresh"them. Not sure how this will hold up but I don't think they'll be splitting anytime soon.
View attachment 2533032View attachment 2533033View attachment 2533034View attachment 2533035,
What headlights are you running?
A brand new set of mirrors from Mr. T .......In black .
Alameda
So am I!
Depo
If they'd been in stock I would have spent the $$. Regional Toyota warehouse had none in stock and parts guy could not give me an ETA on delivery. They're not too difficult to access so I'll order some and replace.
it's a little time consuming and a little bit of guesswork, all-in-all not too bad. i should clarify that i only changed the bulbs that didn't require soldering. so hvac controls, cigarette lighter, clock were omitted. i'm guessing the '91 has fewer bulbs too, i counted at least a couple that my truck simply didn't have (keyring, glovebox). the only challenging part is making sure you have all the leds needed beforehand, i didn't have the tree "neowedge" style and so my gauge cluster was out a couple days while i waited to receive them from amazon, i just had to go with whatever was in stock. also, i didn't take any steps to color match the bulbs i replaced, ie. red/orange/green/blue and used all white leds in replace of them. the green and blue substituted for white is fine, nice rich coloration. orange will be more yellow (center diff lock) and red turns to pink. i would recommend at the least getting red leds where needed, the rest look crisp to me. final annoyance is that if the bulb doesn't light up, you have to reverse polarity, so you can count on 50% of your bulbs not working on the initial shot and i just ensured the light should be on (like door ajar light on) and reached around the backside while plugged in and flipped it around until it was lit. it's pretty tedious having to do this for some of the bulbs but then also i couldn't figure out how to get the trans overheat(?) bulb on to test, so i checked polarity on the e-brake light and moved the led into place-- so there's the guesswork i was mentioning. so long as you have the correct bulbs the rest is just not breaking old plastic trim pieces.
i came across a post somewhere around here where someone had dropped the necessary bulbs, so credit to that person. here is what they posted:
for my '91 it was a little different, but good enough-- antenna uses 2 (up, down) and in general these wedge type 8mm/10mm molds are horrible, had to do some trimming and persuasion to get seated properly, also note that on the dash buttons the bulb illuminates 360degrees like a candle, so when you switch to led they typically shine straight up and not out the translucent part of the button, so they are very dim. i might come back and address this by bending the led to shine out the correct direction, but that's a bit of time and risk breaking the wires (i attempted this initially and broke about 5 8mm wedge leds).
definitely going to come back and swap out to red cluster leds where they were replaced with white.
Good info. The answer seems evident, but I'll be that guy just to clarify.
Cell color represents color of LED needed and the number represents quantity needed?
Also, just swap bulbs and go? No need to put in-line resistors or anything with the difference in amperage?
This is excellent - thank you very much for sharing, @Lance Hayabusa!
SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
Nice clean looking cruiser...made me double take for a second look
yep, color of the led and quantity. so long as you have the correct bulb and polarity correct it is plug and play, no resistors necessary, the bulbs are designed to be their corresponding bulb replacement. i've converted all my exterior bulbs to led as well and the only thing where i had to do anything special was with the turn signal flashers, i had to get a relay to maintain the normal blink rate and i just swapped the guts of the led designed relay with the oem blinker relay housing (in the driver side kick panel-- have to desolder the piece that orientates the aftermarket relay prongs to be reversed)
‘‘Twas the night before Xmas, and all through the garage, only one creature was swearing over the patter of two tiny studs clattering to the cement floor far below.....time for a beer!!! Merry Xmas you old Land Cruiser!!”
noticed they were loose. Same ones that had the loose nuts. Both snapped with zero effort when I tried to back them out. #hangingbyathread
noticed they were loose. Same ones that had the loose nuts. Both snapped with zero effort when I tried to back them out. #hangingbyathread
SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
Disaster averted eh?
X2 on this. I just rebuilt all four of my calipers and had some pitting in the cylinder bores just like you. But that has nothing to do with the seal. My pistons were fine and that and the rubber seal ring are all that matter in terms of keeping brake fluid inside the calipers. I vote rebuild and go since you already have them apart. Your call though.
