Block Drain and Drain Plug Removal

[75PIG]

OK -- the drain plug was easy to get out but no fluid came out on my FJ40. Wanting to flush the system.

Next step.... remove the Block Drain but appears to be a bit tight.

1.) Are the threads reverse or standard?

Figure the drain plug was normal thread (lefty lucy and righty tighty) so is the Block drain the reverse (lefty tighty and righty lucy???)?

Stuck an awl into the block drain but does not appear that I can get any crudd out.

2.) Do I have to remove the Block Drain and poke around to get the coolant to drain?

People have used hangers--- at least that is what they have said to get stuff to flow. Seems like the inside of the Block Drain shape does not support putting something into it to clean it out. Like I said, tried awls of different sizes and copper wire--- Is it a small diameter hole inside the Block Drain? If so, that is pretty small diameter.

 

[spotcruiser]

Block drain has standard threads (ccw to loosen). There's often a ton of crap in there (it's kind of a dead-end in the coolant system), so go after it with an ice pick or screwdriver. When you bust the blockage out, you'll know it.

 

[75PIG]

Thanks

Thanks Spotcruiser....

Can I go at it with an ice pic without taking out the Block drain and instead going through the block drain taking out the drain plug only? I would prefer to do this.

Can I use a hammer to break up the crud with the ice pic --- awl (I am using).

Can I break anything by doing this?

 

[Trollhole]

Just pick in there. Shouldn't need a hammer.


Who out there has come up with a non messy way of draining the block without getting fluid everywhere. Would be nice if it had a nipple for a hose.

 

[75PIG]

OK -- will pic at it w/o removing the Block Drain.

I thought about this and after I get my drain operating, I should be able to install a tygon tube into the Block drain hole that is oriented towards the ground and drain it by just backing out the drain plug. However, this is a smaller hole and will take a while to drain and removing the plug can be faster. It will probably fill with crudd and will have to keep removing the tube to clean it.

Another idea is to get a coupler with the same thread as the plug and attach a tube to it. You will still have the mess to deal with in the beginning (removing the plug) but you won't have to watch it as much once you get the coupler in with the tube and tube into container.

 

[75PIG]

The coupler would have to insert passed the drain block drain hole --- Don't know if there is something out there that will be threaded long enough to go passed the drain hole.

 

[spotcruiser]

Who out there has come up with a non messy way of draining the block without getting fluid everywhere. Would be nice if it had a nipple for a hose.

If you have the fittings un-plugged and clean, you can just crack the outer fitting/plug and the coolant will run down the block. There is a low spot on the bottom edge of the block, below the drain, that perfectly channels the coolant into a bucket. You just can't be in too much of a hurry.

 

[lostmarbles]

Odd.

Mrs Toyota was considerate when she put the block drain on my 1979 diesel.



It includes a hose.

 

[75PIG]

OK--- Now What!!!!

Spotcruiser, I would love to have some flow to drain the engine into a bucket. Ran into a crudd plug. Also, unable to reef hard enough on the outer Block Drain to loosen it. Trying to free the Block Drain going CCW direction (the Drain Plug came out no problem probably due to it being brass.) I took the day off to get the coolant flushed but have tomorrow too --- however, that was reserved to get the siding done on the house.

With a smaller screwdriver, was able to make it through the "hard plug" but still have no flow. I can feel the inner wall of the block (I think - makes a metal sound). I have encountered a "sludge." A picture of the "sludge" is on the screwdriver and I can move it in/out freely; wipe off the sludge and put it back in and it will come out with more "sludge material on the screwdriver. I tried a "zip-tie" thinking I could somehow move it up and create a channel through the sludge and start the flow. No luck. Not sure there is enough room between the Block Drain inset and the inner block water jacket wall. What is encouraging is that it is sludge, so it is at least "wet" and not the hard pack I had in the Block Drain. Just have to get the sludge out. Tried a little compressed air but the Block Drain hole kept it from getting enough pressure to affect the sludge - probably not a good idea since I do not want to entrap air.

See Pictures below to see if any of you can point me in the right direction. I guess I could still remove the thermostat and try to flush the rest of the system but don't want to remove all of the coolant and leave water in the system. Got to get the Block Drain flowing.

I have not been successful removing the Block Drain. Using a 19mm with breaker bar. Tough location and attempting to rotate Counter-Clock-Wise (CCW) direction - this is the same direction that removes the drain plug. I have sprayed with penetrating oil. No affect yet --- however, gravity is not my friend here to keep the penetrating oil penetrating into the block.

Let me know what you think.

