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SteveNJ

SteveNJ

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
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Basically the truck is really wavy right now, shoots all over the place in uneven road, scared the crap out of me a couple times at 60mph in a construction zone when the lanes shifted or road surface changed, so I want to try and tighten it up and smooth it out. I'm just under 100k miles and need some changes if I plan to survive over that :p

So I've thrown caution and my budget to the wind (at least a little bit, there are still some caps).

I've decided to go with an Ironman 4in, to replace the OME J's (MAF 3inch kit) I currently have.
So brand new springs, foam shocks, steering damper, front and rear adjustable panhard bars, metal tech caster plates, metal tech rear upper and lower links, OEM control arm bushings (to replace the MAF correction bushings bought by PO with the original kit).


I've talked to Christo about going PT and probably will down the road but I'm not comfortable doing the t-case work and a shop doing it is out of the budget right now (because I'd want to add the marlin reduction gears at the same time). I'll see if I pick up a vibe and make that decision later.

Based on what I have listed, what else should I add, what should I substitute in a different part for? Tie rods? anything else I'm not thinking of?
 
Link it





SteveNJ said:
Basically the truck is really wavy right now, shoots all over the place in uneven road, scared the crap out of me a couple times at 60mph in a construction zone when the lanes shifted or road surface changed, so I want to try and tighten it up and smooth it out. I'm just under 100k miles and need some changes if I plan to survive over that :p

So I've thrown caution and my budget to the wind (at least a little bit, there are still some caps).

I've decided to go with an Ironman 4in, to replace the OME J's (MAF 3inch kit) I currently have.
So brand new springs, foam shocks, steering damper, front and rear adjustable panhard bars, metal tech caster plates, metal tech rear upper and lower links, OEM control arm bushings (to replace the MAF correction bushings bought by PO with the original kit).


I've talked to Christo about going PT and probably will down the road but I'm not comfortable doing the t-case work and a shop doing it is out of the budget right now (because I'd want to add the marlin reduction gears at the same time). I'll see if I pick up a vibe and make that decision later.

Based on what I have listed, what else should I add, what should I substitute in a different part for? Tie rods? anything else I'm not thinking of?
Click to expand...
 
woytovich said:
I gotta think the steering control issues are because of bad steering geometry rather than parts needing to be replaced/upgraded.
Click to expand...

X2 Look elsewhere for the issues you are describing. As for the PT conversion, I think the truck drives/ handles better in AWD. Opinions vary though.
 
woytovich said:
I gotta think the steering control issues are because of bad steering geometry rather than parts needing to be replaced/upgraded.
Click to expand...

It's also the ride sucks, I expect it to ride like a truck but I'm not happy with the current setup, so it gets new parts, and mor lift since I wanted to go up a little anyway. Thnkof this as I need to solve many issues at once.

The steering is hard to explain, I've driven it plenty on the highway (nice straight flat highway) and had no problems even driving with just one hand, nice and relaxed. It goes nuts though in those lane adjustment areas when one side is higher for a bit. First time I hit one I nearly wet my pants as the truck decided to keep going right when we were supposed to be going left.
 
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won't you need a new drive shaft?
 
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half k cruiser said:
If your going to spend the money you may as well check/replace tie rods, control arm bushings, and sway bar link bushings. Remember the bigger your tires the more they like to wander. Also remember to shoot me a PM on your OME lift if you want to sell it
Click to expand...

No worries, it'll be for sale shortly after I get it off (couple weeks based on my current work schedule)


GLTHFJ60 said:
Agreed. Link it.
Click to expand...

Think we can do that in the field next Coal Mine? :D


cody c said:
check your TRE's, I see BCC has these cool upgrades:

http://www.bigcountrycustoms.com/store/product/bccs-ultimate-toyota-tie-rod-end/

not sure if the 80 series forum has seen them yet actually.

I would suspect the wander is related to castor, have you done bushings or land tanks plates?
Click to expand...

