Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (5 Viewers)

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Great advice for sure! I don't plan on going too crazy on this 40. I want to enjoy it and not have it sit in the garage. I plan on driving it into the office on Fridays and then have some fun on weekends too!

Here is my initial plan:

- clean engine compartment and underside to help identify the leak and then fix the leak

- change out cracked windshield

- install disc brakes - any kit recommendation? There are many out there just wondering if anyone can share their experience

- fix exhaust

- fix temp gauge

- new headlights

That should be plenty for now. Luckily I have room in my budget since I got such a good deal. I do like the thought of making it as stock as possible and thankfully I don't have a ton to do to do that. Basically I need to repair the cut fenders and get new wheels/tires. I was told too a 2" lift would be nice to have with the taller tires that are stock size.

Eventfully I may consider reupholstering the seats but they're certainly passable right now.

Overall though I consider myself very lucky for getting what I have. I won't take that for granted.


...via IH8MUD app
 
I vote for CCoT patch panels, vs. replacing the entire rear quarters. You will need welding skills either way, but the less of the Toyota you disturb, the better. I used P***l brand rear quarters and they were a big fat mess - mostly with door and hardtop fit, but the fenders were massively inaccurate in many dimensions. After installing one quarter, I just patched the other side.

As others have said, fix and enjoy and let the bodywork go for a while.
 
Sounds like a good plan.

For the headlights, I installed H4 E-code headlamps, and added another fuse box to add relays into the circuit. That was a huge improvement on the stock lighting.

I've flip-flopped over a disc brakes conversion for a long time, it was actually one of the first things on my list after reading everyone's opinions about how great they are (that and power steering). After driving it for a while, I'm still debating whether the cost is worth the gains. I know a lot of people love their disc brakes, but since my drums are still working fine I don't really have the motivation to swap out working parts. The stock brakes are strong enough to lock up my wheels, and when adjusted properly they stop straight. It's still on the back of my mind to do it if I can find a cheap donor axle, but for the most part it's not really a high priority anymore. If I was commuting daily in the cruiser I'd probably do it, but my uses are similar to yours, it's mostly a weekend fun car, or a few times during the week depending on the weather.

For seats, unless you're set on keeping it stock, you might want to look at aftermarket seats. I threw on cheap seat covers until I swapped to late model Corolla seats because I wanted the adjustability and comfort of more modern seats.
 
Again, congratulations Mike! This is even better than the pictures you sent to me earlier! What a great find and you got it for a great price!
 
Great 40, great story! I got mine and it looked super clean but these had rust from the factory, so I replaced the whole sill just to make sure I wouldn't have to deal with it later.

I agree with not ripping into it too quick and enjoy it. I drove mine a week before ripping it apart and didn't get a chance to enjoy it.

After almost 2 years I'm almost done with my nut bolt restoration.

My thread is "Another 77 resto" for reference, good luck!


...via IH8MUD app
 
Nice 40 and Welcome.

Yup driving it makes me smile! Just such a fun car - as you said, some people just don't get it (like my wife). And that's cool, just don't rain on my parade. ;)

My wife was on the fence when we gt our 71. I don't think she liked it at first, but now she loves it. We go on tons of rides in the summer. You just need to get the top off it and go cruise around. Once she rides around in it with the top off she will start to like it. MTCWOA
 
Man, that's a great looking 40. Gratz!
 
I got every thing I needed for my rear disk brake conv. Baring a few compression fittings. From poser for about 280 plus a set of 2000 s10 calipers from a junk yard (free) and a 20 dollar set of pads.
image.jpg

image.jpg
Tho you will need brake fluid and an adjustable prop valve on the rear line off the master cylinder summit has them for around 40 bucks. But you can go with a master off of a 76/40+ or a 60 or 80 series even a mini truck but you have to have the newer more powerful booster I have the btb brake booster with the gm 1 1/8 bore master cylinder and it was about 400 shipped. And it bolts in, no mods
image.jpg