 

[75PIG]

see pics

 

[75PIG]

Still Have a Dry Well -- Engine Block Drain Cleaning No Help

OK -- for completeness, thought I would post some pictures. I was able to get the Engine Block Drain was taken off with a lot of effort. Kept chipping away at the hard crap but believe I am at the inside wall of the water jacket. Still no water so have a dry well at this spot on the engine block. That is a bit concerning to me.

How many of you have taken out the drain, unable to yield water from it, and has not been a concern?

I was able to loosen the water house bolts so will "flush" the engine that way with the Prestone connection in the heater hose. Maybe I will get lucky and the flush will open up the water jacket near the Engine Block Drain. Pretty incredible as to how "hard" that crud is that plugs up the outlet. Got through it to I think the inside wall of the water jacket but need a different tool since the hole is not big enough to somehow get a scraping tool in there to make contact with the coolant. Hope it is nearby.

In Picture 1 the hole is small.... is the diameter supposed to be the same as the Engine Block Drain? See Picture 2 with the Engine Block Drain and the brass Drain Plug. I have reamed the hole in the Engine Block Drain to get to the inside wall of the unit removing the crud.

Let me know if any other tricks to clean this out to get flow.

 

[spotcruiser]

Wow! That's pretty plugged-up. It's not an uncommon issue, though. Although it's giving you a hard time, it's probably lucky that you discovered this issue. With it blocked like that, you know it's not getting good cooling at the back of that #6 cylinder. Like I said, it's in a backwater area of the block, so it collects crap. I can't suggest much that you probably haven't already considered. You might try working a coat hanger or a larger, stiffer rod up and around in that crap. You might also try hitting it with a hose and pressure nozzle or even a pressure washer from a few inches away (try not to pressurize the chamber, though). Behind that hole is a coolant chamber around the back of the cylinder, so you really want to get that crap out of there.

Good Luck.

 

[Steamer]

Mine was so clogged I wacked on it with a center punch & hammer & it didn't budge. I thought I was pounding on cast iron. After rechecking the manuals and convinced it was indeed a drain I got the heaviest drift pin that would fit in that hole and a small sledge hammer and wailed on it. It finally broke in. I had the freeze plugs out and pulled out chunks of what I thought was cast iron. I thought I busted the block. But the chunks turned out to be non-ferrous & could be smashed into powder. I'm sure it was that aluminum leak stop put in by the PO. You have some room in there before you'll hit the cylinder accross from it. "Pound Away". You may want to take a look at the extreme flush it took to clean mine out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/589286-little-help-flushing-coolant-engine-block.html

 

[75PIG]

Steamer -- good reads on the effort. I have been monitoring the progress by crimson? I like the contraption for flushing you built using the muriatic acid. Crimson seemed to have good luck but do not know how he knew the water jacket was clean if he did not remove the freeze plugs. Not so keen myself on the freeze plug removal due to space. Might have to take off fenders to put them back in.

Considering spotcruiser's "whack" at it a little more and hanger trick. I have a few more projects. this one was supposed to be easy.

1. FJ-80 --- radiator, waterpump, fluid coupler, flushing (I hope the drain opens), fuel filter, coolant replacement,

2. FJ-55 --- front axle seals -- leaking oil

3.) finish siding the house -- wife criteria.

Need more time in a day. Will ponder in my sleep tonight (knighmares).

 

[Pearly]

If you are facing sludge like that, can you get a hose onto the drain and back flush it?

 

[Bittsandbobs]

Perhaps a more gentle approach? Try to thread a tap into the sludge plug?
Cheers,
B&B

 

[Trollhole]

Remove the radiator cap and put compressed air into that drain.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Remove the radiator cap and put compressed air into that drain.

Even with the radiator cap removed the gunk could be creating a path that only goes somewhere else.

I wouldn't get it much over 40 or 50psi. Not a bad way to look for weak hoses I suppose. Definitely a bad way to find a weak spot in your heater core. At 100psi something would give.

 

[Steamer]

How about drilling with a masonry bit? I doubt you'll break through with air or water pressure but you're probably gonna want some fittings for flushing for when you do break through so it's worth a try. I can't say that those threads are not BSPT but I know that 3/8" ID nominal pipe works so well I think that's what it is. Home depot has all that stuff. When it comes to the garden hose fittings just remember that 3/4 hose threads and 3/4" pipe threads are different. So close they're easy to mix up. One will start on the other but won't make up right and you'll have the squirts. Pipe threads are tapered with sharp pointy threads. Hose threads are non tapered with rounded threads.

 

[Trollhole]

Even with the radiator cap removed the gunk could be creating a path that only goes somewhere else.

I wouldn't get it much over 40 or 50psi. Not a bad way to look for weak hoses I suppose. Definitely a bad way to find a weak spot in your heater core. At 100psi something would give.

If you get air going somewhere else than out the radiator then you have bigger issues. Just drain the radiator before doing this.