Those TRE's are sort of sexy. I may need them.

Caster is supposedly currently adjusted with bushings. I didn't put them in and don't have any documentation besides what I've been told, that may be also part of the reason I feel the need for replacement. I don't like not knowing what is there and who put it in, call it OCD or something.
 
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I just did my 4" lift using LANDTANK/Slee products. I also changed every piece of my steering except for the gearbox. I had over 300k miles on all Original parts. The springs were the biggest change. Got rid of the rocking motion. For me, the rocking was the truck hitting the rear bump stops and then oscillating because the springs were so weak. Even though my tie rods were all loose, I didn't feel like my steering was bad. In fact now that I changed everything out I don't notice much of a difference on the steering. But I'm glad I changed it all regardless.
 
Steve,

Steering geometry sounds like it's off due to the lift. The very first step is to have things measured by a shop with lasers and circles and arrows. After you know where you are, you can then attempt to adjust back to spec accordingly.

I have found that the ride quality of OME stuff absolutely sucks after the first few years. It becomes a bone jarring and uncomfortable ride. Commutes into the city from Jersey were almost unbearable. I have been extremely happy with the Ironman product both on road and off. I've had the 4" kit since 2010 and have done 2 round trips from Jersey to Moab with it and you know how I wheel. IMO it's a better product.

Since the front end geometry will change depending on the amount of lift you decide to go with, make that decision and have the kit installed first. Allow some time for it to settle in, then head to a shop for measurements.

Replace all the suspension bushings with OEM rubber. Stay away from poly, including the shock bushings.
Replace the body mount bushings with OEM rubber.

I never really paid attention to panhard rod length as these only set the static position. As the suspension flexes, the axles will shift side to side. so as you're driving, they're moving back and forth.
 
jonheld said:
Steve,


I have found that the ride quality of OME stuff absolutely sucks after the first few years. It becomes a bone jarring and uncomfortable ride. Commutes into the city from Jersey were almost unbearable. I
Click to expand...

That sounds pretty close to what I'm seeing (feeling).
The Ironman is enroute so we'll see what happens.
When she rolls out of my garage in a couple months, gonna be a totally different truck.
 
jcardona1 said:
$85 each?! :eek: I just bought my full Y-link steering kit with GM 1-ton TREs for the price of of 2 of those!
Click to expand...

haha, yeah, they're fairly cheap eh? They do look like they may be a lifetime replacement part, assuming they dont suffer from corrosion to badly, and may be the thing for rigs with oversized tires. Ive worn out some 80 series TRE's on my 60 with 40" tires and high steer.

What was the Y link kit you used BTW?
 
cody c said:
haha, yeah, they're fairly cheap eh? They do look like they may be a lifetime replacement part, assuming they dont suffer from corrosion to badly, and may be the thing for rigs with oversized tires. Ive worn out some 80 series TRE's on my 60 with 40" tires and high steer.

What was the Y link kit you used BTW?
Click to expand...

This one, http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

Just arrived yesterday so I haven't installed it. They have 25% off right now until 11/1/13 so it came out to $183 :) The GM 1-tons make the 80 series TRE look like they came off a toy car!
 
jcardona1 said:
This one, http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

Just arrived yesterday so I haven't installed it. They have 25% off right now until 11/1/13 so it came out to $183 :) The GM 1-tons make the 80 series TRE look like they came off a toy car!
Click to expand...

Your running different steering arms or something? Blue torch? How are you tying in to the front of the driverside knuckle?

I'd like to see a comparison picture BTW!
 
cody c said:
Oh yeah, I think SLEE was using this for his high steer kit, actually, a high steer should make things a pinch nicer for the OP as well.

Do you need a reamer or something for the 1 ton GM TRE's? Or do they drop in?
Click to expand...
Yeah Slee sells the same arm, but for $100 more. The steering arms and pitman arm need to be drilled out to 7/8", then you drop these inserts in that have the proper taper: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER.html
 
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