Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass

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Broke it as in opened up the system, or broke it for real?

If you broke it for real, I've just made a bunch of new brake lines and can walk you through it.
 
Yup it snapped off right behind the nut. I mistakenly loosened the caliper off the disc then realized I had to do the line (w/ a flare wrench like you told me) so slipped it back on the disc... tho it wasn’t secure and when the nut loosened the caliper slipped back off the disc and the weight broke the line. Or now that I look. Could be the nut didn’t loosen and the line gave way.
Lesson learned.

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That corrosion will be a challenge! I know you'll be up to it. If it's just the small line on the caliper, that is available and cheap. That's a good one to break.

But with that much rust, I'd look over the existing lines very carefully. Toyota used regular mild steel tube for all the brake lines even the long ones and they rust. Replace any that are questionable. I switched over to this new copper/Nickel brake line that is easier to flare than steel, easier to shape, and is corrosion free for ever.
 
Good to know. Yeah it’s ugly in there. I’m going slow. Using a trick afroend taught me when he helped me do the CV axles on my Nissan, tighten a little first then loosen. So far it’s been working.
And apparently I was already running 1/4” spacers and still my dust boots on the tie rods were being eaten up. Whoever had done all that def half assed it.

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I really don’t want to go to work. But I adore my supervisor and she’s be so screwed and upset if I did. Adulting sucks.

Gotten pretty far.
I’ll say I loath cone washers. I got them per the fsm. 2lb sledge and a brass rod. But in the driverside I’ll go w/ @mwebfj60 trick w/ two nuts.

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Wanted to add a few pix of the bearings which were Koyo.

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Sacrificed the rubber brake line that was already cracked and seeping when I got a closer look. I’ve got MAFs steel lines ready for replacement anyhow.

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Good work. Looks like a cold day for wrenching!

Spindle looks pretty good.

Hope you're replacing TREs. That one without a castle nut and cotter pin is no bueno.

PB Blaster is your friend here. Spray down everything that's going to come apart. Especially the TRE threads into the rod. For whatever reason, those are the worst!
 
Yup I’ve got new thanks to @Jaric00n. I wondered about that nut. Seemed odd that it didn’t have a cotter pin.
It’s cool at 44 degrees but I’m often wearing a hat and scarf cuz I have no hair, by choice. ;)
Im gonna slip a bag over the end of the spindle. Don’t know if I have too but been trying to keep a lot of crap from landing on it so it doesn’t get scratched.
 
How polished is polished? I’m feeling good enough. Far better than the before.

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Looks fine to me. I have seen guys go to crazy extremes for smoothness-coating with JB weld, sanding and polishing back to an original smooth surface. Waste of time in my opinion. The grease and rubber seal, covered by the felt isn't exactly an exact fit to start with, and a little pitted surface on the ball isn't going to change anything.

The wheel bearing pics back a bit look like the bearing has been spinning against the back of the spindle. Likely your bearings have been loose for some time. You're getting new ones right? If the old ones don't look too bad, keep as trail repair spares.

Look at the lower sides of your spindles carefully on the bearing lands. If you can catch your fingernail on the edge where the bearing rides, especially the outer one, consider replacing the spindles. They are a wear item and if they get too worn, the bearing preload will not hold it's setting and drive you crazy over time. I know $$ is an issue, but it's all apart now and Cruiseroutfitters sells new aftermarket spindles at a fair affordable price.
 
^^^ Guy above you pointed that ring out too. I contacted another friend as well and after cleaning I can feel a wear line but my finger nail barely dips into it.
And yes I have the full knuckle kit from Georg.
 
A full days work and top it off I was being paid for it. :)
So my hub and the disc were darn snug and very well held together. W/o a press nor a vice quite deep enough I devised a way to separate the two. Lots and of penetrating and ATF mixed and a whole lot of attitude w/ my great grandfathers totally hardcore cast iron prybar made them let the f go.

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FYI, I was very gentle prying them apart and kept spinning the disc to do it in small increments. Chuckling, @CenTXFJ60 Jim called me when I sent him the photo. I could tell me was a tad nervous seeing what I was doing. :)
 
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Got the races and bearing out of the hub w/ that obnoxious seal. I’d ordered tools from HF last week and they’ve yet to show up, apparently they’re in route from Indiana which seems so absurd. If I’d realized they’d tale that low I would have driven to the store. So I got the seal out again w/ a ton of attitude and determination.
For the little one in the knuckle I chose to simply go to Napa cuz I didn’t want to chance marring up the edges.
Decided while I cleaned up it was time for a much deserved Yuengling.
Mucho thanks to @CenTXFJ60, Jim for helping and listening to me problem solve today via text and phone.
All you guys are the best.

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In that HF order should be some punches... so w/o them I found my longest extension fit perfect for tapping out races from the knuckle and the hub.

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@Cruiserdrew not as well arranged a photo as yours but here’s all my stuff laid out.
And interesting that the knuckle has a fill plug?

It was pretty cold when I started this AM around 8:30 so the “soup” was more of a stew.

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Nice work. There not much that a BFH and attitude can't fix. Parts look to be in pretty good shape - especially where seals ride as well as the surface outboard of the Birf where the axle rides in the bronze bushing.

Speaking of - I hate to bring it up - but are you going to inspect the bronze bushing in the spindle? Mine were way worn out which will wipe out axle oil seals in no time. They are spendy and a MFer to get out without the proper tool (which I don't have). Mine came out in pieces with a lot of pounding with various pry-drivers. Someone here surely has a better method.

I'd say you've earned a 6-er of Yeungling!
 
Super progress! Looks like it should.

The grease actually looks decent and not contaminated.

Check the brass bushings inside the spindle and look for out of place wear. That one birf shot shows more wear on the surface than you normally see but it might be an illusion from the grease and the cold.

Good on you for changing out the wheel bearings. They are likely original, and maintenance was uncertain, so new bearings will set you up for a long run.

But look hard at your existing spindles.
 
Derrrr, I would periodically come inside for a break and look at the fsm on the kitchen table. It wasn’t till I closed up shop that I noticed a bushing mentioned IN the spindle that gets pushed out. Gah.
I did spend a fair amount of time w/ a flat razor gently scraping the papery gaskets from top and bottom of the spindle. I admired the bronze eyeball looking part on the end which honestly looked pristine. And inside the crisscross again, looked pristine.
@Prairie Swamp.... I thought you weren’t a rule follower, why’d you have to go and pop my happy bubble?! Just teasing. Snow coming ahhhhgain tomorrow so I won’t be getting much done plus I pick up the kid in the AM.

FYI, you all, I’ll be 44 Wed... what an interesting way for a woman to spend her birthday eh? I was so in my zone today.
You all said this is a rite of passage but after all I went through w/ my daughter and then having my son at home, this is a cakewalk, sorta. :)
Thank you to all of you who pitch in w/ encouragement, tips, tools, parts and a belief in me. Best birthday ever.
 

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