And you can pick up a set of 60 or 62 outers for about 250-350. You just need to grind a touch of metal of the housing to fit the slightly bigger birf in. Or if you can find a pair of outers from a 9/75-80 fj40 it'll be a perfict fit
 
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I have a complete 76 front axle that will bolt on to your leaf springs but I think shipping would kill that deal. Tho I would rather sell the complete rolling chassis
 
I vote for CCoT patch panels, vs. replacing the entire rear quarters. You will need welding skills either way, but the less of the Toyota you disturb, the better. I used P***l brand rear quarters and they were a big fat mess - mostly with door and hardtop fit, but the fenders were massively inaccurate in many dimensions. After installing one quarter, I just patched the other side.

As others have said, fix and enjoy and let the bodywork go for a while.

I have friends who can weld for me and they are motivated to help! So the body work may happen sooner than later (welding party on 5/31!). I only want to do two things - fix the rust and remove the fender flares and get the fenders back to stock looking. So I'm going to go with the patch panels that are just for that purpose. Hopefully it works out how I'd like. But that will speed up other things as well - for instance, I don't think my wider tires will clear that repair (or at least it will be dang close and any major bump might put the repair in danger) so I will need to get the stock rims and tires sooner too. And then to accommodate those tires I've been told a 2.5" lift is the way to go. So that'll have to be done as well. I do have some money to do this stuff fortunately. But ultimately I want to make sure I get the leak all taken care of. Sounds like that might be more involved than I thought it might be.

But I do plan on keeping it running during this process so I can keep enjoying it for sure! Thanks!
 
Sounds like a good plan.

For the headlights, I installed H4 E-code headlamps, and added another fuse box to add relays into the circuit. That was a huge improvement on the stock lighting.

I've flip-flopped over a disc brakes conversion for a long time, it was actually one of the first things on my list after reading everyone's opinions about how great they are (that and power steering). After driving it for a while, I'm still debating whether the cost is worth the gains. I know a lot of people love their disc brakes, but since my drums are still working fine I don't really have the motivation to swap out working parts. The stock brakes are strong enough to lock up my wheels, and when adjusted properly they stop straight. It's still on the back of my mind to do it if I can find a cheap donor axle, but for the most part it's not really a high priority anymore. If I was commuting daily in the cruiser I'd probably do it, but my uses are similar to yours, it's mostly a weekend fun car, or a few times during the week depending on the weather.

For seats, unless you're set on keeping it stock, you might want to look at aftermarket seats. I threw on cheap seat covers until I swapped to late model Corolla seats because I wanted the adjustability and comfort of more modern seats.

Can you send me a photo of your setup? I haven't driven it at night so I don't know what the lighting is like. But if the windshield wipers and brakes are any indication, it probably isn't great... :)

I wish I could lockup the wheels with mine. They work, but I definitely have to be more aware of my surrounds and keep a good following distance to ensure enough time. Downshifting helps too! Could be I just need to change out the hoses/fluid - I will check all that stuff out before I drop the money on discs. But from everything I've read, it seems like the brakes are difficult to keep in adjustment. Discs are pretty much a no brainer. But you're right, the amount of driving I'll do on this car is somewhat limited and maybe that'll do just fine. I will get the welded stock rims though just to make sure they'll work if I do change it out.

I'm trying to keep it stock so I will keep the existing seats - I'm trying to track down some headrests but something tells me that is going to be tough to find - who is going to break up their seat?
 
Again, congratulations Mike! This is even better than the pictures you sent to me earlier! What a great find and you got it for a great price!

You've been with me since almost the start of the search! Thank you for your support. I wondered for awhile if it was ever going to happen, and well, being patient paid off! Hopefully when I get this thing more long distance road worthy we can connect maybe in Tahoe and do some wheelin'! (well, nothing too extreme lol).

Welcome back! Hope you had a great trip!
 
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Est. buying every thing out right for my disk brakes. I got $1250 that's new calipers front and rear along with new pads
But I got 2 parts trucks over the years that have paid for them selfs a few times over so that has helped keep the cost down.
 
Great 40, great story! I got mine and it looked super clean but these had rust from the factory, so I replaced the whole sill just to make sure I wouldn't have to deal with it later.

I agree with not ripping into it too quick and enjoy it. I drove mine a week before ripping it apart and didn't get a chance to enjoy it.

After almost 2 years I'm almost done with my nut bolt restoration.

My thread is "Another 77 resto" for reference, good luck!


...via IH8MUD app

Wow! That is an amazing build you're doing there - if I could've chosen any color cruiser that would be the color. It seemed pretty nice when you first bought it. But when that thing is done it is going to be even more beautiful!
 
I got every thing I needed for my rear disk brake conv. Baring a few compression fittings. From poser for about 280 plus a set of 2000 s10 calipers from a junk yard (free) and a 20 dollar set of pads. View attachment 892033
View attachment 892035 Tho you will need brake fluid and an adjustable prop valve on the rear line off the master cylinder summit has them for around 40 bucks. But you can go with a master off of a 76/40+ or a 60 or 80 series even a mini truck but you have to have the newer more powerful booster I have the btb brake booster with the gm 1 1/8 bore master cylinder and it was about 400 shipped. And it bolts in, no modsView attachment 892036
And you can pick up a set of 60 or 62 outers for about 250-350. You just need to grind a touch of metal of the housing to fit the slightly bigger birf in. Or if you can find a pair of outers from a 9/75-80 fj40 it'll be a perfict fit

I'm thinking I want to keep the front end stock so I'm thinking a bolt on kit. In the HIGHLY UNLIKELY event I sell this thing, I want it to be easily changeable back to stock. I've seen some front kits for about $550. Yes, more than some of these other solutions but simpler and it can be converted back to stock easily.
 
You've been with me since almost the start of the search! Thank you for your support. I wondered for awhile if it was ever going to happen, and well, being patient paid off! Hopefully when I get this thing more long distance road worthy we can connect maybe in Tahoe and do some wheelin'! (well, nothing too extreme lol).

Welcome back! Hope you had a great trip!


Thanks Mike! Had a great time - going again soon!

Glad to have helped - would be nice to actually meet you one day!

Have fun!
 
Okay did some recon work underneath to see if I could see more about this leak. See photos - it appears the majority is coming from the center of the photo 8509. As I mentioned, I'm a total newb so I don't know what this is - but I need to read up on a thread I found about common leaks on these things. If you guys could edumacate me a bit too that would be appreciated. I see a tiny oil leak off one of the bolts on the oil pan, but it doesn't look like much is coming off that. The previous buy did mention though he loses about a quart of oil between oil changes... Thanks for your help! I'll start doing my homework later but I've been told enough cruiser stuff I have to watch a movie with the family lol.

IMG_8507.JPG


IMG_8509.JPG


IMG_8514.JPG
 
Great advice for sure! I don't plan on going too crazy on this 40. I want to enjoy it and not have it sit in the garage. I plan on driving it into the office on Fridays and then have some fun on weekends too!

Here is my initial plan:

- clean engine compartment and underside to help identify the leak and then fix the leak

- change out cracked windshield

- install disc brakes - any kit recommendation? There are many out there just wondering if anyone can share their experience

- fix exhaust

- fix temp gauge

- new headlights

That should be plenty for now. Luckily I have room in my budget since I got such a good deal. I do like the thought of making it as stock as possible and thankfully I don't have a ton to do to do that. Basically I need to repair the cut fenders and get new wheels/tires. I was told too a 2" lift would be nice to have with the taller tires that are stock size.

Eventfully I may consider reupholstering the seats but they're certainly passable right now.

Overall though I consider myself very lucky for getting what I have. I won't take that for granted.


...via IH8MUD app


GinMbt, don't be lazy !, put on top of your initial plan list, " polish the total truck myself "

Show your happiness of owning it !

:cheers:
 

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