Keep it or Return it? 1999 LC with 93K Miles (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 27, 2007
Threads
21
Messages
171
Location
SoCal
Wow. It's been years since I've needed help here. I am an old newbie, having a '98 and '03 LC before (those are gone...kids.), and loved all the prior help and support.

I bought a '99 LC with 93K miles for $23K from a Southern California dealer with a 5 day, 250 mile return policy. I am in that window now. It has a very good Carfax report, strong maintenance history (oil changes, timing belt/waterpump at about 77K miles, etc done at Toyota dealer in Southern CA). So it has lived its life in So Cal.

I have been looking for a new 100 series (pre built in Nav system, so a '98 to '01) since my earlier cruisers went away two years ago. We all know the market got crazy, and has cooled a bit, but nice 100s still fetch $25K and up on Bring A Trailer (with some going over $50K for low miles and in showroom condition.

Upon reviewing this LC at the dealer I knew that the radiator was in bad shape (plastic top well browned, and it had green fluid), hood struts both failed, original wheels had been chromed (I don't know if they ever came that way), with chrome pealing, and 25 years of curb rash etc., and rusty rotors, and what appeared as some oil leakage.

This is a no negotiation type place, but I did bring that up to sales manager, who listened, and said she would consider lowering the price if it didn't sell to someone else over the weekend, or I could buy it, take it and have it inspected and return it if I didn't like what I found. I obviously was swayed by the low milage.

The good news:
1. One owner Southern California Land Cruiser per Carfax.
2. No Rust
3. All electronics, radio/speakers, door locks, windows, sunroof work well, headliner in great shape.
4. Two full remote key fobs that function properly
5. Straight body, hood, etc.
6. Drives, shifts well. No weird humming or vibrations, shifts in and out of high to low.
7. Dealer did an adequate full repaint with to repair oxidation of gray mica (it will probably have issues in a few years unless I stay on top of it)
8. I will probably drive it less than 6,000 miles a year. I'll never rock crawl it, but light camping type stuff - not getting stuck. In two years I'll bring it to Vermont. There it will do what it was made for. Provide safe travels in mud/snow covered roads (but nothing a Subaru Outback can't - mostly).
9. Only 93K miles
10. I like it. My prior two LCs kept my kids safe in misadventures, and worse.

The bad news:
1. Radiator is actually really toast and leaking. $1,600
2. Engine seals failing. $5,900 (mostly labor)
3. Control Arm/Ball Joints Worn. $1,600
4. Front and Rear Brake Job with new front calipers and hoses. $1,500
5. Lower Control Arms Seeping. $1,600
6. Front Dashboard has ½" Gap between the instrument cluster and the Dashboard - Cosmetic. $3005
7. Power Antenna is bent, and kind of works. $600

So this is $15,600 not counting things like the hood struts, a couple of light bulbs, and windshield wipers that I can do.
I'm obviously not a wrencher, and I know parts is probably only 20% of the above, and maybe a dedicated LC shop might do me better (or provide 3rd party suspension upgrades instead).

The dealer inspecting it said they could help bring some of the above down (since they worked on my previous LCs), and brought up the obvious, it is 25 years old, and realistically all of the above probably would have been done with the exception of the Dashboard (and they said someone else might be able fix it for much less - since they don't know why it is popped up ½" over the instrument cluster and most of the money is in labor taking it all apart, replacing with new.

If I do all or most of the work above, my $23K LC becomes a $39-40K Land Cruiser, and I would still like to sandblast/powder coat wheels, add new BFG 285s, etc.

I have bid on LCs on Bring a Trailer to the mid $20k and always lost to people going to the $30k area.

Thoughts?
Should it go back, and I keep looking?
Are there any great independent LC shops in Orange/LA County area I should consider if I keep it?
If I keep it, to me first thing is get the radiator and Ts done, then look at other repair options?

99 LC.jpg
 
I say take it back yesterday. Not a chance does that sound like a good deal to me. I would put the "Only 93K miles" in the bad news list. I don't see any list of benefits due to having only 93K miles. Your lists could easily be describing a 400k+ mile LC at $5500. Not to mention.....$40k and still no ATRAC
 
Take it back as fast a physically possible. 23k is insane.
You can get a 99 with 300k miles on it with all the same problems for 1/4 of the price 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Last edited:
Used car prices are dropping through the floor.
That price is simply too high, even during the shutdown years.
But especially given the repair costs you're going to incur (which as @Trunk Monkey stated are also over inflated).
I'd suggest negotiate or walk.
 
send it back. for all the cons you listed, you can find examples of 200k trucks that have had those replaced already and for 1/2 the price, those labor/parts prices also seem steep.
 
