Best calipers (1 Viewer)

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RFB

97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
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what is the best upgrade brake caliper set up for an 80? I took it thru MOAB up Imogene pass yankeeboy basin and it climbed every single thing i pointed it at not a prob, they only issue I have is even with new reman oem calipers rotors and pads its stop when i get around to it, Im in the middle of 8000 round trip and want tpo go serious on brakes its a perfect set up(once the slee springs,arms go in) the way it sits this thing is a beast. do great on mountains climbing etc just dosent like to stop, im thinking brembo brakes all the way around. even with the RTT the rack fridge tools spares and rear drawer Oh and that 37 on the spare tire carrier it is perfect on trails, she climbed up a 13 ft rock face on imogene that a similar much lighter fzj w 37 had trouvble twice she rolled right up havent used fr/rr lockers yet

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I put man a fre 7 piece stainless steel braided lines, new oem remaned calipers and ebc green stuff pads and rotors. I have not had them on long, but I’ll tell you with 315’s and driving 55, if I slam em on, it stops in two car lengths. I am VERY impressed. Now that’s not weighted down or prolonged braking, so that’s all I have for you, but I always thought braking was really good in these things.
 
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Have you modded your LSPV? If not that your first stop ◄haha pun

I dont have ABS and I have no problem locking up all 4 using all OEM on all brake stuff.

I have found 80 brake do not like the traditional pump n dump bleeding, vacuum bleed for best results.
 
I haven't seen any BBKs for the 80, but I did use this on my truck, NAPA remanufactured calipers and these https://smile.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes...ie=UTF8&qid=1507034621&sr=1-1&keywords=DP7992 pads. They are not the regular EBC greens, and they help the truck stop amazingly, a world of difference to standard pads. Slotted rotors can also give you additional aid with the EBC supremes. Lastly, use some Superblue brake fluid, will boil at much higher temps and allow for more brake cycles before the mushy pedal fee.
 
upgrading to the 100 series helps, more friction materiel surface area and they fit in the 80 calipers.

adjusting or eliminating the lspv will help a lot. i got rid of mine since it was all rusted out and i wasnt spending the 150 for a new one and the truck stops way better. the truck is much more controlled under heavy braking now, no more wagging its tail like a dog any more
 
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Keep the OEM calipers at all four corners.
Keep the OEM rotors.
Install 100 series EBC greens in the front and 80 series EBC greens in the rear.
Replace the LSPV with a union.
Bleed the system.

Enjoy modern braking performance out of a 6000lb Cruiser.
 
Keep the OEM calipers at all four corners.
Keep the OEM rotors.
Install 100 series EBC greens in the front and 80 series EBC greens in the rear.
Replace the LSPV with a union.
Bleed the system.

Enjoy modern braking performance out of a 6000lb Cruiser.

Do you have pictures of that "union" that you used?
 
Have you modded your LSPV? If not that your first stop ◄haha pun

I dont have ABS and I have no problem locking up all 4 using all OEM on all brake stuff.

I have found 80 brake do not like the traditional pump n dump bleeding, vacuum bleed for best results.

I read this a lot, but I just flushed /bled half a gallon of new fluid through my system with the 2 man pump and bleed method and I can lock up my 33s in a heartbeat.

I think as long as you bleed in the correct order, hold the LSPV open as you bleed, and cycle the ABS when you're done (then repeat the process) it works just fine.

That being said I suppose a pressure bleeder would be faster...and my girlfriend would like me more.
 
If I'm not mistaken (I'm researching braking issues myself) in one of the threads where someone who replaced the LSVP with a proportioning valve, they referenced using a 90deg elbow off of the deleted brake tubing to join the two remaining lines. The tubing that runs from the LSVP to the front of the vehicle is what is removed.
If I can find the thread again I'll try to post the link.
 
Sorry, haven't figured out how to post the link yet but if you search for this thread, he explains the process and references the elbow to use. Hope it helps.

Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by jcardona1, Oct 28, 2013.
 
Have you modded your LSPV? If not that your first stop ◄haha pun

I dont have ABS and I have no problem locking up all 4 using all OEM on all brake stuff.

I have found 80 brake do not like the traditional pump n dump bleeding, vacuum bleed for best results.
Yea Ryan in Colorado was showing the steps to pulling the ABS and he also did your Upgrade to the LSPV Ill try them both.
 
Keep the OEM calipers at all four corners.
Keep the OEM rotors.
Install 100 series EBC greens in the front and 80 series EBC greens in the rear.
Replace the LSPV with a union.
Bleed the system.

Enjoy modern braking performance out of a 6000lb Cruiser.
explain union, im a plumber and think I get what your saying./
 
Not a union like black pipe union. Just a plain old fittin' to join the 2 lines. If/when you go about deleting you'll end up with a spare fittin that us just what you need.
Handy right.
 
Below are the union and the brake fitting attached to the T under the master cylinder.

The union, if I remember correctly, is an M10x1.0 inverted flare. I picked the union up from Autozone. There are a pair of brake lines from the front of the truck attached to the LSPV. Once the LSPV is removed, the top brake line goes to the union. The bottom brake line (attached to the bottom of the LSPV) is the sense line.

Trace the bottom brake line from the LSPV to the front of the truck and remove it from the frame mounts. There is another T attached to the top of the frame. It is removed as well. The sense line is connected to the left side of the T under the master cylinder. I cut the line and removed the fittings. I welded the hole in the fitting and reinstalled it on the T. Finding a M10x1.0 inverted flare plug both at the autoparts stores and online was almost impossible.

Screenshot_2017-10-11-18-47-55.jpg


Screenshot_2017-10-11-18-44-50.jpg
 
You can delete the ABS & LSVP with no extra parts needed & just basic tools. I'll be doing mine Friday in the search of decent brakes as well.
This thread is a bit easier than the one posted earlier:
Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to...
 
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Keep the OEM calipers at all four corners.
Keep the OEM rotors.
Install 100 series EBC greens in the front and 80 series EBC greens in the rear.
Replace the LSPV with a union.
Bleed the system.

Enjoy modern braking performance out of a 6000lb Cruiser.
I already installed terrain tamer rotors all around. and the front calipers are reman and Im going to swap in reman rears and then the green pads. thanks
 

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