Wheels that work, part numbers (1 Viewer)

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Finding wheels for the FJ60 was a pain! Thanks for everyone that’s posted here, it sure helped! I decided to go with the TRE Pro wheels! I didn’t want to use spacers and couldn't find the right back spacing. They are wrapped in 265/70/17 Toyo A/T 3. Had planned to go with 275/70/17 bfg ko2 but, it only gained 1/2 inch and were $55 more per tire.

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Went with some 17x9 wheels I got recently from a 'Mud member here.
They're 2.5" backspaced wheels, and while I cannot confirm 100%, I believe they're Cragar "Soft 8" models.

Put them onto a 4" hybrid OME/Bilstein lift, with stock TRE's and SOR HD steering arms. No interference what-so-ever.

I did this to get away from the FJC / Tundra 17x7.5 steelies, with -14mm offset, since I had to run a Spidertrax 1.25" wheelspacer to make this set-up work. I DID, fwiw, run 35"x12.5" E-load Geolandar g003's on those for 10K or so, and RARELY rubbed unless I was flexing off road really hard. Found these same tires on the new rims rubbed a bit more than I liked at 1/3rd turn uptravel, so I downsized to 33's and a softer D-load tire.
Here's a picture of that:
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I love the new wheels, and they sustained 1000+mi of abuse in DVNP a week or so ago with no hiccups or hernias.

Currently, the set up is:
17x9 custom-backspaced Cragar Soft 8's
33X12.5 General Grabber X3 M/T's

**HIGHLY recommend 2.5" backspace wheels... they're proper proud***

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The tricky part about d-windows is how they're made, as that can impact whether they scrub the calipers or not. Maybe you're ok with a little caliper grinding.

The 4" backspacing will work, but your rear sidewalls will be pretty close to the fender well when the axle flexes. Fronts should be fine.

The tires will end up inset from the well lip a little bit. 3.5BS @ 9" wide leaves them dead flush.
 
Do you have any reccomendation for a 17x9 with a 3.5 BS it seems like all the other ones recommended on here are no longer made and I just cant seem to find one. Is there a measurement I can find on the rim that would let me know if it would rub on the caliper or not? Thank you
 
They're getting tough to find for sure. They seem to pop in waves at Summit.

The crap part is that the same dimensions don't mean that they'll work. I had 17x9 with 3.5BS from two manufacturers; one cleared easily, the other was a hard crash on the caliper. Whatever you get, buy 1 to test fit before buying them all.

17x9 w/ 4.0BS and a 1/4" plate spacer would probably work and look pretty good. The 9" width helps 285+ tires out too.
 
Yeah that's what I'm finding, I just recently learned that my currents rims rub on my outer tie rod end when I try to make a hardish left. They are 17x9 with a 4.5 BS which is why I am thinking a 17x9 with a 4 inch backspacing would clear fine. Thank you for all your help.
 
I've got a set of the TRE Pro wheels coming in. I'm now looking for a set of 275/70R17 BFG TKO to go on them. Anyone that has these rims, what are you using for lug nuts?
 
If they are the factory TRD pro wheels you have to use the factory shank style lug nuts.

If they are the aftermarket TRD lookalikes I believe they use an acorn seat standard lug nut. Not 100% sure on that though.
 
They are the factory wheels. Are those the lug nuts with the flat face rather than the acorn?
 
They are the factory wheels. Are those the lug nuts with the flat face rather than the acorn?

you’ll need the shank style. I used ones from the current gen 4Runner but I think any from a truck with alloys wheels with the same bolt pattern should work (80, taco, 4Runner)
 
Recently picked up a '87 60. The stock wheels and old tires were chewed up, so I picked up a new-er set of wheels and tires (less than 800 miles on them).

Exact Wheel specs:
Wheel Size - 16x10
Offset: -25 mm
Backspace: 4.52


Measured lugs and center bore -- both matched up perfectly, but I didn't take into account the offset of the wheel when it wasn't on jack-stands. After attempting to take it for a spin, immediately the front outside tie rod partially shaved off part of the inner wheel. FUN TIMES!!

