Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (11 Viewers)

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Anyone know who that Otramm guy is who has the recent Toyota knuckle rebuild job on youtube? Its been my go to video... his lighting and explanations throughout are very helpful.
 
Slow but steady, I’m getting there bit by bit. Doing stuff I’ve never done before, having fun and building confidence.

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My new brake pads didn’t come w/ shims/anti rattle plates nor did the calipers. And my old calipers appear frozen. I hadn’t tried prying them open to pull the old pad (literally no pad left, just the backing plate) out. ** No shims w/ my old pads. They were Toyota tho, man did I get the life out of them! I should have shims right? Would seem my old ones might be crap at this point eh? Just buy new? No shim or plates for new.

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What was your source for those long line nuts?

They look nicer than one can usually find
 
Got them at Napa, P/N 6413320. Bought that line and nut kit you pointed me toward too. But while making the line I got foggy on making the inverted flare so they walked me through the rest of the process. While I was there and he was showing me inverted versus bubble, I bought those nuts.
 
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Number one buttoned up.
Number two started pulling apart about noon. Not even 4pm and everything is apart and ready for cleanup.

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FYI, once I’m done w/ the driver side I’ll change the TREs. I’m well aware the passenger side steering arm still has the wrong nut on it. I tell you, the driver side was a complete wench to let go unlike the passenger side. I beat the snot out of it w/ my 2lb BFH and the puller. Took a lotta wacks.

Oh and new brake line made by me....

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Also another great trick I’ve followed off YouTube was using my brass hammer to tap the edges of the free wheel hub to loosen the cone washers. I left the lock washers and nuts on loose and tapped all around the edge. Once I noticed the cone washers popping out a little, I wedged a small flathead in between and then gently pried out. Way way easy.

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Discovered I was an ass and I put the wrong caliper on the passenger side. God fawking fawk.
 
Damn
 
Bleeder screw at the bottom is a clue.
Yeah well this stuff doesn’t come naturally.... like Jason said above, second time around goes much smoother. Hence the pulling apart the driver side knuckle. It only took me a very short few hours... in between a beer, music head nodding breaks and cursing loudly from whacking my hand and then my shin. Swore I thought I’d done in my right thumb base muscle. One of these days arthritis is gonna kick in hardcore. I’ll remind you all, other than the upper and lower nuts on the knuckle I’m doing all of this by hand, no air. Lots of long stretches of pipe work great for cracking the nuts. I’ve got a battery operated impact wrench but apprehensive to use too much force on some parts.
 
The biggest "group" on this forum would be those of us that have done things at least twice in order to get them correct, or to satisfy our own personal standards.

Welcome to the group.
 
This is seriously the best for rust/paint removal. I love it.
Paint is going on number 2 hub. First one I did the same so figured I’d better follow suit incase the color got blended funky. Gold then dark gray hammertone Rustoleum.

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