NLXTACY
Wits' End
Oh and that “red bar” is just a Maxi-fuse holder
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Oh and that “red bar” is just a Maxi-fuse holder
Not all SP user's have them. I thought you didn't need fuses with this setup?
Figured you did!QPM circuit breaker is fed via fused (150A) power right at battery terminal. Breaker provides additional localized protection and ease of power disconnect.
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Yeah I talked to the Switch Pros engineer. He was specific about not placing it there on the 80 series due to heat. That’s where I was originally going to design a mounting bracket
I tried searching and didn't see too many threads on the 80 Forum for different Switch Pros installs. Seems to be much more popular in the 100 & 200 Groups! I did see @synapse setup, curious if you have more pictures or details of your setup. Did you make that mounting plate?
Don't know why the SP engineer would say that? It's rated for 125C (NOT *F) and has internal temp sensor. We have done extensive testing in up to 110*F ambient and seen only as high as 125*F as a max. There should be NO temp issues with it mounted there.
edit: a word
I have a terminal block on my SP for ease of wiring and ease of upgrades and alteration in the future. No specific electrical reason it's required - to be completely honest, low temp solder heat shrink butt splices would actually form a more reliable connection but would have to be cut apart to change anything.
I'll admit, I'm pretty OCD with this stuff. Years working with marine wiring and tracing problems taught me the value of being able to disconnect and reconnect components without trashing the system.Cool. That makes sense. I like how clean it all looks when the wires are all inside a loom. But versatility and flexibility are definitely important too.
I'll admit, I'm pretty OCD with this stuff. Years working with marine wiring and tracing problems taught me the value of being able to disconnect and reconnect components without trashing the system.
Installing a terminal block and bus bar now may cost me an extra $30 bucks, but it's priceless if I ever have to fix the system in the bush, in the dark, in the rain, in 33 degrees in a wind storm. Nothing ever breaks on a sunny day afternoon in my driveway.
1. Lots of different places to get this inside, kind of depends on what you have wired up already. Good idea is to make something you can add to over time, if you plan to install more things. In my personal ride, I have a ignition hot wire triggering a relay that powers a BlueSea fuse block, so I have tons of things that can then be easily wired to be ignition hot.@HIteq @synapse @Feldrian @NLXTACY AND everyone else in the know!
I am a total electrical noob! Part of my motivation for this SP Unit! Please excuse these possible silly questions....
- For the 12V Ignition Wire (Light Blue): Did you run this into the cabin of the truck? The only real 12V switch fuse under the hood looks like the EFI. Not sure I want to mess with that.
- For the Lights Wire (White Wire):
- Can you just tap into the parking lights?
- Is the Vampire connector they included the best thing to really use?
- I have a set of lights I want to hook up. They came with a complete wiring harness (relay, fuses, switch, etc) it is all connected. My understanding is that I can bypass all of that and just use the hot and ground wires for each light and run the hot to the SP unit. No relays or fuses needed, correct?
- Just curious if you pulled the switch wiring into the cabin through grommets 1, 2 or 3? What is the best way to keep this as water resistant as possible?