Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ginmtb
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
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- #362
Hey so I'm getting to the point where I need bolts - I know that a person on MUD has put together kits in the past and will likely do another order. However it sounds like it will be quite some time before they are available.
I've also seen other posts on here that have SS bolt kits available for a pretty nice price. They're just not the JIS head apparently. I'm thinking of going this route vs. waiting. See any downside to that? I'm not doing a frame off restoration to sell this thing - I plan on keeping it and driving it. I know I will need to do the anti-seize thing on the SS nuts and bolts (I'm doing that anyhow to any existing ones). And I know the heads don't look the same and they are different sizes requiring swapping out of sockets. They sure are purdy though...
Thanks for your feedback!
Oh and looks like my cat has found a new bed...
I've also seen other posts on here that have SS bolt kits available for a pretty nice price. They're just not the JIS head apparently. I'm thinking of going this route vs. waiting. See any downside to that? I'm not doing a frame off restoration to sell this thing - I plan on keeping it and driving it. I know I will need to do the anti-seize thing on the SS nuts and bolts (I'm doing that anyhow to any existing ones). And I know the heads don't look the same and they are different sizes requiring swapping out of sockets. They sure are purdy though...
Thanks for your feedback!
Oh and looks like my cat has found a new bed...
my thoughts on the bolts: i personally really desire to have the JIS heads on everything. i hate swapping from 12 to 13mm sockets all over the truck. and i like uniformity. SS will be longer lasting, but finding SS with JIS cheap enough is nearly impossible. its really just the 8mm bolts that are the issue though. i have been replacing with SS as ive been going along, and ive replaced many many bolts on this sucker. as for the "look" with the indented head, i could care less. oh right, the other hang up. i really want the sem bolts with the integrated lok washer. i wouldnt buy a bolt kit without them, but thats me.
gato likes the baja covers, eh?
gato likes the baja covers, eh?
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #364
So was able to muster up some energy and got the broken trailer hitch off the bumper. Boggles my mind that there are four bolt holes for a trailer hitch and they decided to weld it on instead... And that was one thick chunk of metal plate!
As much as I tried not to touch the bumper with my grinder it was nearly impossible. Will do a little skim to cover up the blemishes.
I picked up a practically new step from a fellow MUDder and once I figure out my bolt thing I will do some painting and get all this stuff installed!
Next weekend I hope to finally get back to the rear fenders and get those primed after working on my skimming technique.
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As much as I tried not to touch the bumper with my grinder it was nearly impossible. Will do a little skim to cover up the blemishes.
I picked up a practically new step from a fellow MUDder and once I figure out my bolt thing I will do some painting and get all this stuff installed!
Next weekend I hope to finally get back to the rear fenders and get those primed after working on my skimming technique.
...via IH8MUD app
I have the same problem on mine :/ but there was another bumper at one time and it was wielded on. And there's 8 bolt holes plus the 4 in the middle don't know y any wielding was done. I have a conifer bumper/hitch on it now that bolts on with 8 12mm bolts. I went with drilling the bolt holes out and putting in grade 8 bolts and washers for safety reasons. But I need to drop the bumper about 2 inch for clearance on my tail lights.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #367
My dash has a strange protrusion all of a sudden:
Well we'll see how well this thing works. Since my speedometer is off thought it would be nice to have something that is more accurate and then I'll get a better sense of my gas mileage too (last check on mileage was 9.9 mpg - my speedometer is at least 10%, maybe 15% off with the larger tires).
The magnet on the back of your phone has it's pluses and minuses. But makes for a clean install. Curious to see how it handles a big jolt.
App is called appropriately, Speedometer. Lots of bells and whistles and excellent ratings. Look for this image in the App Store:
No affiliation btw. Just sharing a pretty nice app!
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Well we'll see how well this thing works. Since my speedometer is off thought it would be nice to have something that is more accurate and then I'll get a better sense of my gas mileage too (last check on mileage was 9.9 mpg - my speedometer is at least 10%, maybe 15% off with the larger tires).
The magnet on the back of your phone has it's pluses and minuses. But makes for a clean install. Curious to see how it handles a big jolt.
App is called appropriately, Speedometer. Lots of bells and whistles and excellent ratings. Look for this image in the App Store:
No affiliation btw. Just sharing a pretty nice app!
