Yet Another SBC TBI into an FJ62...
- Thread starter xxfullsailxx
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V8's just look at home in the 60's engine bay. Its like a glove.
Clint
Clint
- Thread starter
- #63
yeah, when my dad was here he talked about FJ40's coming off the showroom floor in california during the 70's...the Toyota dealer would call straight down to the local Chevy dealer (who he worked parts/service for) for a crate 350 and install them for customers straight away from the dealer...
-darin
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of course we are watching!!!! The other thing about posting your build is that it helps you "think" out what you are doing and comes in handy when you need to look back at how you did something.
ntsqd
technerd
HAH! someone else dealing with Painfull Wiring!
For the fuel filter, I would suggest using the filter that GM used. They used that filter on everything EFI. That makes them a common and not terribly spendy EFI fuel filter, $9 -$16 at Rockauto.com. They are a 10 micron, SS bodied filter that is fairly compact in size and can be mounted with a hose clamp if desired. There is one issue with them though and that is the fittings on the ends. They are the "O-ring Bump" style of tube fitting.
Absolute easiest way to deal with this is to cut the tube nuts and section of tubing off a junkyard car. Soft solder just the ferrule from a compression fitting onto the tube, and put the hose clamp further from the end of the tube than the ferrule.
Next easiest, works better, is more robust, but costs a bit more is to buy the AN adapter fittings and either some push-on hose ends or AN type tube nuts for flaring some tubing. I can post pictures of this tonight if needed. The fittings are a one-time only purchase, not like they need to be replaced when it's time for the filter to be replaced.
The adapter:
Aluminum: Russell Performance 648060 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Steel: Aeroquip FBM2608 - Aeroquip AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
For the fuel filter, I would suggest using the filter that GM used. They used that filter on everything EFI. That makes them a common and not terribly spendy EFI fuel filter, $9 -$16 at Rockauto.com. They are a 10 micron, SS bodied filter that is fairly compact in size and can be mounted with a hose clamp if desired. There is one issue with them though and that is the fittings on the ends. They are the "O-ring Bump" style of tube fitting.
Absolute easiest way to deal with this is to cut the tube nuts and section of tubing off a junkyard car. Soft solder just the ferrule from a compression fitting onto the tube, and put the hose clamp further from the end of the tube than the ferrule.
Next easiest, works better, is more robust, but costs a bit more is to buy the AN adapter fittings and either some push-on hose ends or AN type tube nuts for flaring some tubing. I can post pictures of this tonight if needed. The fittings are a one-time only purchase, not like they need to be replaced when it's time for the filter to be replaced.
The adapter:
Aluminum: Russell Performance 648060 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Steel: Aeroquip FBM2608 - Aeroquip AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
- Thread starter
- #66
it seems like a lot of my thinking happens as i'm trying to go to sleep at night!
ntsqd
technerd
Then I'll suggest a notebook by the bed.
This thread is motivating me to do the V8 swap on mine. Maybe this winter/spring. Not to hijack but what do you guys think about this type of motor mount
It uses a stock motor mount, rubber or poly.
It uses a stock motor mount, rubber or poly.
- Thread starter
- #69
I was wondering if anyone knew of an "easy" solution to spark plug wire routing with the ramshorn manifolds...
is there a GM application or bracket out there that routes the plug wires behind the block and under the manifolds?
a couple of problems i've run into with the "Painless" wiring harness:
-the main distributor wiring was too short to reach the distributor so i had to cut and splice in about 8 inches of wire from the old harness. (i used the stock hole in the firewall that the toyota engine harness came through)
-the harness had the wrong connector to the EGR solenoid, and every solenoid i looked at (NAPA, Advanced Auto, etc.) used the same connector. i called Painless and they are sending me the correct pigtail...i don't know why they don't just include it with the kit...the "correct" part number they give for the solenoid doesn't match their connector. but they were very helpful and there is no charge for the correct one.
all in all, no big deal. the harness was cheaper than any other out there and included the $100 rebate...and since i've never dealt with any other harness i really have nothing to bitch about!!!
here's a couple of pictures from the wiring:
is there a GM application or bracket out there that routes the plug wires behind the block and under the manifolds?
a couple of problems i've run into with the "Painless" wiring harness:
-the main distributor wiring was too short to reach the distributor so i had to cut and splice in about 8 inches of wire from the old harness. (i used the stock hole in the firewall that the toyota engine harness came through)
-the harness had the wrong connector to the EGR solenoid, and every solenoid i looked at (NAPA, Advanced Auto, etc.) used the same connector. i called Painless and they are sending me the correct pigtail...i don't know why they don't just include it with the kit...the "correct" part number they give for the solenoid doesn't match their connector. but they were very helpful and there is no charge for the correct one.
all in all, no big deal. the harness was cheaper than any other out there and included the $100 rebate...and since i've never dealt with any other harness i really have nothing to bitch about!!!
here's a couple of pictures from the wiring:
- Thread starter
- #70
As this is my first engine swap...i'm probably not one to comment. The AA mounts seem to work well and weren't too much fuss.
I will say one thing...it looks like that mount "cradles" the oil pan and there may be clearance issues if you're trying to run the Walker crossover pipe...
ntsqd
technerd
Corvettes with Ram's Horn manifolds route the spark plug cables down the back side of each cylinder head and then come up from the bottom to each plug using a 90* boot. Early blocks used to have a little threaded boss between the pairs of cylinders right up near the deck surface where a tab bolted on for holding the spark plug cables. Haven't even looked to see if my block still has those or not.
