Can one of those quickjacks be used with jackstands to increase the overall working height? Is the platform large/flat enough to for a 6ton jack stand to sit on top of it? Or would that be really stupid?
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I understand the desire but IMO that would be pretty unsafe. Nothing is bolted to the floor and now you’re stacking another none anchored thing to it. The taller it gets the the more unstable it becomes. The stance is wide so knocking over would probably be pretty hard but I still wouldn’t want to be under it. Maybe bolting something to it to get another 12” height might not be too risky. Or maybe stacking 2 or 3 2x8s would give you a bit more but I’m sure whatever docs come with it would say never do that.Can one of those quickjacks be used with jackstands to increase the overall working height? Is the platform large/flat enough to for a 6ton jack stand to sit on top of it? Or would that be really stupid?
There are detailed dimensioned drawings on their website of the frames, but I would say NO that would be a bad idea. I mean, ya maybe you could fab up something to widen the top so the jack stand would fit, but at that point you really should be using something different if you need that much height.Can one of those quickjacks be used with jackstands to increase the overall working height? Is the platform large/flat enough to for a 6ton jack stand to sit on top of it? Or would that be really stupid?
This thread has got me thinking about actually getting the 2 post lift I have always just dreamed about. I’m thinking something like a BendPak XPR-10XLS but only because Jay Leno owns one, I don’t know squat about lifts.
I’d have a range of vehicles from a Corolla and a Rav to a taco and Tundra in addition to the 200. From what I’ve read an asymmetric lift isn’t good with short wheel bases. I like the idea of asymmetric style making it easier to open doors but I’ve never used one. If I’m going from Corolla to Tundra, do I need to stay with symmetric?
No, you don't need to stay with symmetric. For the last 25 years I worked in a school shop that had both style lifts. The vehicles on the symmetric arm lift were always a PITA to get in and out of. The asymmetric arm lift was a PITA 5% of the time, but always doable. Just get the asymmetric lift, especially if you're not a thin guy. The 130# kids could squeeze out the driver's door of either lift, when I needed to get out of a car on the symmetric lift it wasn't exactly graceful.I like the idea of asymmetric style making it easier to open doors but I’ve never used one. If I’m going from Corolla to Tundra, do I need to stay with symmetric?
No, you don't need to stay with symmetric. For the last 25 years I worked in a school shop that had both style lifts. The vehicles on the symmetric arm lift were always a PITA to get in and out of. The asymmetric arm lift was a PITA 5% of the time, but always doable. Just get the asymmetric lift, especially if you're not a thin guy. The 130# kids could squeeze out the driver's door of either lift, when I needed to get out of a car on the symmetric lift it wasn't exactly graceful.
Yes, heavy end towards the short arms. In order to make it easier to open the door, sometimes you can pick alternate lift points and get the whole car shifted towards the rear a little bit extra so that the drivers door swings further open before hitting the lift post. Sometimes you can just get by with offsetting the whole car to the passenger side of the lift by a little before setting the arms. Sometimes I just gave up and put the skinniest kid in charge of positioning the car on the lift because they could just climb out the window.@KenB how do you put vehicle on lift?
We always have it so the engine/weight is on the short side, for lack of a better term.
I have two different sizes 1/2" and 3/8" of the AC Delco one. I grab them for most everything except high torque applications, lugnuts or when I can't fit the bulk in the available space. I know many pros say that unless you have a very expensive frequently calibrated wrench it is bad, but I've had good luck with them.What's the skinny on electronic torque adapters versus old fashioned clicky torque wrenches?
Asymmetric. Need 12’+ ceiling clearance. Do overhead cable, not floor. Floor mount creates an obstruction when trying to remove transmission and transfer cases. Need 4000+ psi concrete floor with at least 4” slab. I would do 6”.This thread has got me thinking about actually getting the 2 post lift I have always just dreamed about. I’m thinking something like a BendPak XPR-10XLS but only because Jay Leno owns one, I don’t know squat about lifts.
I’d have a range of vehicles from a Corolla and a Rav to a taco and Tundra in addition to the 200. From what I’ve read an asymmetric lift isn’t good with short wheel bases. I like the idea of asymmetric style making it easier to open doors but I’ve never used one. If I’m going from Corolla to Tundra, do I need to stay with symmetric?
Good luck meaning you haven't had a wheel fall off yet, or good luck in that you've had them tested and they're still showing correct torque? I've got 3 torque wrenches for different ranges/applications, but I often wonder if they're still calibrated correctly or if the *click" is just to put my mind at ease. Not even sure how to check.
Good luck meaning you haven't had a wheel fall off yet, or good luck in that you've had them tested and they're still showing correct torque? I've got 3 torque wrenches for different ranges/applications, but I often wonder if they're still calibrated correctly or if the *click" is just to put my mind at ease. Not even sure how to check.
I've had good luck with Bendpak in the past.
Asymmetric. Need 12’+ ceiling clearance. Do overhead cable, not floor. Floor mount creates an obstruction when trying to remove transmission and transfer cases. Need 4000+ psi concrete floor with at least 4” slab. I would do 6”.
Here’s one wayGood luck meaning you haven't had a wheel fall off yet, or good luck in that you've had them tested and they're still showing correct torque? I've got 3 torque wrenches for different ranges/applications, but I often wonder if they're still calibrated correctly or if the *click" is just to put my mind at ease. Not even sure how to check.