How'd you fix that leak?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (80 Viewers)
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On top of an unanticipated timing belt and water pump service (was first done at 100k, now again at 130k) because the previous owner put some sh*# parts from amazon in ($1500 at Lexus, it was an emergency, had to bring it back twice, once because it was blowing coolant all over the engine bay and second because they clipped a transmission coolant return line on reinstall which let go and left me stranded). I have put some serious money and done some serious maintenance on the Landy.
It all started because I needed to do rotors. The fronts have always had vibration (warped) but the rear pads where on their last legs so it was time.
If you haven’t done these before, it’s not fun. To do a front brake job you need tear down the hub, so you will need to repack the bearings on the reinstall. might as well replace them inner and outer, I did. We came to the conclusion that the front calipers were hanging up. So instead of doing a rebuild kit, I bought new ones. I wouldn’t suggest going through Toyota for these $$, I was lucky and was able to get them ridiculously cheap through my mechanic. I don’t think I would of been comfortable with doing the front set up on my own, with the bearings and seals and setting the preload it’s a lot.
The rear brakes were fairly straight forward, we just did rotors and pads, calipers were not hanging up on the rear.
Just a quick FYI, you need to activate the ABS
motor with a scan tool to properly bleed the brakes.
However, during rear brake replacement my buddy found the driver side bearing was clicking and binding. I figured ok, no sweat, I’ll get some new bearings throw them in next week. Wrong. I won’t get into how much work was involved, but my guy had to fabricate two tools to get the bearing free and it took all 20 tons of his press to get them out.
Put some new sway bar links in and turned the torsion bars a few.
These trucks aren’t the easiest to work on, but they clearly have very durable build quality.
We were also able to virtually eliminate the drive line clunk by using a pneumatic grease gun. But also discovered the clunk generated from pulling away from a stop were from the calipers sticking.
It all started because I needed to do rotors. The fronts have always had vibration (warped) but the rear pads where on their last legs so it was time.
If you haven’t done these before, it’s not fun. To do a front brake job you need tear down the hub, so you will need to repack the bearings on the reinstall. might as well replace them inner and outer, I did. We came to the conclusion that the front calipers were hanging up. So instead of doing a rebuild kit, I bought new ones. I wouldn’t suggest going through Toyota for these $$, I was lucky and was able to get them ridiculously cheap through my mechanic. I don’t think I would of been comfortable with doing the front set up on my own, with the bearings and seals and setting the preload it’s a lot.
The rear brakes were fairly straight forward, we just did rotors and pads, calipers were not hanging up on the rear.
Just a quick FYI, you need to activate the ABS
motor with a scan tool to properly bleed the brakes.
However, during rear brake replacement my buddy found the driver side bearing was clicking and binding. I figured ok, no sweat, I’ll get some new bearings throw them in next week. Wrong. I won’t get into how much work was involved, but my guy had to fabricate two tools to get the bearing free and it took all 20 tons of his press to get them out.
Put some new sway bar links in and turned the torsion bars a few.
These trucks aren’t the easiest to work on, but they clearly have very durable build quality.
We were also able to virtually eliminate the drive line clunk by using a pneumatic grease gun. But also discovered the clunk generated from pulling away from a stop were from the calipers sticking.
Some more pictures
Some more
Spacers.
Got some window visors off amazon and then came in flimsy and fitting like crap, but I should have known for $28. Returned them and with a recommendation off mud I went with WELLVisors. These things are built soo much better. Fit and finish was spot on.
Drove it on some rocks. Really fun day in Tennessee with another mudder in an LX and 2 4Runners.
Slammed my back end on a rock the size of a hot tub and tweaked the plastic and the bracketry inside. Oh well, I guess I have to buy a tire carrier bumper now... Darn. Shucks. Fiddlesticks.
(yesssssss!)
Slammed my back end on a rock the size of a hot tub and tweaked the plastic and the bracketry inside. Oh well, I guess I have to buy a tire carrier bumper now... Darn. Shucks. Fiddlesticks.
(yesssssss!)
Yup. Here is the link for the TFD70W20 NML75-8399-113. This is the lcd/digitizer in one unit for the 2002 Navigation equipped LX, should work for any year 98-02. 03-up has a separate digitizer from the LCD.
Got my Rock Warriors with 285/70 Falken Wildpeak AT3W mounted up. Running the Slee/Spidertrax 1.25" spacers up front.
