Builds xStogiex's 1986 Toyota Pickup 2WD 4 Speed Restomod (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 9, 2019
Threads
1
Messages
33
Location
Clinton, Michigan
1986 Toyota Pickup Standard Cab, Standard Bed, 2WD, 22R, 4 Speed.

So, I have never done a build thread before, or even posted on this forum, so I figured I'd dive right in. I'm sure people love seeing new builds, and it'll be good for me to help keep track of my own progress. I have typically been into building Jeep Comanches but have always loved Toyota trucks. So when I stumbled on my first Pickup, I didn't hesitate to buy it. Yes, I know this is a 2WD, but there's gotta be some love out there for these too!

I had a great reputation with the owner of a local record store, and he had mentioned in passing that he bought a new Tacoma to replace his older Pickup that had stopped running a few years prior. He mentioned he was planning on scrapping it. I asked how much he wanted for it and told me if I give him $175, I could have it. Showed up that weekend and grabbed it. It's a bit rough. Bed has rust holes everywhere. Cab corners, rockers, and floors are rotting out, interior looks like an extended family of rats have lived in it, and even with a new battery, it showed no signs of life. To top it off, the rear brakes seems to be seized so I had to drag it onto a trailer. Anyone else in Michigan (or the rust belt), will probably understand my pain.

The truck: 1986 Toyota Pickup Std Cab, Std Bed, 2WD, 22R, 4spd with 8" rear, 3.07 gears. No A/C, No power steering. No radio, no clock... This thing is definitely a base model probably more geared towards a work truck. 216,000 miles on the odometer.
IMG_2374.JPG


Before I get too far into the pictures and what I've done so far, I want to go over what my plans are. Being that it was a little worse off than the original owner had made it sound, I knew I would have a lot more work ahead of me, but for $175, I wasn't about to complain. After going over everything, I have decided to do a restomod. This is going to end up being a daily driver, but I also want it to be fun to drive. I'm not too picky about going back to absolute stock, but don't want to stray too far from it either. I'm going to strip it down to a bare frame, recoat the frame, inside and out, and then either replace or rehab every part of the vehicle as it goes back together, from the frame down. I want the underside to feel like a whole new vehicle. After that, I'll work on the engine, the cab, decide if I'm keeping the original bed, or making a custom one, outfitting a new interior and then driving it! It's going to be a process as I don't have a full shop, a lift, or every conceivable tool, but I'm not completely new to working on vehicles.

This was September 14th, the day I picked it up. I think my favorite part is the rusty JDM tailgate.
IMG_1865.JPG


Most of the interior is either ripped up, cracked, missing, or beyond repair. Not to mention it has a horrible smell. I was pretty bummed about the interior being so rough, but whatcha gonna do? Did I mention the horrible smell?
IMG_1873.JPG


I don't have a good place to work on it at my house (the city would give me a hard time about having torn apart vehicles in my driveway), but luckily my grandmother has a farm not too far from me, and has graciously allowed me to bring it there to work on.
IMG_1935.JPG


The next day, I removed most of the interior except the dash. Half of the plastics crumbled before I even started to remove them, but I was trying to be careful to save as much as I could. There was probably 10lbs of sunflower seeds, dirt, and who knows what else, all packed into every corner of this this interior. On the bright side, I did find about $3.00 in change, and a silver quarter! $175 - $3.00 = $172. Oh, and a quarter worth about $3.25. Down to $168.75. Not a bad first day.

IMG_1971.JPG
 
A few days later, I was able to get back to working on the interior. Vacuumed, scrubbed, degassed, removed a few dead mice, scrapped unknown substances off the floors, and tried to polish her up. For about 6hrs worth of cleaning it out, it's not nearly as bad as I expected.
IMG_1980.JPG


Cleaned up the exterior a bit too. He must have had this thing parked under a pine tree at some point. It had a layer of sap all over it with dirt and debris stuck to it. Most of it came off pretty easily with a bit of degreaser and a wash. Honestly, I think I went crazy with the cleaning because I was determined to get rid of that smell.
IMG_1994.JPG


