Yankum Off-Set Winch snatch ring (2 Viewers)

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Anyone have experience using this gear:



Long but interesting video showing how it's used:

 
f55 is the same and cheaper. and available.
these are great and WAY lighter than a regular block
 
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The Yankum has an offset hole, does that make a difference??
 
allegedly but ime, no.
when i was using my f55 it wasn't tuning. rope was feeding across it just like shown in above vids
 
It's a little concerning that the image in the marketing is using it wrong in a dangerous way.
 
The rings are designed to be used in compression, not tension. Sure, you can make them big enough to handle a pull in tension - but it's poor engineering or just made for marketing to the offroad crowd who doesn't know any better. It's about 10 times as heavy as it should be to be strong enough in tension for no benefit. In short - that's a stupid design.

This:
1690387879650.png


Not this:
1690387933714.png
 
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The rings are designed to be used in compression, not tension. Sure, you can make them big enough to handle a pull in tension - but it's poor engineering or just made for marketing to the offroad crowd who doesn't know any better. It's about 10 times as heavy as it should be to be strong enough in tension for no benefit. In short - that's a stupid design.

This:View attachment 3384064

Not this:View attachment 3384065
you should probably watch the vid.
that and not sure if your terminology is off, but it's awful hard to pull anything in compression.
 
I think I see what he is talking about. The load on the ring itself. It's compression on the first pic but tension on the second pic. Still tension on the lines.
if we're talking about minimum diameter, i guess.
the ropes are doing the exact same thing just routed differently.
 
This is basic material science and safety. It's a dumb idea. Edit: Dumb is maybe the wrong word - it's unnecessary, solves a problem that doesn't really exist and to the extent it does has already been solved with a better solution. And it's less safe. If the ring fails in tension - it'll be a catastrophic failure and all the rigging is disconnected and free to create projectiles and/or the load you're pulling will be dropped. If that's your LC mid pull up a dangerous spot, that's bad. In the case of a compression rigged ring - worst case is the ring compresses to failure and the two loops are still holding everything in place. Nothing goes flying. But more importantly - it's very unlikely because you're just compressing an aluminum ring in a way that it is very strong. It would take a lot of force to compress the ring to failure which would typically look like the ring below in compression collapsing from top to bottom perpendicular to the arrows. I've never seen it happen, but I suppose it could happen.

The ring should be in compression. The ropes are in tension.
Compression:
1690389702372.png

Tension:
1690389945101.png



If you need another compounding loop - this is the better way to do it. Lighter, safer, cheaper. I would skip the gimmick and buy a few proper rings.
1690389815317.png
 
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this ring broke the RIGGING at 70k pounds.
but i see what youre saying.


and as mentioned min dia is a thing this co never talks about in their product design.
 
If you really want to nerd out on this - sailboat people are insufferably anal about what are really immaterial changes that cost more for very minor improvements. They're worse than road cyclists. Maybe even worse than me. But by using a spacer to slightly separate the rope on the inside loop it reduces friction and heat by some amount. So why not throw some $$ carbon fiber spacers in your recovery bag too? haha.

1690391246930.png


In all seriousness - the offset ring is probably strong enough for winch loads in tension. It's just not necessary and probably more targeted at marketing than real world use. I would probably use it without too much fear of a failure. I just wouldn't buy it because it's more paying for novelty than adding anything useful. I'm pretty skeptical of the overland farkle in general. I like stuff that is simple, safe, reliable, and cheap. In this case, regular low friction rings seem to hit all the goals for me. Everything is a compromise. There's probably no objectively right answer for most of these things. If it works for you - then it's the right answer for you. Just be a little skeptical of the marketing. There's a lot of nonsense thrown around to sell "safety" in the off-road community.

At some point we're going to see a movement (conveniently led by the seller) that you can't really be safe unless you're actually measuring your tension in real time and calculating all of your loads. So then you'll need one of these on every winch! HOW COULD YOU RIG UP A WINCH WITHOUT IT!?!?! DON'T YOU CARE ABOUT SAFETY!!! :)
1690392370758.png
 
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right, so that spacer is a band-aid for proper min dia.
the f55 ring has that riser in the design as well.
the yankum was redesigned to be overall larger (thicker) to increase that center diameter.

i can't use the center diameter anyway because I have a f55 thimble 🤷‍♂️

you don't already have a tension meter?!?!!


🤣
 
right, so that spacer is a band-aid for proper min dia.
the f55 ring has that riser in the design as well.
the yankum was redesigned to be overall larger (thicker) to increase that center diameter.

i can't use the center diameter anyway because I have a f55 thimble 🤷‍♂️

you don't already have a tension meter?!?!!


🤣
The idea of the spacer in that setup is that you re-orient the ring to use the outer channel and the ring will spin with less friction. They often call them "textile blocks" so they function like a traditional block (only more expensive). When you remove the constriction against the sides of the ring on the rope through the hole in the ring in a normal setup, then the ring will spins easily.

It basically becomes this. It's just a fancy plastic housing/spacer and a low friction ring. Still has more friction than a roller bearing. But I guess it's lighter. In my experience it's not really until you end up at 6:1 or 8:1 block sets that you really want roller bearings. The friction starts to become meaningful then. But that's mostly because you're doing it manually. In an off road winch situation - I don't see friction being a big problem unless a lot of heat builds up and starts melting stuff. Regular old low friction rings are a pretty great tool for lots of uses.
1690396157645.png
 
You need to watch the second video Casey posted as a followup. He discusses minimum diameter, heat dissipation, and shows attempted destructive testing of the ring. This recovery ring has far less chance of failing in tension than any of the rigging that would be used to hook it up. The whole point of being able to put the ring in tension like that is to be able to use the one ring for a compound pulley setup rather than having to use multiple devices.
 

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