What a lot of guys don't get is that these trucks are old now. Low milage doesn't matter on a 25 year old Land Cruiser because every bushing, hose, and seal is due for a replacement anyways. The milage doesn't really affect the motor or trans. But every bushing is toast due to age. So why pay a premium for less than 100k miles when the truck will have the same exact issues as a 25 yo truck with 200k or 300k.

Paying a premium for a low milage 100 is so very bizarre to me. :meh:
 
The prices you've got quoted above are ridiculously high and many of them you can do yourself, even if you're not a car guy.
Yes, those are dealer prices, and to be fair, they will negotiate down, and I know I could do/learn a little wrenching. The real issue for the motor safety is just getting the radiator done. Then I could have time for better decisions.

I say take it back yesterday. Not a chance does that sound like a good deal to me. I would put the "Only 93K miles" in the bad news list. I don't see any list of benefits due to having only 93K miles. Your lists could easily be describing a 400k+ mile LC at $5500. Not to mention.....$40k and still no ATRAC
Fair enough. Returning it is probably right choice. I have looked at LCs in the $12K to 18K range with multiple issues, and 250k miles, not to mention rust. This is the cleanest undercarriage I have ever seen.

Thanks
 
Used car prices are dropping through the floor.
That price is simply too high, even during the shutdown years.
But especially given the repair costs you're going to incur (which as @Trunk Monkey stated are also over inflated).
I'd suggest negotiate or walk.
Thanks. Trying to negotiate a compromise. I have been looking since the Covid peak and have noticed the price drop, but clean LCs without torn up interiors, functioning electrics, good body, original glass, under 150K miles all still seem to command over $20K. Of course Bring A Trailer has some crazy high numbers for what appear to be nearly new 100s.
 
What a lot of guys don't get is that these trucks are old now. Low milage doesn't matter on a 25 year old Land Cruiser because every bushing, hose, and seal is due for a replacement anyways. The milage doesn't really affect the motor or trans. But every bushing is toast due to age. So why pay a premium for less than 100k miles when the truck will have the same exact issues as a 25 yo truck with 200k or 300k.

Paying a premium for a low milage 100 is so very bizarre to me. :meh:
Thanks.

Yeah, I had an internal debate about much of the above you mentioned, I 100% get that it is 25 years old and made the same year as my first kid. What I like about the early 100 series is that they drive smooth since they have the independent front suspension, still have more of a classic look (though not an 80 series or earlier) and fly below the radar, except for those who know. They look good with the factory running boards off and BFG 285 Ads (which is all I was planning).

If I could negotiate a deal with them, I'd do the radiator, then approach the engine seals, and start looking at the smoothest/most modest 1"-2" lift since the control arms need replacing (and would help if I add a winch for Vermont).

Again, does anyone know of good So Cal LC shops? If I was still in Colorado, I would be working with Slee Off-road I think.
 
If you are willing to travel there are a ton of rust free cruisers in the southeast,

And 23K is 200 Series money. A 200 you can get in and go with zero repairs. Like this:

But I feel like you are not a 200 guy so we have 100s like this here:
 
Bring it back to drop the keys off then walk away, quickly.
 
You’re obviously not buying it with the expectation that it’s an appreciating investment, you seem to have been looking for a while, you’ve done your due diligence and know what you’re in for without immediately returning it, sounds like it’s not going to put you in the poorhouse … so keep it. Build it up to that clear picture you have in your minds eye and enjoy it. Good luck 😎
 
If you are willing to travel there are a ton of rust free cruisers in the southeast,

And 23K is 200 Series money. A 200 you can get in and go with zero repairs. Like this:

But I feel like you are not a 200 guy so we have 100s like this here:
Thanks. I'll start looking further out. Currently my scope has been about 300 miles.
 
My vote is to return and keep looking, if you can spare the time to be patient.
I've got other things to drive, and I think I will continue my search. This one just ticked a lot of my boxes. I could have dealt with the radiator and brakes just fine, and dealt with the suspension bits over time, it was just the motor seals that put it over the edge.
 
You’re obviously not buying it with the expectation that it’s an appreciating investment, you seem to have been looking for a while, you’ve done your due diligence and know what you’re in for without immediately returning it, sounds like it’s not going to put you in the poorhouse … so keep it. Build it up to that clear picture you have in your minds eye and enjoy it. Good luck 😎
I was almost there, meaning doing what you stated, but as others have said, and I know to be true, it makes sense to return it and keep looking for something half to ⅔ the price that is in better mechanical shape.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom