Why not leave them in place and functioning? Seems like the simplest thing to do, and then you won't be smelling fuel vapors on hot days.
Yet Another SBC TBI into an FJ62...
- Thread starter xxfullsailxx
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and you will without it.... I deleted out of my system when I was using the dynamic efi ecm but promptly reinstalled it.
- Thread starter
- #83
so you're saying i should leave the toyota charcoal canister and lines in place?
is that what most people do? and isn't there a third line off the canister that went to the motor? so do i hook that line up to the chevy motor?
(just double checking, pardon my ignorance!
)
The charcoal canisters do need to purge the fuel that they catch. They do this by opening a 'vent' hose to intake manifold vacuum at part-throttle cruise conditions. W/o ECU control there will be some sort of vacuum switch I'd guess. Look at the OE carb system relative to the canister and possibly look up how GM did it with a carb. That should give you a good idea of what is needed.
- Thread starter
- #87
thanks for all the info!
no curtis, the painless harness doesn't have any connectors for the canister...and i'm not too concerned about emissions at this point.
looking at the schematics for both the toyota and the GM motor, the evap systems look very similar...i'm going to look at the toyota canister tomorrow. i can't remember what kind of electrical came off of it, if any. in fact, here is what my hayne's says:
"The charcoal canister is equipped with a check valve that incorporates three check balls. Depending upon the running conditions and the pressure in the fuel tank, the check balls open and close the passageways to the TVV and the fuel tank."
i'm wondering if i can't just hook up the second line to the port on the GM TBI unit just like it came with!?
today i was working on the fuel lines and fuel filter...i cut and flared the toyota pressure side with the intent of putting in the fuel filter and hose to the TBI but realized the toyota hard line is 8mm and i will have to visit the hose shop tomorrow to neck my filter set up down to 5/16 on the inlet side...some things seem like they should be so simple but turn out to be a real pain in the arse!
no curtis, the painless harness doesn't have any connectors for the canister...and i'm not too concerned about emissions at this point.
looking at the schematics for both the toyota and the GM motor, the evap systems look very similar...i'm going to look at the toyota canister tomorrow. i can't remember what kind of electrical came off of it, if any. in fact, here is what my hayne's says:
"The charcoal canister is equipped with a check valve that incorporates three check balls. Depending upon the running conditions and the pressure in the fuel tank, the check balls open and close the passageways to the TVV and the fuel tank."
i'm wondering if i can't just hook up the second line to the port on the GM TBI unit just like it came with!?
today i was working on the fuel lines and fuel filter...i cut and flared the toyota pressure side with the intent of putting in the fuel filter and hose to the TBI but realized the toyota hard line is 8mm and i will have to visit the hose shop tomorrow to neck my filter set up down to 5/16 on the inlet side...some things seem like they should be so simple but turn out to be a real pain in the arse!
You can get a little creative on the low pressure side of the fuel pump...I know the TBI engine don't run crazy fuel pressure, but make sure you use the proper fittings and hose on teh pressure side of the fuel pump.
- Thread starter
- #89
well, i didn't get around to pulling out the canister today...but i did get the fuel lines and filter hooked up!
i ended up coming off the toyota hard line with a 5/16" compression fitting to rubber hose to a 5/16" to 3/8" brazed end to crimped fitting (made by Tubes & Hose Inc.) to the inlet on the filter to 3/8" out and ran high pressure hose all the way up to the TBI hard lines.
i also hooked up the speed sensor from JTR. i assume that since there is only one wire coming from my harness and two coming off the sensor that one of those can go straight to ground...
tomorrow will be the big push on the electrical...at this point i'm going to run the fuel pump wire all the way down the frame and splice it in to the stock wiring at the inspection cover or somewhere there abouts...does this sound correct?
thanks for all the help, i'm sure i'll be posting more questions tomorrow...
i ended up coming off the toyota hard line with a 5/16" compression fitting to rubber hose to a 5/16" to 3/8" brazed end to crimped fitting (made by Tubes & Hose Inc.) to the inlet on the filter to 3/8" out and ran high pressure hose all the way up to the TBI hard lines.
i also hooked up the speed sensor from JTR. i assume that since there is only one wire coming from my harness and two coming off the sensor that one of those can go straight to ground...
tomorrow will be the big push on the electrical...at this point i'm going to run the fuel pump wire all the way down the frame and splice it in to the stock wiring at the inspection cover or somewhere there abouts...does this sound correct?
thanks for all the help, i'm sure i'll be posting more questions tomorrow...
