Builds Ziplock's revival (1 Viewer)

[Behemoth60]

Ive actually been working on this. Other than a few gussets and tabs, the frame is ready for final welding.

 

[Behemoth60]

Its just another serpentine accessor belt drive on a 13B-T.

 

[cruisermatt]

Beautiful. Nice CBR pump. GM 6.5 diesel tensioner? What did you use for the crank pulley?

 

[likethewheel]

Some of you may remember Ziplock, my first BJ74, first acquired in 2002. It was always my 'back-up' wheeling rig, but eventually became my go to off-roader. It had a spring over, 4.88 gears, one of the very first Marlin Toyboxes, factory cable lockers, 4x4 labs steering with home-made assist ram, longfields, roll cage and 40" tires.

Together, we went a lot of places. Rubicon, Black Hills, Canol Road, Moab, Satan's out house, most River Shivers, and a T-Bar, that I can think of... Memories.

But, I rolled it in Moab (Area BFE, Green Day trail) in 2015.
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Twas merely a flesh wound. I ordered a whole new fiberglass clip from Australia (Hood, fenders, windshield etc), and it was back on the trails by July. But, the July long weekend trip in 2015 would be one too many for poor Ziplock.

Ziplock's last stand....
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During that last trip, the axle housing that I bent on the Rubicon in 2006, then further bent on the Alaska highway in 2009, was right fully twisted when it was rolled over back onto it's wheels in Moab. The Full Float axle shaft was shearing off studs. But what really did it in was the classic Toybox / H55F failure which we now better understand... I towed 45Kevin some 32 kms with a dead clutch off the trail... all that torque overcomes the clamp that Marlin provides to hold the output shaft of the H55f, and causes the output shaft to bind against the input shaft. So, I had a bad transmission in need of a rebuild, and a bent axle housing. For those that know me... you will know that this is the EXACT combination of failures that triggered me to build TippyR back in 2002, and put 53" tires on my 60 series (see avatar pic)

So I parked Ziplock in 2015, and built the ultimate shop in which to build land Cruisers. We can talk about that later!

This weekend, I started ziplock's revival. I towed it into the shop to asses the situation.

It's been scavenged for parts... Headlights, Seats, alternator and a/c compressor all stolen for the other BJ74s. Tires, lockers, gears, longfields and air compressor are now in Shaker the BJ42. Tub is in bad shape - the 3 or 4 roll overs over it's life have take their toll. And 18 years in Canada has exposed all the rust spots.

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The first step is to strip it down. I am going to pull the body entirely off the frame so I can fix the suspension, but before that... I already have the tires... 42" iroks. some inspiration...
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This would make the wheelbase about 118", up from 105. It would enable a fantastic approach and departure angle! What do you think?

118” WB is longer than a Troopy! sick project. Love seeing 70s built to wheel HARD

 

[Behemoth60]

Beautiful. Nice CBR pump. GM 6.5 diesel tensioner? What did you use for the crank pulley?

Some technical details:

Crank Pulley = Dorman 594-530.
Tensioner = Gates 38108
OE apps on both of the above is GM 4.3 V6

Air compressor = Sanden SD715 from a Volvo Semi Truck that I stumbled upon at an Auction.

PS Pump is PSC version of a CBR Pump - the high output/high pressure version. I will be on full hydro steering and hydroboost brake master.

Alternator is an 24V 80Amp output with vacuum pump from a 94-01 Isuzu 4HEI engine with a modified pulley to accept the factory 'B' size V-Belt. PN LR280-501, LR280-506 or LR280-508. (going to electric fan so I need the bigger alternator to run the fan, and running Ford clutch master but mated the factory vacuum clutch booster as well as still using the factory vacuum butterfly valve for engine shut down)

Crank Pulley and Water Pump are factory, although if you look closely, you will note that I have to replace studs on Water pump pulley (for the factory fan) with some low profile headed bolts to clear the serpentine belt! Tolerances are.... tight...

 

[cruiserpilot]

So keeping it 24V then?

 

[OGBeno]

Pimp. Awesome

 

[lowenbrau]

I saw this thing last weekend. It is well thought out! I may drop in tomorrow to see it finish-welded. I suspect it’ll start going together more quickly now.

 

[Behemoth60]

Frame welds. #KnowYouLimits #HireAWelder

 

[cruiserpilot]

Craftsmanship!! That looks pretty sweet. J

 

[Behemoth60]

Rear axle:
Full float 14 bolt (originally a drum brake from a late 90’s E-350 van) converted to factory disk/parking brakes from a 01-11 GM 2500HD.

Housing narrowed to 63” WMS and diff shaved with TMR kit. 5.38 Nitro gears (also shaved) on ARB air locker.

Custom RCV axle shafts.

Lots of TMR stuff on this including link, shock, limit strap, zip tie, and tie-down brackets, shorty truss, pinion support and diff cover.

Pinion flange is the rockwell 1480 flange.

All assembled, torqued, sealed, painted, adjusted measured, bench tested and ready for install. <note to self… it still needs oil>

 

[NM Frontier]

Wow!

 

[Behemoth60]

Front Axle:
14 Bolt dually housing. Converted to steering axle with Crane Axle revolution14 inner seals, C’s and knuckles and keyed high steer arms, all built to 63” wms width.
housing and ring gear are shaved for clearanve with TMR shave kit and front cover.
ARB locker, 5.38 Nitro gears, 1480 rockwell pinion flange
Hubs and spindles are Dynatrac stub hubs, with Dynaloc hubs.
axle shafts are custom RCV’s
PSC 3”x9” double ended ram with EMF steering joints.
15 degrees of pinion angle to achieve 7 degrees of castor and 8 degrees of pinion tilt.
brakes are 01-11 GMC 2500HD front Calipers with rear rotors and a DIY bracket.
a bunch of TMR brackets, including a pulley mount to mount a front suck down winch

it litterally took me a week and a half to assemble aftermarket parts from 10 different vendors. It took some figuring!

 

[cruiserdan]

Delicious.

 

[cruisermatt]

Gorgeous.

 

[FJBen]

That should hold up to 33's just fine

 

[Behemoth60]

Links!
both front and rear suspension is a double triangulated 4 link design.
links ends are “Johnny Joints” with 1.25” left and right hand threads into threaded tube inserts & 9/16” bolts.
links themselves are 2” x0.25 wall DOM. All 4 Lower links have a slug of 1.5” aluminum inside them to resist crushing and bending upon impact with pointy things.
lengths, for those that must know:
Front Rear
Lower 965 1080
Upper 730 1040

 

[Behemoth60]

Springs!
Radflo 16” remote 2.0” coil overs.
Initial springs rates are: fronts springs 175/300 coils, rears are 225/250.

 

[cruiserpilot]

That should hold up to 33's just fine

I’m going out on a limb here, but figure 42” minimum

 

[Broski]

Step 1 dismemberment. Remove front clip. Undo things attached to the body. Install a nominal 1.5" body lift, take some measurements of frame to body clearance with the body lift. Then remove the body with my overhead crane, which is built into my shop specifically for lifting body's off frames. Am I bragging about my new shop? no. I am simply making a statement of fact which highlights the superiority of my shop over you garage, which, presumably, lacks a built in BJ74 body lifting crane.
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I'm liking the build already.
Sick shop, that overhead lifting thingy is called a Gantry