Has anyone tried this high output bolt on nippendendso alternator yet? Supposed to work for 93+ 80 series.
High output (170amp) bolt on alternator, anyone try it yet?
- Thread starter firetruck41
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- Thread starter
- #2
No one? Any body know anything about it?
NaterGator
On Gilligan's Island
It must if it actually produces the amperage it claims to (and you draw the power)
I'm sure you know this anyways, but as the alternator is loaded (and provides more current) the windings are torqued opposing the rotation of the motor. The amount of torque is proportional to the amount of current you draw.
I'm sure you know this anyways, but as the alternator is loaded (and provides more current) the windings are torqued opposing the rotation of the motor. The amount of torque is proportional to the amount of current you draw.
NaterGator
On Gilligan's Island
I'd wager it'd be about as bad as modifying the fan clutch with the 6k fluid... probably ~5hp.
- Thread starter
- #7
Good points, I didn't really think about that. I can't see needing that amount of power for a long time, but if I ever needed to replace the current alt, I would probably go this route.
I'm curious to see the dyno results as well. I'm getting tired of my headlights dimming when my subwoofer kicks to the beat.
higher output means cramming more into the same case, which means weaker, more chance of something internal going wrong.
Possibly but not absolute. Creating more efficiency doesn't make it weaker but it does create more heat. Has the case been ported and the cooling fan been upgraded as well?
I am running the Mean Green 130 amp alt and it actually runs cooler than the stock one did as checked by infrared temp gun. This is a great upgrade and price if it actually is all that is claimed!
NaterGator
On Gilligan's Island
Could honestly just be a better design with tighter tolerances and a better design on the windings (with, of course, more turns) and it probably has a slight underdrive pulley.
Haha no I'm not going to dyno it you toothless Japanese redneck
There was something I read online that every 20a = 1hp, so it would be up there... I suspect the losses are a little more though. If you need it, you need it and you won't notice those few HP gone. Advance your timing a little and run better gas, or get landtank's MAF to offset the loss or something. You'll survive 
NaterGator
On Gilligan's Island
No offense meant, but mean green alts are generally considered to be ripoffs. Ohio Generator company will rewind your alternator for max output if you send it to them (and alot of people like the results) and I've heard good things about dominick iraggi, although I have heard his quality may be fading as he tries to meet increasing demand.
No offense taken! There are two grades of Mean Green Alts. new or rebuilt....you will get what you pay for! 170 amps from a stock 90 amp case is questionable too....no offense meant.
Has anyone here tried one of these yet?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
X2 ... I'm interested too ..
well, in the link he didn't exactly answer many of the questions.
I'm just trying to figure this whole alternator thing out....
Why would photoman/bjowett advocate a mounting bracket to mount a stock tundra alternator that pushes more power when you could just mount a rewound one right in place? There has to be a reason. Some folk say the rewounds run hotter, are more likely to fail, have more resistance thus produces more pull on the motor????
So what's the story here? I have photoman's mounting bracket on my workbench. I also have a local friend that rewinds alternators. I'm torn on what to do here?????
I'm just trying to figure this whole alternator thing out....
Why would photoman/bjowett advocate a mounting bracket to mount a stock tundra alternator that pushes more power when you could just mount a rewound one right in place? There has to be a reason. Some folk say the rewounds run hotter, are more likely to fail, have more resistance thus produces more pull on the motor????
So what's the story here? I have photoman's mounting bracket on my workbench. I also have a local friend that rewinds alternators. I'm torn on what to do here?????
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Several guys on Yotatech seem to have had good luck with this company:
Boyle Future Technology
12325 Locksley Lane, Auburn, CA 95602
phone: (530) 888-6290
Here is a link to one of the threads suggesting them:
Question about high output Alternators. - YotaTech Forums
I haven't pursued this avenue yet but might for my OEM 22RE alternator. Might also be a good option for an 80.
Boyle Future Technology
12325 Locksley Lane, Auburn, CA 95602
phone: (530) 888-6290
Here is a link to one of the threads suggesting them:
Question about high output Alternators. - YotaTech Forums
I haven't pursued this avenue yet but might for my OEM 22RE alternator. Might also be a good option for an 80.
I considered a HO or rewound alternator for my 22RE in my truck. In the end, the guys at a good home based alternator shop told me the problem with rewinding a stock Toyota alternator is that you can't increase the number diodes to compensate and they will run hotter and wear out faster. They also said that power output will be less at idle than stock, but more at higher rpms. That's the two trade offs.
I later had NW Wrangler custom build me a new alternator from the ground up. They used a larger Nippondenso case from a Toyota forklift and put in all new parts for a factory reliable 150 amps. That project also cost me upwards of $600
Prior to that, I had two alternators in my truck. The 2nd one was a AC Delco alternator modified for 150 amps. Several years later the case on that alternator snapped in two.
When I got my 80 I wasn't sure what I was going to do.
.
Photoman's bracket is the end all deal for our 80s and after installing it and the alternator, everything else is just a waste of time and money....
For me, the total cost was under $200 and that included a 2004 Sequoia 150 amp alternator with only 14K miles on it.
In the end, what you get is a completely unaltered, toyota OEM alternator that was made in Japan, but really makes 150 amps maximum and a lot more than stock at idle. These alternators can be had in wrecking yards all over the country for around $100 or sometimes even less.
The bottom line is that you can go modified and hope for the best or you can go OEM and never have to think about it and still get 150 amps. That's the advantage.
I later had NW Wrangler custom build me a new alternator from the ground up. They used a larger Nippondenso case from a Toyota forklift and put in all new parts for a factory reliable 150 amps. That project also cost me upwards of $600
Prior to that, I had two alternators in my truck. The 2nd one was a AC Delco alternator modified for 150 amps. Several years later the case on that alternator snapped in two.
When I got my 80 I wasn't sure what I was going to do.
.
Photoman's bracket is the end all deal for our 80s and after installing it and the alternator, everything else is just a waste of time and money....
For me, the total cost was under $200 and that included a 2004 Sequoia 150 amp alternator with only 14K miles on it.
In the end, what you get is a completely unaltered, toyota OEM alternator that was made in Japan, but really makes 150 amps maximum and a lot more than stock at idle. These alternators can be had in wrecking yards all over the country for around $100 or sometimes even less.
The bottom line is that you can go modified and hope for the best or you can go OEM and never have to think about it and still get 150 amps. That's the advantage.
thank you Brian. That was exactly what i needed to hear.
