High output (170amp) bolt on alternator, anyone try it yet?

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Besides all the facts posted here, I will add that I wouldn't waste any cent on ANY upgraded alternator no matter who makes them if they still use the OEM small case.

Powermaster, NW Wrangler and some others use a way bigger ND case for their special HO alternators which came with a higher capacity diode plate and can disipate the heat better and isn't taxed by the limited temp disipation of the smaller 80 series OEM diameter case.

My 170 amp Powermaster has been worked flawlessly for more than 4 years before it give up (under extreme load with my 3 battery setup), but I had to replace only the front and rear bearings and the rectifier plate and it's again working great.

As I am aware the Toyota Tundra and Sienna OEM 150 amp ND available in the junkyards relays in the same bigger case.

It's also important to understand that any alternator no matter for which output capacity is rated, will draw the same HP from the engine at the same required load in amps. In short words a higher capacity alternator of course will draw more HP but only if you demand more current from it, and has nothing to do with fuel economy etc, is just related on how many amps you need.

The more amps you require, the more HP will draw so if your battery is charged and you have most of your electric equipment off, the HO alternator will tax your motor exactly the same as the Toyota 80 amp OEM alternator.

Just to clear this urban mith.
 
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even more good stuff. thanks man! now i know i made the right choice getting that bracket from photoman!
 
Hey CONCRETEJUNGLE, DO NOT fret your decision to go with PHOTOMAN's alt bracket. I've done alt rewinds twice before. Once for a 22RE in a 79 4WD PUP and the other in a 4Runner. Neither was able to produce what the alt shop thought they could get out of it and the one for the 4Runner overheated three different times. They said that the case was just not designed for it.

Now using the 05 Sequoia 150A alternator, that is DESIGNED to put out 150A, with PHOTOMAN's stupid simple alt bracket IS the way to go. Risk of overheating, low. Risk of reduced HP, low, Risk of not getting full amperage, low. Risk of overheating stock wiring unless you swap out to larger gauge wire.....ummm probably high which is why I'm changing it.:flipoff2:
 
And for those who say there was no 22RE in a 79 4WD PUP, well it does when its a 22R block bored .80 over with 22RE dome heads to help support my Camden S/C. Man I miss that truck.


sad panda
 
Hey CONCRETEJUNGLE, DO NOT fret your decision to go with PHOTOMAN's alt bracket. I've done alt rewinds twice before. Once for a 22RE in a 79 4WD PUP and the other in a 4Runner. Neither was able to produce what the alt shop thought they could get out of it and the one for the 4Runner overheated three different times. They said that the case was just not designed for it.

Now using the 05 Sequoia 150A alternator, that is DESIGNED to put out 150A, with PHOTOMAN's stupid simple alt bracket IS the way to go. Risk of overheating, low. Risk of reduced HP, low, Risk of not getting full amperage, low. Risk of overheating stock wiring unless you swap out to larger gauge wire.....ummm probably high which is why I'm changing it.:flipoff2:
You should not need to swap out stock wire. The device, radio, lights etc. will only draw what it needs.

You may however be concerned with a dead battery taking a full 100+ AMP charge. The battery will take it and your regulator or other charging infrastructure may not take the greater than stock current being available.
 
I will be running dual batteries through an isolator. I'm not too concerned. If there were an issue, MANY more before me would have sounded off already. As far as wiring, I'm not exactly worried about overheating the wiring, I just want to make sure that there is enough power available for accessories and I don't want to bottle neck it with small gauge wires.
 
Someone can route me to the photoman alt bracket . ?

I found plenty of Tundra alt in eBay around 50 - 100 bucks .. looks a nice deal to me .. I'm missing something ?
 
so you need a bracket from BJOWETT a 2005 tundra alt and ?? whats the deal with the pulleys?
 
You should not need to swap out stock wire. The device, radio, lights etc. will only draw what it needs.

You may however be concerned with a dead battery taking a full 100+ AMP charge. The battery will take it and your regulator or other charging infrastructure may not take the greater than stock current being available.

Whaaaaat !!!!!!!!

YOU SHOULD REPLACE THE OEM WIRE between the Alt +B out and the battery or the dual battery isolator with a # 4 wire (at least), if not what's the purpose of replacing the OEM alt with a HO unit ? :bang:
 
so you need a bracket from BJOWETT a 2005 tundra alt and ?? whats the deal with the pulleys?


If you are interested in doing the Toyota alternator upgrade I have a bracket available. As far as the pulleys; putting the belts in the pulleys and then tipping the alternator with belts in to the top stock mount is much easier than trying to work the belts over top of the pulleys.

The stock charging wire and in particular, the fuse link, was designed by Toyota for an 80 amp alternator. Upgrading the alternator to 130 or 150 amps requires that the charging wire and negative ground wire should be upgraded. If there would be a scenario when winching or charging a low battery etc., where the new alternator would put out its rated capacity it might let the smoke out of the stock fuse link. So to do a Toyota upgrade, mechanically an adapter bracket and 130 or 150 amp alternator is needed. To do the wiring, a larger charge wire and fuse is needed. Up sizing the negative is recommended to get the full potential out of the new alternator.

Thanks to all for the nice comments.

Bill
 
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Up sizing the negative is recommended to get the full potential out of the new alternator.

Bill

Hi Bill: Upsizing the negative is not really so necesary as is the positive alternator output, since the negative battery post goes to the frame and then to the engine block and is sized to handle the starting motor current demand but also enough to handle whatever the alternator provide since it's bolted to the engine.

Of course upsizing the negative is not a bad idea and proof of that is I did it on mine.
 

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