(Hint for AA mount users: look up the front mounts used on flathead Ford V8's. If the rubber parts used aren't the same thing, they are extremely similar.)
I used FJ60 rubber spring eye bushings. That took some lathe work, but they fit into the stock GM mount bracket on the block.
Stock mounts are better than the AA mounts, but I second that mount tube being in the way of the front axle, the exhaust, or both.This thread is motivating me to do the V8 swap on mine. Maybe this winter/spring. Not to hijack but what do you guys think about this type of motor mount
It uses a stock motor mount, rubber or poly.
(Hint for AA mount users: look up the front mounts used on flathead Ford V8's. If the rubber parts used aren't the same thing, they are extremely similar.)
I used FJ60 rubber spring eye bushings. That took some lathe work, but they fit into the stock GM mount bracket on the block.
Looks like your getting close. That engine is looking nice and clean in there. Did the harness come like that without protection over the wires? . I used FIC for my harness and was pretty happy. I kept all the emissions equipment and used a 4l60e trans and I think the harness ran 330$ shipped. I was so glad I didn't do the harness myself plus I wanted the piece of mind that the whole thing was new and not cracked up.
agree that the corvette setup ran wires from the distrobutor down behind cylinder head and then between cylinder head and exhaust manifold forward to the plugs. I don't think the new style cylinder heads have teh small bolt bosess for the mounts? I know the specific heat shiields for the spark plugs do not work..
One option is to us big block spark plug wires for same year engine...say 92 TBI 454.. has straight plug wire boots, you'll need to run some of the spark plug boot heat protectors NAPA has or come up with a way to shield the heat from the plug wies or you will end up cooking the spark plug boots.
I have the NAPA heat sheilds (some type of cloth type materail) that is place on the spark plug boot. If and when that screws up I bought some spark plug boot heat sheilds from a 01 suburban that I will use..these are metal "shields" that are placed on teh boot itself.
I've burned up two or three spark plug boots already. I'm running plug wires from 99 2500 truck with 454, which mates with the flat top distributor and also give straight spark plug boots.
One option is to us big block spark plug wires for same year engine...say 92 TBI 454.. has straight plug wire boots, you'll need to run some of the spark plug boot heat protectors NAPA has or come up with a way to shield the heat from the plug wies or you will end up cooking the spark plug boots.
I have the NAPA heat sheilds (some type of cloth type materail) that is place on the spark plug boot. If and when that screws up I bought some spark plug boot heat sheilds from a 01 suburban that I will use..these are metal "shields" that are placed on teh boot itself.
I've burned up two or three spark plug boots already. I'm running plug wires from 99 2500 truck with 454, which mates with the flat top distributor and also give straight spark plug boots.
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- Thread starter
- #74
yeah, the painless harness comes without looming...it seems to be working pretty well, but i will end up spending some time covering it. i'm also psyched to have all new wiring and sensors to start things off with. hopefully it will make start up easier.
i got the fuel filter, lines and connectors today. i'll post pictures later, but again, Tubes & Hose in Loveland, CO was a huge help...
also, i thought for some reason that i had to run the toyota oil pressure sending unit, but the OEM GM one has three wires: two to the computer and a third that i'm guessing is for the gauge...i'm hoping just to be able to tie that third wire into the gauge?
ntsqd
technerd
Re: Spark plug cables; one of the single best tools that I have purchased for working on autos is the MSD cable cutter/crimper pliers. Mine are the old type, but they completely free me from worrying about spark plug cable applications. On project vehicles I make a dedicated set of cables from a coil of cable, boots and terminals. MSD cable is good, Magnecor cable is better. It's actually the best that I've ever used. At work on the dyno we had an ignition noise problem with an ECU that even the MSD cables didn't cure. The Magnecor cables did cure the problem.
I hadn't really looked at boot clearance to the Ram's Horns. I'll be having a look at that this weekend.
I hadn't really looked at boot clearance to the Ram's Horns. I'll be having a look at that this weekend.
There are heat shields that go in the bosses. They're little pricey.
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050b~Z5Z5Z5AAFRR~P49.95~~~~~~~F#
- Thread starter
- #77
that looks like it could turn out pretty clean...
There are heat shields that go in the bosses. They're little pricey.
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050b~Z5Z5Z5AAFRR~P49.95~~~~~~~F#
Well I don't mind buying them...but notice the small hole at the end (that where it bolts to the cylinder head) ..
Anyway....don't think the new model cylinder heads have the same bolt hole boss? I think I looked into that previously, anyone know for sure? Will they bolt up to 5.7 TBI or 5.7 Vortec cylinder heads?
I can tell you that long term you will need some type of heat deflector or you end up with either a couple of well done "crispy" or "melted" spark plug boots. Good find...on the heat sheilds.
that's not a bad price $50.00 if they are decent quality. Yeah I realze that bascially they are like small piece of tin type formed metal but they are hard to find. If I can vefiry that they will bolt up to my engine...I'll be getting a set. Hopefully install would not involve removing manifolds.
- Thread starter
- #80
another question...
can i ask about what you guys do with the charcoal canister lines, fuel tank venting and those related fuel lines? can i simply remove them? do i need to run the charcoal canister? is there a "simple" solution to fuel tank venting?
thanks again!
can i ask about what you guys do with the charcoal canister lines, fuel tank venting and those related fuel lines? can i simply remove them? do i need to run the charcoal canister? is there a "simple" solution to fuel tank venting?
thanks again!
