Let's hear it...things you would NEVER do again or do differently. (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter flintknapper
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I'm curious why you feel this way. I just did my front rotors and simply repacked bearings.
Pyrenees
SILVER Star
These are literally the ones I just bought, 2001 LX 470. Same seller and price.
The 2-vol set, they said it was new. Vol 2 was indeed new, Vol 1 looked like it had been touched once or twice but nothing aside from cosmetic stuff.
2001 Lexus LX 470 Shop Manual 2 Volume Set New Original Repair Service LX470 OEM | eBay
The EWD I got from this guy was new.
2001 Lexus LX 470 Wiring Diagrams Schematics Layout Factory OEM 602693829359 | eBay
The 2-vol set, they said it was new. Vol 2 was indeed new, Vol 1 looked like it had been touched once or twice but nothing aside from cosmetic stuff.
2001 Lexus LX 470 Shop Manual 2 Volume Set New Original Repair Service LX470 OEM | eBay
The EWD I got from this guy was new.
2001 Lexus LX 470 Wiring Diagrams Schematics Layout Factory OEM 602693829359 | eBay
It really was a lot of fun and I came away with a ton of respect for the vehicle. A locked Wrangler and one of those RZR things failed on the obstacle after I got over it. A week later, my buddy that had the locked Wrangler sold it and bought a 100 series. Capable and comfortable - can't be beat.
Because of the welds, or because of the sliders?
Honestly I wish there was a couple cheaper kits designed for our trucks that were weld-on. I have zero issues welding them on, in fact I think I prefer it and I know it would save me and the designer/manufacturers money.
Would you have liked that kit better if you powder coated it so it didnt rust? My buddy has them (i assume they are the same cheap ones on amazon) for his GX470 and they fit well and look good, tbh.
I'm not sure why weld on sliders would be cheaper than bolt on. Same amount of material with likely similar mounting locations. The weldons would just not have the U bolt and maybe a slightly shorter foot print....
The one main benefit of bolt on is that you can paint them a whole lot easier.
My opinion is that powdercoat on a slider is not ideal, unless you plan to use the sliders as steps, and not as sliders. Powdercoating a slider that will be welded on, is also not a great idea... you will need to leave a seam a good distance away from the weld, so it doesn't burn, and now you have an area for water to creep in, sort of defeating the purpose.
I found a used set for my 99 on ebay, but looking back, I would have just downloaded the pdf that is easily available on mud and had it printed at a print shop. I just did that for my 97 FZJ80 and it cost $30 vs $100...
U bolts are 100 bucks from the vendor I saw recently that makes 100 series sliders. Plus it should be easier/cheaper to design and sell a "100 series slider" that I have to do some welding on and actually is made for the 100 series but isnt fully put together and prepped for bolting on.
What else is the 300+ percent increase in price coming from between the "100 series" sliders and a generic? I presume its time and the ubolts, no?
50 bucks for 4 of them:
Replacement Hardware Kit 100 Series Land Cruiser/LX470 Sliders
The sliders that are vehicle specific do a better shop of protecting the entire body between the wheels... where the generic sliders are going to protect "most" of that area. There have been a few threads on here where guys with the generic sliders still do body damage near the front and back of the generic sliders.
hoser
SILVER Star
Which generic sliders are you referring to?
Trail Gear.
Listen I am not trumpeting something here as fantastic and I am not trying to start a debate itt, but theres a few threads on here with good results and I have seen them work in person. Plus they are DOM.
Literally 220 bucks vs 700+. I have zero issues paying for quality, god knows I have too much expensive crap laying around my house. But I'm having trouble understanding the 300%+ markup.
hoser
SILVER Star
No, I'm only asking to help you decide if it is worth it or not.
The Trail-Gear sliders I think you have in mind come in 67" and 78". The 67" is too short, IMO, and the 78" is too long. I recommend shortening the 78" to suit. My sliders are constructed of 2x3, 3/16" for the main tube and 1.75" .120 DOM outer tube. No major dents on main tube. Many small dents on outer tube. I'm guessing 1.75" x .120 (as TG is using) on the main tube might do okay for moderate wheeling.
The WKOR sliders are $670. The TG 78" sliders are $270... so $400 difference. Everybody has a different idea of what their labor is worth. So, take a guess of how many hours to shorten the sliders and weld to the frame. $400 divided by your labor hours and you'll have your answer.
I realize this is not an exact comparison as the WKOR sliders don't magically get installed. However, the WKOR main tube is 3/16" rectangle vs .120 tube for the TG's. So, the WKOR end product will be more robust.
P.S. I don't mean to be a d*** but $220 plus 300% markup is $880, not $700.
The Trail-Gear sliders I think you have in mind come in 67" and 78". The 67" is too short, IMO, and the 78" is too long. I recommend shortening the 78" to suit. My sliders are constructed of 2x3, 3/16" for the main tube and 1.75" .120 DOM outer tube. No major dents on main tube. Many small dents on outer tube. I'm guessing 1.75" x .120 (as TG is using) on the main tube might do okay for moderate wheeling.
The WKOR sliders are $670. The TG 78" sliders are $270... so $400 difference. Everybody has a different idea of what their labor is worth. So, take a guess of how many hours to shorten the sliders and weld to the frame. $400 divided by your labor hours and you'll have your answer.
I realize this is not an exact comparison as the WKOR sliders don't magically get installed. However, the WKOR main tube is 3/16" rectangle vs .120 tube for the TG's. So, the WKOR end product will be more robust.
P.S. I don't mean to be a d*** but $220 plus 300% markup is $880, not $700.
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sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Things I would not do again: Sign up for IH8MUD. You guys have cost me thousands of $$$$. 
Replacing an axle without also replacing the axle seal, when I actually had the axle seal in hand. The new axle clip was so tight, I had to pay someone to pull the axle and replace the seal after it leaked.
What I won't do again:
* Not replace the sway bar bushings when I had the torsion bars out.
* AHC swap on a rusted truck in my driveway, under the rain
* check real time data with torque app during a road trip
* Not replace the sway bar bushings when I had the torsion bars out.
* AHC swap on a rusted truck in my driveway, under the rain
* check real time data with torque app during a road trip
Oh my...where do I start???
- Wheeling too hard - Serious body damage - Shoulda just chilled a bit
- Trying to follow 80's with 37's
- Not upgrading the front diff
- Replacing the OEM seats with Recaro (or whatever they were)
- etc
Nick
- Wheeling too hard - Serious body damage - Shoulda just chilled a bit
- Trying to follow 80's with 37's
- Not upgrading the front diff
- Replacing the OEM seats with Recaro (or whatever they were)
- etc
Nick
Pyrenees
SILVER Star
Is torque inaccurate or something? I've used dashcommand up until now. Will probably just use techstream now that you guys helped me figure it out,haha.
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