My buddy came up to help me work on getting it started. Chain guides are bad. But the chain is still in one piece. We really just wanted to get it to turn over. It had a brand new starter, but found one of the solder joints was broke on one of the connectors. Soldered it back up and it would crank no problem after that. After some coaxing, it eventually fired up and ran on it's own for about 10 seconds. Not going to push it any more, just wanted to see where we stood. Grandma said I could either put it in the barn or in the garage. So it's now in the garage.
IMG_2400.JPG


Now the fun begins. I wanted to remove the bed, fenders, hood, cowl, grill, bumpers, and fuel tank. The font end parts came off with little trouble, but the bed bolts were a nightmare. The bolts closer to the cab were a fight the entire time, but came off ok in the end. The drivers rear bed bolt was rounded and couldn't even get it to budge. It had to be cut out... which was a pain given the location. Got the bed removed and proceeded to remove the fuel tank, and everything else. The frame on this truck is in excellent shape. Being in Michigan, nearly every Toyota Pickup is rusted in half. This thing still has factory coating on it. It'll definitely be worth saving.
IMG_2835.JPG


Cleaned up the frame from the cab back and tied up any loose ends there. Also, cleaned the back of the cab. It was mostly dirt, and grease build up from leaks. These trucks are pretty simple, so at this point my brain just starts going over all the things I want to do in this build. One step closer.
IMG_2941.JPG
 
After removing the bed is when I realized I was going to go all out preserving the frame. It has very little rust, even surface rust. No soft spots, no concerning issues with it. Now that means I need to remove the cab, engine, and everything else. I don't have a lift, no winch, and very few friends into cars in the area, so I was pretty much on my own to remove the cab. I removed the radiator, disconnected the steering shaft, and then labeled all wires, hoses, and cables as I disconnected them. Luckily for me, it was now two days before Thanksgiving and we were going to have extended family over at my grandmas for the holiday. That means I would have a few cousins there to help. With everything disconnected, I quickly built a 2x4 frame to hold the cab off the ground and with the help of my cousins, we lifted it off the frame, and walked it to the wooden frame. Mission accomplished.
IMG_3437.JPG


I will be removing the engine and start then start on rebuilding rear end, all suspension components, bushings, etc. It's now December, so it's definitely colder. Without a heated shop, I'm not sure how POR15'ing the frame will be in such cold weather. Anyone ever paint a frame in freezing temps? And this is where the truck currently stands today. I'm going back in a couple days to do a bit of work.

In the meantime, I bought a parts truck. Guy had this truck listed on FB Marketplace for a few weeks by the time I saw it. He was asking $300, but you had to take the whole vehicle. It's a 1987, extra cab, long bed, 22R, 5spd. Engine ran great with 167,000 miles. Had a clean title, but the frame was crumbling to pieces. It never sold because people kept trying to offer him $100 for the truck, or only wanted parts. He showed me over 50 messages he received about it, but everyone was being a hassle. It was his fathers who had recently passed and the city had been complaining about the truck, so he needed to get rid of the whole truck before he started getting fined. He didn't want to scrap it and wanted it to go to someone that could use it for parts, but said if it wasn't gone soon, he'd have to scrap it. I messaged him and said $300 was no problem and I could be there in a few days to pick it up. He started it up when I got there signed over the title, and now I am the proud owner of two Toyota Pickups. I couldn't believe I was a few weeks late to seeing the truck being posted, and still was the one that ended up buying it. It's not pretty on the outside, but it has a ton of good parts for my build.
IMG_3597.JPG
IMG_3612.JPG


And now the best part about this parts truck... the interior! Unfortunately, it has the short dash tray and more rounded gauge cluster surround, unlike my '86 got from the factory, but this interior is in excellent shape. Assuming they are interchangeable, this truck will give me new doors (with vent windows which will be nice since I don't have AC), a new bench seat with a center arm rest, new dash, door cards, a clock!, new heater controls since mine are mangled, and other misc. trims, etc. I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw the condition of the interior. Besides being a bit dirty and dusty, the dash isn't cracked, and there's barely even any scratches on any of the plastics.
IMG_3611.JPG


I'm going to spray the plastics with a product from Wurth that they no longer make. It's a rubber care product that doesn't contain silicone. I have a friend that works as a sales rep for them down in Maryland, and they had to stop offering the non-silicone version since it's not good for the environment or something. So I have about 10 cans of this stuff and it does wonders on making old brittle plastics pliable again. I'll wipe the interior parts down with this stuff every time I'm out to work on the '86 pickup and after a few times the plastics should be a little better to work with. Once removed, I'll clean, degrease, and then reprotect all the interior pieces. Wrap them up and store them away until they're ready to go into the '86. For the $300 investment on this truck, I think it'll be money very well spent.
IMG_3607.JPG
 
And now I'm all caught up to the present time. I have taken quite a few pictures as I go along, but obviously can't post everything. If you have questions or need help with pictures of a certain part of the tear down, I may have it. I picked this truck up on Sunday and I started this build thread on Monday so I haven't had time to tear into the new truck yet. As of right now, I'm not selling any parts off of either truck until I know what I need or until I get to it, etc. Hopefully this is a good start the the build thread. I'll try to post more detailed progress of the more intense parts of the restoration as they come up. If you have any tips or knowledge to share, please feel free.

Since I just bought this truck pretty much with little thought before hand, I'm now realizing it has a W56 (or W55, I can't make out the tag in the engine bay very well. It's pretty corroded). It is also a 2WD truck. My '86 has a W46. Has anyone done a W46 to W56/5 swap into a 2WD pickup with the 3.07 gearing? I'm curious what your fuel mileage and drive-ability were like. As far as I can tell, it should be a direct swap since both transmissions are 25.5" long, and are basically the same housing. I'll be using either 14" or 15" wheels. The '86 currently has 14" wheels with tires that have less than 2,000 miles on them, so I'll most likely use those.
 
Welcome to ‘Mud! :flipoff2: (That is the official welcome emoji).

I think you’ve got a great project on your hands. The 2wd trucks are great dd rigs. Light, simple and cheap as hell to operate. The parts truck was a great score too. The interior alone is probably worth triple what you paid. The white truck is a 4 spd? I’d drop the W56 in there for sure. The extra gear will be nice to have.

For your POR15 question, can you get a portable heater in the garage? One of those diesel ones you can rent will get it plenty warm, and you’ll only need it for a couple of days.

Loving the thread so far.
 
Nice score on both. Thanks for saving another rust belt mini-truck. Please keep the posts coming.
 
Welcome and Subscribed! Looking forward to watching your progress. I just love seeing these little trucks brought back!
 
Welcome to ‘Mud! :flipoff2: (That is the official welcome emoji).

What he said :beer:

As far as transmissions, I would use the W56 in a heart beat. It's a 5-speed. It's really not much of a swap. Pull one. Install the other. The only thing I don't know is if the W56 is longer. If so I suspect the crossmember from the 87 will solve that.
 
Nice thread! Looks like you got two really nice trucks.

That parts truck is a gold mine and between the two I don't think you would have much problem putting this truck back together. The end result will be awesome. Will be following!
 
Thanks for the "warm" welcome emoji's everyone haha. Hopefully this project doesn't take me too long, but I want to do it right even if it takes a bit longer. I'm not going for a show truck, but want it to be safe and reliable as a daily. Without having unlimited funds, I'll have to find deals where I can, and so far I consider myself lucky with the finds. I wish the frame was savable on the '87 since it is an Xtra Cab long bed, but with this level of rust, it'll have to live on in other ways. It was nearly bending in half on the trailer.

IMG_3595.JPG


As for the W56 swap, it seems like everyone thinks its a no brainer, and I'm starting to agree. Wasn't sure if the combination of the 3.07 gears and the 5 speed would make it a pain to drive in 1st and 2nd gear. Luckily, 4th would be the same, and then have the addition of the 5th gear for lower RPM's at highway speeds. Seeing as both trucks will be taken apart anyway, it won't really be any extra work to do the swap.

I have access to a heater for the garage, but it's an old farm with a garage that only has thin walls and no insulation. As long as I can keep it up to temp for long enough, then it shouldn't be too bad to paint. I'll have to paint it with a brush, and then rig something up to spray the inside of the frame. But I'm sure I won't get to the painting of the frame until January or February with all the holiday stuff coming up soon... so that'll be the coldest months here.
 
As for the W56 swap, it seems like everyone thinks its a no brainer, and I'm starting to agree. Wasn't sure if the combination of the 3.07 gears and the 5 speed would make it a pain to drive in 1st and 2nd gear. Luckily, 4th would be the same, and then have the addition of the 5th gear for lower RPM's at highway speeds. Seeing as both trucks will be taken apart anyway, it won't really be any extra work to do the swap.