I'm wondering if a 1/4" spacer, a new ome heavy suspension kit, and possibly shaving a bit of the tie rod down might do the trick. ANY and ALL advice is welcome!!!

I'm not trying to jack anything up, and if need be, will reluctantly replace the 16" wheels for 17s to gain the necessary clearance. Just wondering if the suspension and 1/4 spacer might provide enough clearance. Currently the rubbing isn't bad enough to stop the wheels from moving, but is bad enough to take the top layer of paint clean off.
 
I'm wondering if a 1/4" spacer, a new ome heavy suspension kit, and possibly shaving a bit of the tie rod down might do the trick. ANY and ALL advice is welcome!!!

...Grind the wheel, if anything.
Don't mess with a TRE.

I'd sooner put a spacer on / longer lugs than grind an essential steering component.
 
...Grind the wheel, if anything.
Don't mess with a TRE.

I'd sooner put a spacer on / longer lugs than grind an essential steering component.
...Grind the wheel, if anything.
Don't mess with a TRE.

I'd sooner put a spacer on / longer lugs than grind an essential steering component.

disagree on grinding the wheel. While your TRE did a bit for you already it can throw the wheel out of balance. Try the 1/4” spacer and keep an eye on lug nut thread engagement.
 
I hear ya man, frustrating.....I waited the better part of a year hoping to get my black AE Alloy 100 order fulfilled. I even got through to one of the production guys at AE, he told me back then they were not discontinued but just limited production anymore. Ultimately they had to kill my order....those wheels were DC'd.

I considered those Level 8 Trackers as well. Ended up with 16x8 steel wagon wheels, black PC, perfect fit and BS, 285/75. IMO, that tire size looks fantastic on these wagons if you want the slightly bigger, less tall skinny look.
Do you have a part number for the wheels you ended up going with?
 
I’ve been following this thread and need help with wheel selection and tire sizing. I’d like to go with 17 inch wheels and Nitto Terra Grappler 285/75/17s (33.83” tall by 11.22” wide as advertised). These are the tires from my 74 bronco with really good tread left and I love how those ride (different story, but I’m going to 35x12.5 RTs on that truck). Right now on my 62 I have the original 15 inch wheels and 31’s. And around a 2.5” old man emu lift. the truck was already lifted when I bought if four years ago, but that was roughly the lift estimate in consulting w/ Georg and Tor who have both done work on it. So will this tire size fit without rubbing? And what do u guys think of these two wheel selections? (Links below). Also, these show 4.75” backspacing. I saw earlier in the thread that folks were talking about 3.5-3.75” BS, but can’t recall if that was on a 15” wheel. u guys thin these will work? And let me know if you think they don’t go with the look. I know it’s all personal opinion, but fire away.


and this wheel:

and picture of my rig so you can visualize.....thx
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I believe that the back spacing clearance issues are the tie rod ends for 15 inch wheels. 3.5 inch back spacing is about all you can get away with. As you go with the bigger diameter wheels you have more tie rod clearance and can run more back spacing.
I ran a 16x7 with 4" inch BS on my old cruiser then went to a 16x8 with 4.25" BS, I was running 315/75R16 tires. When it flexed the inside of the tires rubbed the rear wheel wells so I installed 1.25" aluminum bolt on spacers and had no issues.
The cruiser i have now isn't as big. I have 285/70R17 tires on 17x7 4runner OEM wheels they fit without spacers but were too "sucked in" for my taste. I put on 1.5" aluminum spacers to get the look I wanted.
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Most of the modern style wheels are designed for the newer vehicles the have a lot of back spacing. I do like the 17 inch wheel size do to more tire options and options for brake system upgrades using larger diameter rotors which is really the only way to get better stopping power, or should I say leverage, for larger heavier tires.
I think either of your wheel choices would look great.
 

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