- Thread starter
- #90
electrical cont...
pics are of the electrical ordeal,...errr, i mean "fun."
i got the computer and miscellaneous fuses & relays mounted. i' ll be giving up the glove box for all that stuff, not that it was worth all that much to begin with.
i think it will come out pretty clean by closing the glove box door and locking it.
pics are of the electrical ordeal,...errr, i mean "fun."
i got the computer and miscellaneous fuses & relays mounted. i' ll be giving up the glove box for all that stuff, not that it was worth all that much to begin with.
i think it will come out pretty clean by closing the glove box door and locking it.
- Thread starter
- #91
it's alive! IT'S ALIVE!!!
well, with work and the holiday and what not i have not been very good about updating...so here it goes in reverse order:
after adding a direct wire from ignition (run & start) direct to the coil (something i had called painless tech support about and was told i didn't need) AND removing and re installing the injectors on the TBI (i must have put them in screwy when i rebuilt the unit long ago) it started right up!!!
that rumble was music to my ears...
anyways, the wiring has been, as you might guess, the biggest ongoing issue. when i originally called tech support at painless the guy told me that the pink wire coming from the computer & harness was the only wire i needed to hook up to ignition (run and start). after consulting the painless instruction manual and the chilton's wiring diagram for the chevy motor i realized that i needed power direct to the coil in addition to the other pink/black wire going to the ecm.
besides that, the other major issues i ran into were:
1) wiring up the brake switch correctly so that the TCC will function properly...painless has a diagram in the back of their manual which is pretty easy to follow and involves adding in a relay or you can try to adapt a chevy brake switch which i didn't think could work on the toyota pedal assembly:
2) the new harness did not come with any park/neutral safety switch wiring or instructions (and neither did the Lokar shift kit) and also did not mention that you need to purchase Painless part # 60122 for about $70 if you want the EGR to function properly and tells the computer when the vehicle is in park or neutral.
currently i am trying to get it back together enough to get it down to the exhaust shop...i put the clutch fan back on it with no shroud to provide some cooling until i get the electric fan mounted and wired...i figure it's cool enough here right now and am hoping i have the temp sensor hooked up correctly to show me if it's getting warm.
well, with work and the holiday and what not i have not been very good about updating...so here it goes in reverse order:
after adding a direct wire from ignition (run & start) direct to the coil (something i had called painless tech support about and was told i didn't need) AND removing and re installing the injectors on the TBI (i must have put them in screwy when i rebuilt the unit long ago) it started right up!!!
that rumble was music to my ears...
anyways, the wiring has been, as you might guess, the biggest ongoing issue. when i originally called tech support at painless the guy told me that the pink wire coming from the computer & harness was the only wire i needed to hook up to ignition (run and start). after consulting the painless instruction manual and the chilton's wiring diagram for the chevy motor i realized that i needed power direct to the coil in addition to the other pink/black wire going to the ecm.
besides that, the other major issues i ran into were:
1) wiring up the brake switch correctly so that the TCC will function properly...painless has a diagram in the back of their manual which is pretty easy to follow and involves adding in a relay or you can try to adapt a chevy brake switch which i didn't think could work on the toyota pedal assembly:
2) the new harness did not come with any park/neutral safety switch wiring or instructions (and neither did the Lokar shift kit) and also did not mention that you need to purchase Painless part # 60122 for about $70 if you want the EGR to function properly and tells the computer when the vehicle is in park or neutral.
currently i am trying to get it back together enough to get it down to the exhaust shop...i put the clutch fan back on it with no shroud to provide some cooling until i get the electric fan mounted and wired...i figure it's cool enough here right now and am hoping i have the temp sensor hooked up correctly to show me if it's getting warm.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #92
more update in reverse order:
can anyone tell me what i'm missing to hook up the kick down cable? i can't seem to figure out how to attach it to the throttle linkage...