I had this brilliant thought. I would just go over to Marlin, find his transmission page, and link it here so you could see the different gear ratios ... and get familiar with the resources at Marlin.

Except, he doesn't list a W46. In fact, he doesn't list 4-speeds after 1983. So, now I wonder what you really have. The only 2WD option I see listed for 1986 is the W55, which does have a lower first gear.

 
Ahh, couple of fish plates and that frame will be just fine!
 
Except, he doesn't list a W46. In fact, he doesn't list 4-speeds after 1983. So, now I wonder what you really have. The only 2WD option I see listed for 1986 is the W55, which does have a lower first gear.

Yeah, that was one of the first places I initially went to look for specs, but most don't seem to list many 4 speeds. From what I understand, the 1986 Std Cab, Std Bed, 2WD, 22R, 4spd trucks were made more as a work truck and came with 5 lug 8" rears, using a G662 axle code (3.07 gear), with a W46 trans. Seems everywhere I have looked, only the 2WD 4spd options came with this special 3.07 gearing, presumably to make highway speeds better on the 4spd. From what I understand (someone correct me if I'm wrong), the third member housing is also a different casting and length than most, so the drive shaft is different than the factory 5 speed 2wd trucks with the same body/frame. I'm new to these trucks, and researching this was driving me batty until I realized this was a unique thing. This is from my white '86 before and after cleanup.
IMG_2926.JPG

IMG_2983.JPG
 
OK, finally made a little progress. December is a bad month to get anything done between holidays, tons of family birthdays, and crappy weather. But, it was oddly warm (almost 40 degrees) and sunny today, so I made sure I took advantage of it. Had the goal of getting the motor and trans out. This motor is going to be rebuilt at some point in the future, but since I picked up the great long bed pickup with a great running lower mileage motor, this motor is just going to get put on to an engine stand and wait its turn. First things first... remove the drive shaft.

Other than a few bloody knuckles and sore palms from bolts that He-man must have put on, it was removed with no hiccups. With how much dirt and rust is everywhere, I figured I'd cover everything up and at least attempt to keep things clean.
IMG_3737.JPG


Exhaust manifold nuts came off easily. I was expecting the worst. It was a Christmas miracle. But, it was short lived. The bolts on the downpipe are barely even bolts anymore due to rust. I figured I could just cut it after the downpipe, but since this is at my grandma's farm and I don't have all my tools here, I forgot nearly every cutting type tool I have. Oh, well. I guess I'll just push the exhaust out of the way and zip tie it to the front control arms. Also removed all the emissions control crap. Thank you Michigan for the lack of inspections.
IMG_3749.JPG


Now that those things are out of the way, it's pretty much time to plan for hoisting the engine. I'm not lucky enough to own a hydraulic engine hoist, or anything like that, and the garage is pretty old and not the strongest built building. I needed to add a few supports to the rafters and a larger cross member to support a chain and block and tackle. Figured it was the cheapest and safest way for me to lift the engine on my own. Anchored two 2x4's vertically to help take the load, and a 4x4 cross member to hold the chain and block and tackle. Picked up this block and tackle for $25. Took about a week to get it, but considering I was too busy to get time to work on the truck, it wasn't a big deal. Seriously, best $25 I've spent. This thing did wonders.
IMG_3751.JPG


I attached the end of the rope to the hitch receiver on my Suburban and drove forward a bit to put some light tension on it. Went to remove the trans mount bolts and they're not budging. Access to them is OK, but not great. Didn't really want to damage anything by forcing it right away so I decided to remove the trans mount mounting bracket below it. I ran out of penetrating oil but I was determined to get this motor out today so I said screw it and tried to remove them anyway. Dumb idea. All 4 bolts sheared off flush with little effort. Good news is; trans mount is now free. Bad news; i'll be trying to extract 4 bolts from the transmission cross member one day soon.
IMG_3772.JPG