Heard a little rubbing when turning both ways, so did some investigating and looks like a pinch weld mod will be in my future.
Heard a little rubbing when turning both ways, so did some investigating and looks like a pinch weld mod will be in my future.
I pulled the air intake and passenger side cover to inspect my timing belt. 1/4 banana job and we'll worth the few minutes it took. My LC is just under 201,000 and I haven't been able to find any service records of it being changed. Much to my surprise it looks new. No wear and not a crack in it. In fact the line up marks are still visible. I'm considering leaving it alone and investing the $300 else where for the time being.
The ARB did fine. It was the back bumper that didn't.Get a proper bumper with good departure angle instead of a plain old ARB
Yea, somethings like that is my concern. I'm going to go ahead and change it. I may do my radiator first though since it's definitely original and has turned brown.
Pull air intake, drain radiator, remove water inlet housing. Lost a cup or two of coolant because I didn't drain the block.
Clean all surfaces with emery cloth/barrel brush, apply correct FIPG (08826-00100) and a new o-ring (96761-35035), torque to spec (13 ft/lb).
I waited a few hours to add coolant, may not be necessary.
CO-5 to CO-9 in the FSM has parts diagrams and more detailed instructions, @2001LC 's thread has some excellent pictures and instructions as well: Coolant leak at water inlet and...
This would be a good time to change the thermostat and gasket, if needed, and clean the throttle body. HTH
The timing job is a little easier with the radiator out of the way. If nothing's going to explode in the next couple of months, consider buying the parts piecemeal and doing it all at once. And it might not be necessary, but doing the brushes in the alternator "while you're in there" is another reasonably inexpensive PM. That job is definitely easier with the rad out of the way.
Did a couple things over the weekend.
Replaced the gasket in the evap, unfortunately this has not totally fixed my drip. It significantly reduced it but I noticed two small drops after an hour or so in the car with AC on blast. As others have said, the screws may not be sufficient to hold the pieces together tightly, either way even though it still drips it is a big reduction.
I also installed my @TrekboxX tailgate cover. Perfect fit, looks great, will definitely age better than the old carpet. I was worried I was going to over-tighten and bust the well nuts during install, called David, he picked up and walked me thought exactly what I needed to do. Great product, great guy.
old man approved
Replaced the gasket in the evap, unfortunately this has not totally fixed my drip. It significantly reduced it but I noticed two small drops after an hour or so in the car with AC on blast. As others have said, the screws may not be sufficient to hold the pieces together tightly, either way even though it still drips it is a big reduction.
I also installed my @TrekboxX tailgate cover. Perfect fit, looks great, will definitely age better than the old carpet. I was worried I was going to over-tighten and bust the well nuts during install, called David, he picked up and walked me thought exactly what I needed to do. Great product, great guy.
old man approved
A lot on the new (to me) 99 LC with 273K on the clock. Hope to get another 200K out of her now.
Both CV Axles
New Radiator & Hoses
Thermostat & Gasket
Heater Ts
Radiator Cap
Front & Rear Rotors & Shoes
Front Wheel Bearings
WheelSkinz Steering Wheel Cover
Okole Front Seat Covers
Coolant Flush > Toyota Red Fill
Transmission & Tcase Drain and Fill> Wits End Drain Plugs
Front & Rear Diff Drain & Fill > Wits End Drain Plugs
Brake Fluid Flush
Both CV Axles
New Radiator & Hoses
Thermostat & Gasket
Heater Ts
Radiator Cap
Front & Rear Rotors & Shoes
Front Wheel Bearings
WheelSkinz Steering Wheel Cover
Okole Front Seat Covers
Coolant Flush > Toyota Red Fill
Transmission & Tcase Drain and Fill> Wits End Drain Plugs
Front & Rear Diff Drain & Fill > Wits End Drain Plugs
Brake Fluid Flush
@DragoISAR helped me finish up my solar set up.
100 Watt Renogy panel and Victron SmartSolar controller. Finished as the sun was setting so I will report back with results tomorrow
Update: direct sun yielded me 76 watts @ 5amps. Engel fridge manual shows .5 - 2.5 amps/hr. So very satisfied with this
100 Watt Renogy panel and Victron SmartSolar controller. Finished as the sun was setting so I will report back with results tomorrow
Update: direct sun yielded me 76 watts @ 5amps. Engel fridge manual shows .5 - 2.5 amps/hr. So very satisfied with this
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Off to powder
J
J