is there a better solution than what i'm working with?
i used a Lokar 36" universal throttle cable, but i ended up utilizing the toyota wire because the end fit into the TBI linkage well. i also use the plastic and grommet from the toyota cable that attaches to the firewall on the inside of the cab by cutting it off the toyota housing and drilling it out to accomodate the Lokar threaded end...
can anyone tell me what i'm missing to hook up the kick down cable? i can't seem to figure out how to attach it to the throttle linkage...
is there a better solution than what i'm working with?
i used a Lokar 36" universal throttle cable, but i ended up utilizing the toyota wire because the end fit into the TBI linkage well. i also use the plastic and grommet from the toyota cable that attaches to the firewall on the inside of the cab by cutting it off the toyota housing and drilling it out to accomodate the Lokar threaded end...
- Thread starter
- #93
updates cont...
the upper radiator hose was a bugger to come up with, but after three trips to two different Carquest locations and one NAPA stop i came up with a lower hose: carquest#22433 (with an 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" reducer on the radiator side) and upper hose: carquest#20827 both of which work like a dream...
on the lower side, the water pump i used did not have a heater hose return line so i ended up cutting the hose and putting in an inline "tee" made of copper fittings soldered together from the local plumbing store...i haven't worked the heater yet, but so far no leaks...
the upper radiator hose was a bugger to come up with, but after three trips to two different Carquest locations and one NAPA stop i came up with a lower hose: carquest#22433 (with an 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" reducer on the radiator side) and upper hose: carquest#20827 both of which work like a dream...
on the lower side, the water pump i used did not have a heater hose return line so i ended up cutting the hose and putting in an inline "tee" made of copper fittings soldered together from the local plumbing store...i haven't worked the heater yet, but so far no leaks...
- Thread starter
- #94
cont...
i was able to utilize the ends of the toyota transmission cooler lines to plumb it from the 700R4 to the toyota radiator by splitting the crimped end with the grinder...thus revealing a barbed end with metric fitting that took 3/8" trans cooler rubber hose.
this was a pretty simple solution to get them hooked up to something while i'm figuring out what to do for a trans cooler...the 700R4 end was just a push lock fitting...
and here's a picture of the Lokar shifter installed...it looks pretty sweet mounted to the floorboard. the linkage and shifter "feel" is solid. my only gripes were that the mounting bolts to the floor were way too short and it didn't come with any neutral-safety switch wiring or diagrams...and you have to buy the boot separate...
i was able to utilize the ends of the toyota transmission cooler lines to plumb it from the 700R4 to the toyota radiator by splitting the crimped end with the grinder...thus revealing a barbed end with metric fitting that took 3/8" trans cooler rubber hose.
this was a pretty simple solution to get them hooked up to something while i'm figuring out what to do for a trans cooler...the 700R4 end was just a push lock fitting...
and here's a picture of the Lokar shifter installed...it looks pretty sweet mounted to the floorboard. the linkage and shifter "feel" is solid. my only gripes were that the mounting bolts to the floor were way too short and it didn't come with any neutral-safety switch wiring or diagrams...and you have to buy the boot separate...
From looking at the bracket on the throttle body I think you are missing the small stud that screws into the throttle bracket that the kickdown (TV cable) connects to. You should be able to find that rather easy in a junk yard.
So what grade would you give Painless?
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- #97
i guess since this is my first engine swap and certainly my first experience with after market wiring harnesses i'm not the best person to ask, BUT...
when i told a few people i bought a "painless" harness i always seemed to get this little snicker...and i always wondered what that was about, now i know. the howell harnesses were recommended to me because they come pre-loomed and are supposedly "plug and play." however, i haven't minded the bare harness because i think it allows for more flexibility in customizing the routing and adding in accessories or whatever...the instruction manual seems a little scattered, like they've added people's notes over the years and never edited or consolidated. (like the EGR solenoid that they say is obsolete: they give you a part number but the harness comes with the wrong pigtail so you have to splice in a different one.)
on the plus side, the painless harness with the $100 rebate was by far the cheapest...and every time i called tech support, they were helpful and didn't make me feel like i was asking dumb questions, even though i probably was. the harness itself seems high quality and all the terminals and plugs seem solid.
all in all, i'd probably buy another "painless" harness, it will certainly be helpful having done one now.
