Builds Land Cruiser Products scores another turbo 80 (2 Viewers)

[mickeyt]

2019 is off to another interesting start for LCP. Found another unicorn parts runner by being at the right place at the right time. We scored a 1991 HDJ80L powered by a 1HDT with an automatic trans with a poptop and the roof is already cut, how cool is that. Im loving the power of the diesel behind the auto. The bonus is the steering wheel is on the correct side. The interior is an empty slate with nothing but two Recaro seats.

Now what course do we take going forward with the build?

where did you find it?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Check my turbo build linked in my signature for more pics of pyro install.
Lots of guys drill and tap the manifold for a pyro without removing the turbo

If you are going to sink money into another toyota turbo diesel engine, forget the 1HZ. It's a good engine in its own right, but a poor second choice at best for a turbo diesel.

1hz is indirect injection, so combustion starts in the pre combustion chamber, not the cylinder and puts a lot of heat in the head.
Turbo 1hz Achilles heal is the head.

HD-T is far more efficient, and will out perform a 1HZ-T

Running a hz-t at low boost (6psi) is a mistake. Rich AFR means high combustion temps.
Additional boost, and additional airflow reduces combustion temps.
HD-T and Hz motors can cope with a lot of boost. (Later versions of Hz, had lighter duty pistons and are less tolerant of a turbo)
It's high combustion temps that kill them

 

[IanB]

It's weird, but running more boost = cooler combustion = safer, it's the opposite of gas engines. Add the boost and EGT gauges, turn the boost up to 15psi, and enjoy better power, cooler engine, and better economy.

With the boost gauge added, you'll see that it runs 10psi at 100km/h, so if you want to go any faster you are adding more fuel and more heat.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Check my turbo build linked in my signature for more pics of pyro install.
Lots of guys drill and tap the manifold for a pyro without removing the turbo

If you are going to sink money into another toyota turbo diesel engine, forget the 1HZ. It's a good engine in its own right, but a poor second choice at best for a turbo diesel.

1hz is indirect injection, so combustion starts in the pre combustion chamber, not the cylinder and puts a lot of heat in the head.
Turbo 1hz Achilles heal is the head.

HD-T is far more efficient, and will out perform a 1HZ-T

Running a hz-t at low boost (6psi) is a mistake. Rich AFR means high combustion temps.
Additional boost, and additional airflow reduces combustion temps.
HD-T and Hz motors can cope with a lot of boost. (Later versions of Hz, had lighter duty pistons and are less tolerant of a turbo)
It's high combustion temps that kill them

Check my turbo build linked in my signature for more pics of pyro install.
Lots of guys drill and tap the manifold for a pyro without removing the turbo

If you are going to sink money into another toyota turbo diesel engine, forget the 1HZ. It's a good engine in its own right, but a poor second choice at best for a turbo diesel.

1hz is indirect injection, so combustion starts in the pre combustion chamber, not the cylinder and puts a lot of heat in the head.
Turbo 1hz Achilles heal is the head.

HD-T is far more efficient, and will out perform a 1HZ-T

Running a hz-t at low boost (6psi) is a mistake. Rich AFR means high combustion temps.
Additional boost, and additional airflow reduces combustion temps.
HD-T and Hz motors can cope with a lot of boost. (Later versions of Hz, had lighter duty pistons and are less tolerant of a turbo)
It's high combustion temps that kill them

I was told the new HZ short blocks have piston skirt oiler (maybe wrong term) that make them a better set up. Are you familiar with the new HZ short blocks?

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Factory sticker in English even thou they were never in the USA and everything else is in German

View attachment 1895085

It's because they know how us Americans like to drive. s*** n git Sally, shifting gears and drinking beers. Not really lol

 

[OGBeno]

I was told the new HZ short blocks have piston skirt oiler (maybe wrong term) that make them a better set up. Are you familiar with the new HZ short blocks?

11400-17120. Available through your Toyota dealer. And yes, they have accommodation for a front heater (coolant fittings) and the oil cooler jets.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I was told the new HZ short blocks have piston skirt oiler (maybe wrong term) that make them a better set up. Are you familiar with the new HZ short blocks?

As far as I know, all the Hz have the oil squirters to cool the pistons.
'98 onward HZ used in 105series and 7x series had a lighter piston. Turboing them is widely regarded to be creating a time bomb.

Some light reading on the pitfalls of turboing a 105series HZ here LCOOL.org :: Log in

 

[mudgudgeon]

It's weird, but running more boost = cooler combustion = safer, it's the opposite of gas engines.

100%

If you're new to diesels, first most of what you know about tuning an engine. Diesel is opposite.
Rich equals more power, but high combustion temerature
Lean equals cool combustion, and lower power.
Power is governed by how much fuel you can efficiently burn.
Boost is your friend. Boost lets you stuff in more fuel, because you have more air to burn the fuel, and more air keeping things cool

 

[Lumpskie]

I hate my f***in pyrometer.