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #368
Okay did some minor stuff tonight. Took out my cracked rubber cowl drain hoses and installed some new rubber hose - went with the cheap $6.99 bicycle tube solution I read about on MUD.
Tested it out and it worked great! The passenger side hose wasn't even connected and the drivers side had huge cracks in it on the inside of the cab. So that should help with the water intrusion!
I also decided to swap out my transfer case boot only to find there is an inner boot that was pretty toasty. And of course discontinued. So I'm trying to repair mine with some flexible rubber sealant. It is really good stuff I use to fix inflatable boats and to reattach soles on boots, etc. We'll see if it works. Going to need a couple of coats.
I'm also checking out other options. If I find something that works I'll post. Seems like people have made up solutions but have specified what they did.
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Tested it out and it worked great! The passenger side hose wasn't even connected and the drivers side had huge cracks in it on the inside of the cab. So that should help with the water intrusion!
I also decided to swap out my transfer case boot only to find there is an inner boot that was pretty toasty. And of course discontinued. So I'm trying to repair mine with some flexible rubber sealant. It is really good stuff I use to fix inflatable boats and to reattach soles on boots, etc. We'll see if it works. Going to need a couple of coats.
I'm also checking out other options. If I find something that works I'll post. Seems like people have made up solutions but have specified what they did.
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this company in AUS is the only place in the world that i know of who is remaking the inner boot
http://www.tojo4wdcentre.com.au/par...r-landcruiser-40-45-60-70-75-series-9-73-9-85
http://www.tojo4wdcentre.com.au/par...r-landcruiser-40-45-60-70-75-series-9-73-9-85
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #370
Thanks for this info! I imagine shipping on this thing is a big spendy from Australia. It is small and light though...
I'm going to put another layer of the rubber sealant on mine - I think that is going to work. Probably a thin layer on most of it to reinforce it. $7 fix if it works.
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What's the patch stuff look like. I've got a couple rubber parts that I would like to try and save similar to you. That looks like a good and functional fix.
I've got to also fix a previous owner cb hole myself
Your 40 is looking good. I like to read your updates
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I've got to also fix a previous owner cb hole myself
Your 40 is looking good. I like to read your updates
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
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- #372
Thanks for the nice comments!
The patch stuff is really good stuff - it is called Freesole:
https://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/freesole#10405
It's flexible, good resistance to heat, and a pretty darn permanent fix. It is shiny when it cures.
I usually get the larger tube (still pretty small). I didn't realize it also comes in black so that may be preferred. I'm going to purchase some of the cure accelerator though as it takes a long time to dry and runs on slanted surfaces. The accelerator makes it tacky in 15 minutes and fully cured in 2 hours.
If you need super flexibility the Aquaseal stuff can be folded after it cures!
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Cool repair. Got any details as to how you added the flange to the top? Or a link to where you found it on Mud?
pipernd
SILVER Star
Dumb question but....what's the button above tour "protrusion"? I have it as well. Figured it was aftermarket and I have never touched it.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
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- #376
That button is actually not a button but the brake light. I believe it is for when your brake fluid is low. I've never seen mine illuminated since my brake fluid is fine. I'm assuming if you broke a brake line or hose and fluid drained rapidly it would turn on.
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Thanks dude, but I meant the piece to the top of the hose to prevent it sliding back down once inserted into the cowl. Lol
The stock ones have a flat top with the hole cut in it.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #378
Interesting as my stock ones were installed from the bottom like I did. So you're saying the drain tube is installed from the top and inserted into the hole and the fed down? I'm confused. Sorry. I wonder if my year has a different one - mine doesn't feed down to the tranny hump like some I've seen. Mine takes a bend and then heads through the firewall.
Sorry for the confusion.
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That's cool man, no sweat. Mine are fed down from the top. Perhaps the USA spec trucks aren't. How did you hold the rubber hose in, or does friction do that?
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
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- #380
Friction is pretty good but then you got me worried so I put a zip tie around it. Not too tight just enough to give it a little extra tightness on there. Of course now the vibration will end up causing the zip tie to cut through it and it'll leak all over lol. I was going to try a hose clamp but you'd have to be a contortionist it think to pull that off.
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