I used the painless harness on my truck. I had similar experience. I thought the harness was well made and well labled, I thought the instructions were lacking in some detail. I also became aware of an issue with different year model PCM's within the 5.7 vortec modle year range that caused me a great deal of frustration. As I recall on their harness for 5.7 vortec you can only use PCM's from 96 & 97, you cannot use PCM's from 98 & 99. The painless harness does not interface correctly with the PCM for the 99 year model PCM. This was not explained clearly, if may be a fact of life in dealing with the related PCM for the 5.7 PCM but painless needs to have clear information on this. Of course when you are doing a swap for the first time (like I did) you don't know the questions to ask.
Good point to conisder is to make sure you understand what harness works with what PCM, and exactly what sensors are supported and which ones are not. Make sure you understand if you can delee certain emissions related stuff and or 02 sensors without issue (depending on the engine in quesiton).
Good point to conisder is to make sure you understand what harness works with what PCM, and exactly what sensors are supported and which ones are not. Make sure you understand if you can delee certain emissions related stuff and or 02 sensors without issue (depending on the engine in quesiton).
Updates?
- Thread starter
- #100
update!
well, "fluke" seems happy with her new heart...the motor and transmission seem like a perfect fit in the FJ62: power, size, set-up, etc....
the lokar shifter works & looks great! still need to install the boot.
i'm still having some T/V cable issues. it's mainly my fault in having installed a throttle body spacer which is throwing off the angle of the cable. that and the motor is from a GM Van with a funky throttle linkage...so i ordered one of these:
Bowtie Overdrives - View Item
i got my front driveshaft installed. i think it has enough clearance but without flexing the suspension i guess i won't know if it might knock the bottom of the 700R4...i'll try to get a pic posted.
i had the exhaust shop run 2 1/2" exhaust from the "y" pipe to a high flow cat to a Mangnaflow muffler...i kind of wish it was a little louder, but it's all good.
left to do:
-install the electric fan. (not in a big hurry since it's winter and i have the mechanical in there working just fine for the time being)
-install a tachometer interface to run the toyota tach...will post updates on this.
-i have two gauges to install: oil pressure (i think i fried the oem gauge) and tranny temperature.
-i should probably get a tranny cooler, but i'm waiting to see what the gauge shows...
-button up wiring in the engine compartment...does anyone have a recommendation on a fuse block or "power" center that i could run accessories off of from the engine compartment?
thanks for checking in! let me know if you have any comments or suggestions!
well, "fluke" seems happy with her new heart...the motor and transmission seem like a perfect fit in the FJ62: power, size, set-up, etc....
the lokar shifter works & looks great! still need to install the boot.
i'm still having some T/V cable issues. it's mainly my fault in having installed a throttle body spacer which is throwing off the angle of the cable. that and the motor is from a GM Van with a funky throttle linkage...so i ordered one of these:
Bowtie Overdrives - View Item
i got my front driveshaft installed. i think it has enough clearance but without flexing the suspension i guess i won't know if it might knock the bottom of the 700R4...i'll try to get a pic posted.
i had the exhaust shop run 2 1/2" exhaust from the "y" pipe to a high flow cat to a Mangnaflow muffler...i kind of wish it was a little louder, but it's all good.
left to do:
-install the electric fan. (not in a big hurry since it's winter and i have the mechanical in there working just fine for the time being)
-install a tachometer interface to run the toyota tach...will post updates on this.
-i have two gauges to install: oil pressure (i think i fried the oem gauge) and tranny temperature.
-i should probably get a tranny cooler, but i'm waiting to see what the gauge shows...
-button up wiring in the engine compartment...does anyone have a recommendation on a fuse block or "power" center that i could run accessories off of from the engine compartment?
thanks for checking in! let me know if you have any comments or suggestions!