Shook the trans a bunch and it wouldn't budge. Double checked every bolt was out, but no go. Decided to just hoist the engine up a bit so I could have a little more room to shake it. Removed the bolts for the engine mounts. One sheared off, but luckily they're a nut and bolt so it just fell out. I don't know how this frame is in such good shape but everything else is failing due to rust. The frame looks worse in these pictures because there's a layer of lose rust and dirt on it. I haven't even cleaned it off yet. Got in the Suburban and pulled forward a foot or two to lift the engine up a few inches. With the engine and trans now floating above the frame a bit, I was able to easily shake the trans. No luck. So I set the one end of the trans back on the cross member so I could readjust... and it popped loose on it's own. Thank you! Lifted the engine up 5 or 6 more inches so the oil pan would clear. Once high enough, I rolled the frame out from under it so I could get the pressure plate and flywheel off. Came off nice and easy.
IMG_3763.JPG
 
Stupid me forgot to buy longer bolts to mount the block to the engine stand, so I just set it on a tire I grabbed from the barn. I originally brought the dolly to hold the trans, but I guess this will make it easy to move the motor until I buy longer bolts. Anyone know what type of bolts I need to buy for this? I know the 4 trans bolts are 17mm bolts, but what thread pitch etc.? I just bought an engine stand from Harbor Freight. I'm learning as I go here, so I'm not too upset. haha

Here it is with the mess I made all cleaned up. It's been a good day overall.
IMG_3768.JPG


Now just a few pictures I took throughout the day. Thanks to my dad too. He ended up helping me out a bunch.

IMG_3777.JPG


Anyone else see this? Still good! The previous owner said he daily drove this until the starter went out. Said it ran good... all it needed was a starter haha. Between this and the timing chain guides being destroyed... good thing I knew I bought this to restore.

IMG_3778.JPG


IMG_3775.JPG


My new block and tackle. May not be the best setup, but worked for what I needed it to do. The pully is good for 2000lbs, so it barely even put stress on it. If you need a cheap and easy way to lift heavy things, definitely get one of these. 7 to 1 lifting ratio. If the rope wasn't slippery with gloves on, I could probably just lifted it with my own body weight.
IMG_3758.JPG
 
Oh, and did a quick wipe down of the interior of the parts truck with that rubber care stuff I had mentioned and put a sunshade thing in it to help keep the UV damage to a minimum while it just sits. I guess I only took pictures of the one door card, but even with a quick wipe down, I can tell this interior is going turn out really nice.
IMG_3784.JPG
IMG_3785.JPG
 
I ended up getting a little time to work on the truck last night. I finished removing the exhaust. I cut the bolts at the cat and just used a hammer to break it loose. Removed the rest of the brake lines and their mounting brackets, the ebrake cables, and any misc. brackets I had time to remove. Of course, being so rusty, a handful of bolts broke. I wiped down the rest of the frame a bit and tried to knock as much rust loose as I could. Being on a farm, mice and other critters like to find whatever they can to keep warm during the winter so I also removed the bench seat from the parts truck and wrapped it in a few layers of plastic to protect it.

IMG_3875.JPG


After removing the old cab mount bushings, the rear driver mount had some rust damage. What's the best way to fix this, or would you just leave it? I have a parts truck, so I may be able to source a whole new mount to weld in, I just don't have a welder.
IMG_3884.JPG


Cleaning up pretty nice so far!
IMG_3874.JPG


IMG_3881.JPG


Last bit of business.. I plan on replacing most of the bolts on this truck, and would like to stay with the JIS hardware if I can't find a better upgrade. But stainless would be nice for some of the non-critical locations (brake line mounts, etc). Very few places carry JIS metric hardware, and the only company I could find that sold kits specifically for Toyota was OverlandMetric, but those were mostly for FJ40's and they don't carry everything in stainless. They do sell some bolts piece by piece however. Anyone know of any other good sources for bolts and other stock type of hardware? I guess I could always order from ARP as well, but they're definitely going to be pricey and would not be stock JIS metric. Do you prefer stock bolts, or whatever works?
 
I have Overland Metric bookmarked. Here is another:

Also, McMaster-Carr has a good selection of metric, including some JIS.
 
I have Overland Metric bookmarked. Here is another:

Also, McMaster-Carr has a good selection of metric, including some JIS.

Perfect, thank you. I'll bookmark those now. I can tell I'll like mcmaster... I'll be like a kid in a candy store looking through their catalog...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom