McMaster is a good company to get to know. They don't have everything, but pretty dang close.
Builds xStogiex's 1986 Toyota Pickup 2WD 4 Speed Restomod (1 Viewer)
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I generally replace anything I can with stainless except where you mentioned high strength applications. If it's available new hardware from Toyota is generally not pricey - but at $1/fastener across a vehicle it adds up. I've been going to stainless for over 20 years and it's so nice to simply back out a fastener that's been in place in the rust belt for 20 years.
McMaster is indeed a candy store for guys. I buy stainless in bulk there. So get a box of say 8mmX1.25X25mm. If I need a 15mm long screw I've gotten really good at cutting off the extra and cleaning up the threads. If McMaster has it in stock in Cleveland and I order by lunchtime it's generally at my door the next day. Yours might come from Chicago which is the mother ship.
I can't believe how clean that Michigan frame is. Nice work keep the updates coming.
McMaster is indeed a candy store for guys. I buy stainless in bulk there. So get a box of say 8mmX1.25X25mm. If I need a 15mm long screw I've gotten really good at cutting off the extra and cleaning up the threads. If McMaster has it in stock in Cleveland and I order by lunchtime it's generally at my door the next day. Yours might come from Chicago which is the mother ship.
I can't believe how clean that Michigan frame is. Nice work keep the updates coming.
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- #23
Awesome! It's good to hear from those that are used to the rust belt. That was my thinking when considering a high grade stainless. It's pricey, but if it helps prevent or at minimum, delay this truck rusting out, it's money well spent. I'm already going this far, may as well do it right. I'll hopefully be ordering some hardware relatively soon. I'd like to have a lot of the parts purchased before I paint the frame so after it cures, I can get to work right away.
I don't know the history of this truck, but I have a feeling it wasn't always in Michigan... or they never drove in winter. But somehow the accessories, bolts, control arms, wheels, and body are all rusted. At least I'll be able to save one of the two trucks from the rust.
Lots of good work here. My hat is off to anyone owning/restoring a Toyota in Michigan.
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- #25
Thanks! I've been extremely busy since about Christmas and haven't had much time to work on it, but will hopefully be getting a few things done this weekend (mainly getting all the broken off bolts removed). I have been doing some research on coating the frame and what is going to be the best option for protecting it from Michigan's obsession with salt. I was looking at using POR15, but think I have decided on using an epoxy. Anything that will keep this thing from rotting out on me in a few years. Anyone have tips on coating/cleaning the inside of the frame? I was thinking about using a brass burner pipe from a fireplace and adapt it to a hose that I can pressurize with with an air chuck and spray the coating on the inside as I drag the hose through the frame. This would give me a 360 degree spray pattern. I've never coated a frame, so this is new territory to me, and may be the worst idea!
That might work but a rigid pipe is going to make it difficult. But why re-invent the wheel?
I've used this on my Tacoma with hot oil treatment yearly over that. I don't have any long term tests - but it sticks to the frame and smells to high hell - which tells me it's good stuff. The long flexible wand and included spray tip are awesome.
I'm a big fan of POR15 when applied correctly and do have it on long term test in salty NW Ohio. I'm a huge fan but I'm sure someone will be along to say it sucks. Personally I think it all depends on the prep and application.
I've used this on my Tacoma with hot oil treatment yearly over that. I don't have any long term tests - but it sticks to the frame and smells to high hell - which tells me it's good stuff. The long flexible wand and included spray tip are awesome.
I'm a big fan of POR15 when applied correctly and do have it on long term test in salty NW Ohio. I'm a huge fan but I'm sure someone will be along to say it sucks. Personally I think it all depends on the prep and application.
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- #27
Fair enough. That looks much easier than my idea. I used to have a powdercoating setup with a 6' oven in my shop, and proper prep always made the difference between a good job and a bad job. I'm sure I'll be the one to over-prep before not prepping enough. If you're in NW Ohio, I'll definitely take your word for it's quality. I'm just a bit south west of Ann Arbor. We had a dusting of snow last night, and they used the salt pretreatment the roads. To bad Toyota wasn't like my 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro I used to have... it had a fully galvanized body that never had a bit of rust.
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- #28
Been slacking and haven't made it out to work on the truck, but decided to take that time to order some parts. Ordered a 2WD poly bushing kit, and new body mounts. The bushing just came in. Opening a box of new parts is always exciting.
After checking over the kit to make sure I got everything, the 18mm sway bar kit got me thinking... Anyone have experience in swapping out the 18mm sway bar and torsion bars for 23mm, or even a 25mm on the 84-88 trucks? There's an awesome write up on how to do this on the Toyota Minis forum:
How To Improve your suspension and sway bars 2wd 84-94 | Toyota Minis
Anyone here ever swap them? It seems like it's going to be hard to find a 25mm setup, especially since I want to stay with stock Toyota parts, and these seem to have been only used on the 1-Ton and dually models. I've driven plenty of track cars, and I love the stiffer feeling in the turns. Think it's worth trying to source a 25mm, or just do a slight upgrade to the much easier to obtain 23mm?
After checking over the kit to make sure I got everything, the 18mm sway bar kit got me thinking... Anyone have experience in swapping out the 18mm sway bar and torsion bars for 23mm, or even a 25mm on the 84-88 trucks? There's an awesome write up on how to do this on the Toyota Minis forum:
How To Improve your suspension and sway bars 2wd 84-94 | Toyota Minis
Anyone here ever swap them? It seems like it's going to be hard to find a 25mm setup, especially since I want to stay with stock Toyota parts, and these seem to have been only used on the 1-Ton and dually models. I've driven plenty of track cars, and I love the stiffer feeling in the turns. Think it's worth trying to source a 25mm, or just do a slight upgrade to the much easier to obtain 23mm?
Awesome thread so far! I also have an 86 2wd pickup that I am working on, same drive train as well with the W46 and 8” 3.07 rear. Looking forward to more updates!
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- #30
Thanks! It may take me a little bit before I get some significant work done on it with the winter and other obligations, but I've been taking the time to research and order more parts. How do you like your '86? If it is road worthy now, what kind of fuel mileage are you getting? I haven't been able to move mine under it's own power since I bought it, so all my estimations are based purely on calculations and comparisons with other builds.
I only recently acquired the truck so I can’t speak to fuel mileage yet. It is road worthy but I plan on doing some work before I begin to daily it. Redoing most of the front end (control arms, ball joints, bushings etc) as it is quite rusted out. The frame is in surprisingly good condition, similar to yours.
Maybe you’ve already come across this site or something similar but I found ToyoDIY.com useful for part numbers and such.
I prefer, though sometimes it doesn't list the part for the year, or an old part number. But, most of the time it's spot on.
parts catalog toyota, original catalog toyota, online catalog toyota, Car catalog toyota
parts catalog toyota, original catalog toyota, online catalog toyota, Car catalog toyota
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- #34
I recently found out my upper control arms are rotting out. I accidentally put a screw driver through one trying to scrape some flaked rust out of the edge... so those are definitely getting replaced. I've been trying to find a good source for the 2WD upper control arms, but I seem to only be finding eBay listings for generic ones... which I would like to avoid. I really wanted MOOG, but would settle for Mevotech or factory ones. I found a few sources for the lower control arms, but the uppers for a 2WD seem to be hard to find. I may just be too picky! I'll scour the sites you guys gave for them as well as the other suspension parts.
I just went through the upper control arm thing and I had the same issue. I ended up settling for eBay and ordered some earlier this week as I couldn’t source them anywhere else. The lower control arm shaft/bolt and the torque arm are the other parts I’m having trouble finding. I’m sure they will be reusable but it would be nice to have them in the event I damage them upon disassembly. Don’t want to be up the creek without a paddle.
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- #37
I still haven't bought new ones yet, so I'll definitely check Bonanza out. I tried to purchase some great condition used Toyota ones from a guy on Facebook, but after he kept giving me the run around and pretty much refusing to take any payment but PayPal Friends & Family, I backed out. When I said I'd pay with Goods & Services he acted all offended. I may have to just bite the bullet and buy cheapo ones. The weather here has pretty much given me limited time to work on the truck since it's not in my garage, but the moment it warms up I'll be going full force again. I'd like to have new control arms and steering components before then.
Anyone use a Harbor Freight 12-ton press? I was considering buying one since they're pretty cheap. It'll be twice as expensive to pay a shop to do the wheel bearings as it would be to just buy the HF press and do it myself. As long as it'll last long enough for me to do a few things with it, that'll save me tons of headache.
Just grab the 20 Ton. You'll be glad you did for the few extra bucks. Mine has been awesome. The only thing that could go bad is the bottle jack which is replaced really cheap. But I've been using mine for 12-14 years.
I quit paying people I didn't know as friends and family after a guy screwed me and PayPal wouldn't refund me since it was sent to a "friend or family member".
Now I send everything as goods with services and add 2.9% on top of my payment to cover the seller's fees. Cheap insurance for me.
This! The 12k arbor plates are crap... Get the 20 ton.
