NLXTACY
Wits' End
Oh and that “red bar” is just a Maxi-fuse holder
Calling all Switch Pros Users!!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NorCalFJ100
- Start date
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NorCalFJ100
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- Thread starter
- #22
Not all SP user's have them. I thought you didn't need fuses with this setup?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
the switch pros itself must be fused, but as close to the battery as possible. That piece also appears to be used as a distribution block as well.
Yeah, a fuse or breaker should be mounted near the battery. I wouldn't run the breaker in the rear qp without some other type of wire protection. Lots of options in the car audio world.
I've always envisioned a plug n play fuse block that mounts by the right side battery with potted bus bars and a true block that is rated for the heat and can be submerged. I'm sure one is looking at $100ish in parts to do it + switches.
I've always envisioned a plug n play fuse block that mounts by the right side battery with potted bus bars and a true block that is rated for the heat and can be submerged. I'm sure one is looking at $100ish in parts to do it + switches.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I’m sure the feed cable is fused at the battery as well.
I looked at several different options and the absolute ease of install, plug-n-play nature, and massive amounts of customizations/control via its app, nothing I could make or buy would compete.
I looked at several different options and the absolute ease of install, plug-n-play nature, and massive amounts of customizations/control via its app, nothing I could make or buy would compete.
Yeah, i don't think there is actually a true plug and play aftermarket wiring of anything. Switch pros does have a nice interface, but a hefty price tag. It's mounting the switches that are a pain, not wiring it.
QPM circuit breaker is fed via fused (150A) power right at battery terminal. Breaker provides additional localized protection and ease of power disconnect.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Figured you did!
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
Yeah I talked to the Switch Pros engineer. He was specific about not placing it there on the 80 series due to heat. That’s where I was originally going to design a mounting bracket
Don't know why the SP engineer would say that? It's rated for 125C (NOT *F) and has internal temp sensor. We have done extensive testing in up to 110*F ambient and seen only as high as 125*F as a max. There should be NO temp issues with it mounted there.
edit: a word
@NorCalFJ100 Yes, simple plate and bracket made. Though not sure you want to use mine as reference as I'm RHD, so this area is where your brake master cylinder/ fluid reservoir are...
@Delta VS as shown above mine is in the same general area and have had no issues with heat for exactly 2yrs 1wk
Exhaust side of the engine bay may be a different story.
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #31
Can of you fine 80 owners explain to me why I need or the pros/cons of using a busbar AND screw terminal block?
Is it simply just so you can connect each one of the power wires from the SP unit to each terminal block to make it easier to swap or change accessories?
Sorry, totally new to electrical...hence the reason I forked over the cash for the simplified Switch Pros System.
Is it simply just so you can connect each one of the power wires from the SP unit to each terminal block to make it easier to swap or change accessories?
Sorry, totally new to electrical...hence the reason I forked over the cash for the simplified Switch Pros System.
I have a terminal block on my SP for ease of wiring and ease of upgrades and alteration in the future. No specific electrical reason it's required - to be completely honest, low temp solder heat shrink butt splices would actually form a more reliable connection but would have to be cut apart to change anything.
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
I have power coming in to a bus bar where I feed to the SP, ARB compressor and a secondary fuse panel. If your just hooking up a SP the bus bar doesn't add utility. Again, it makes future upgrades easier and improves flexibility.
NorCalFJ100
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- Thread starter
- #35
Cool. That makes sense. I like how clean it all looks when the wires are all inside a loom. But versatility and flexibility are definitely important too.
I'll admit, I'm pretty OCD with this stuff. Years working with marine wiring and tracing problems taught me the value of being able to disconnect and reconnect components without trashing the system.
Installing a terminal block and bus bar now may cost me an extra $30 bucks, but it's priceless if I ever have to fix the system in the bush, in the dark, in the rain, in 33 degrees in a wind storm. Nothing ever breaks on a sunny day afternoon in my driveway.
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
I'll admit, I'm pretty OCD with this stuff. Years working with marine wiring and tracing problems taught me the value of being able to disconnect and reconnect components without trashing the system.
Installing a terminal block and bus bar now may cost me an extra $30 bucks, but it's priceless if I ever have to fix the system in the bush, in the dark, in the rain, in 33 degrees in a wind storm. Nothing ever breaks on a sunny day afternoon in my driveway.
True story! Do you have pictures of your setup?
I have it torn down at the moment - I'll post some pics when it's back together though.
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
@HIteq @synapse @Feldrian @NLXTACY AND everyone else in the know!
I am a total electrical noob! Part of my motivation for this SP Unit! Please excuse these possible silly questions....
I am a total electrical noob! Part of my motivation for this SP Unit! Please excuse these possible silly questions....
- For the 12V Ignition Wire (Light Blue): Did you run this into the cabin of the truck? The only real 12V switch fuse under the hood looks like the EFI. Not sure I want to mess with that.
- For the Lights Wire (White Wire):
- Can you just tap into the parking lights?
- Is the Vampire connector they included the best thing to really use?
- I have a set of lights I want to hook up. They came with a complete wiring harness (relay, fuses, switch, etc) it is all connected. My understanding is that I can bypass all of that and just use the hot and ground wires for each light and run the hot to the SP unit. No relays or fuses needed, correct?
- Just curious if you pulled the switch wiring into the cabin through grommets 1, 2 or 3? What is the best way to keep this as water resistant as possible?
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Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
1. Lots of different places to get this inside, kind of depends on what you have wired up already. Good idea is to make something you can add to over time, if you plan to install more things. In my personal ride, I have a ignition hot wire triggering a relay that powers a BlueSea fuse block, so I have tons of things that can then be easily wired to be ignition hot.
2. Recommend skipping that one, no real need for it, as all it does is turn the lights on the switch down a notch when the headlights get turned on. Reality is, the backlighting does no good during the day, so just put the backlighting to a intensity that works well at night. This way you have an extra signal wire that can be used to trigger back up lights, etc.
3. That is correct
4. We like to bring them through the grommet above the pedals