I did too until a few weeks ago... PDI rocks!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Need an EGT gauge recommendation from the diesel guys.

Getting ready to do a 7° grade test run pulling our boat. In the past, I have used our LX470 and with a VVTi it uses all the power it has to offer. After pulling the boat around the hood it feels strong and thinking the diesel may out pull the VVTi.

The water temp gauge was running about at the 2:30 o'clock mark and for a gas 80 this is unacceptable but for the diesel, I was not sure. A check into the cooling system shows it was in need of maintenance. Drained the nasty out, did a radiator flush, dropped in some Toyota blood, and a radiator fin cleaning. You cannot get the diesel up to full operating temp just sitting you must drive it. Living in AZ this is not the norm. After the maintenance, its back running at the normal 3 o'clock. This morning after a few miles run for breakfast it didn't reach full operating temp. The new norm is weird but loving the diesel powerplant.

The HDJ80 has received an upgrade in the parking.

 

[IanB]

Here's the one I use, with the green bulb condom to match the factory gauges:

Vision Black 1600°F Pyrometer with Sender and Harness, 12V | Pyrometer | By Type | Instruments, Displays and Clusters | VDO Instruments and Accessories

Vision Black 1600°F Pyrometer with Sender and Harness, 12V

www.vdo-gauges.com

I use the matching boost and trans temp gauges as well.

For towing in the hills, you'll really want to bring your boost level up to 15psi as it will help immensely with power and keeping EGT's low. You don't seem real keen on this idea from your responses in this thread.

 

[RFB]

that truck is sweet.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

ISSpro for any gauge is my recommendation. The Acura dual gauge pod with slight mod works great on A pillar.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Here's the one I use, with the green bulb condom to match the factory gauges:

Vision Black 1600°F Pyrometer with Sender and Harness, 12V | Pyrometer | By Type | Instruments, Displays and Clusters | VDO Instruments and Accessories

Vision Black 1600°F Pyrometer with Sender and Harness, 12V

www.vdo-gauges.com

I use the matching boost and trans temp gauges as well.

For towing in the hills, you'll really want to bring your boost level up to 15psi as it will help immensely with power and keeping EGT's low. You don't seem real keen on this idea from your responses in this thread.

Thanks for the EGT link.

You are correct on my feeling on increasing the boost. Im relatively new to the diesel and for me its baby steps. Not to say it will never but just not today.

 

[SHREDwagon]

Need an EGT gauge recommendation from the diesel guys.

You will need EGT, Boost and ATF gauges at a minimum by the time you're through. Tuning will become more important once you get familiar with the engine - requiring proper gauges. Might as well do it right the first time and go with a solution that allows these future add-ons.

 

[cowboyjack]

I run ISSPRO in the F350. Love ‘em. EGT, Boost and Tranny Temp. Plus a KOSO water temp. I like the color band on the egt in case someone less familiar with the 7.3 drives my truck.

ISSPRO.com - Quality Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers and more!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I see the need for EGT and trans temp but any good reason to monitor boost?

 

[cowboyjack]

Mainly it’s fun to watch !!!

It is useful if you want to spin up the turbo before launching. OR, a quick indicator if something is wrong with the turbo.

For a Cruiser? I’d reckon most of the world runs the turbo diesel with no gauges at all....

I see the need for EGT and trans temp but any good reason to monitor boost?

 

[IanB]

I see the need for EGT and trans temp but any good reason to monitor boost?

It's primarily for tuning, but it's also very eye opening to see what's really going on in certain situations vs. what you assumed was going on, and the relationship between boost and EGT. Also handy for diagnosing issues, but it's the EGT you will end up watching the most.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I use VDO EGT gauges. It's really important to have the pyro in the manifold pre-turbo, not after the turbo. EGTs drop significantly as gas passes through the turbine, but the drop in temp is not linear. This means post turbo egt readings are inaccurate and unreliable.
Typically, 700c is considered a safe max EGT for your engine for extended high load, high EGT climbs etc.
My opinion and experience, you can extend this to 750c . I personally ran mine up to 850c with short duration spikes up to 900c.

Boost gauge is not really necessary. It is a good tuning tool, and helps you understand the relationship with boost, load, and EGTs.

If towing, and EGTs start to climb, downshift ASAP.
these engines are happy to rev hard all day.
Labouring the engine in a high load, low RPM situation will push EGTs up. In this scenario, you are dumping in lots of fuel, but not as much airflow. The AFR gets richer, combustion temps go up.

If your water temp gauge is moving, you have a problem, period!

Only time I saw my water temp go up on mine was on a 42c day, pushing really hard up a long winding mountain pass.