Build Won a '74 40 on a coin toss...
- Thread starter ginmtb
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- #42
Floor pans are in good condition - I'll try to get some shots of under the floor mat. I did include one shot above of under the driver's seat. Some surface rust only.
The only bad spots are the two rear quarters and one of the ambulance doors. Front doors are good at the bottom.
...via IH8MUD app
The only bad spots are the two rear quarters and one of the ambulance doors. Front doors are good at the bottom.
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #43
Here are some shots of the pans and one of the fuel tank. Other than where the driver's heel wore through the mat, the rubberized material (sound insulation?) is pretty much intact.
Great score, I hope you kept that coin !!
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- #45
I bought them and they look great! I will be installing them shortly. Also, The "surface" rust on your rear sill is probably all the way through. You might be able to get away with not replacing the whole thing, but you the horns are definitely gone. Looks great amigo!
Assuming your mileage is 130-140K, you generally need to replace the oil pan gasket. The curved portion tends to leak.
Rear main seal can also leak, but that is best done when you replace the clutch.
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- #48
Cool! I'd love to see the process so if you could take photos that would be greatly appreciated!
So I've seen these "horns" you speak of when people do a full sill replacement. Is it possible to replace just the horns or is that not possible? Like I've said before, I'd like to keep the body work to a minimum if I can. The sill between the horns is so beautiful I'd hate to remove that. Thanks!
Since I'm going to have to have work done on this area, should I cut back some metal to take a look and see what it looks like underneath?
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- Thread starter
- #49
Great I really hope that is all it is. My friend thinks there is an exhaust leak also and fortunately his dad is a retired muffler guy and still has a shop where he does stuff for friends to keep him busy and mostly out of trouble in retirement.
- Thread starter
- #51
Pictures available ?
There's no missing my truck because of underpowered stock ones lol you can hear them about 3-400 yards away. Plus they sound bad ass. I do how ever have a set of air horns (not installed) that would be even better with the fat tires if we wanted to increase the redneck appeal roflmao and I may put them on if I ever put a pair of air lockers in lol
Check out cruisercrap in the vendors section. They make a custom shifter knob that you can put the quarter in "tails" up. That would be a great reminder.
Excellent rig you picked up. Get to know your ride before you take it apart to fix stuff up. The, "while I am here I should fix it" syndrome has been know to cause many a frame off.
Excellent rig you picked up. Get to know your ride before you take it apart to fix stuff up. The, "while I am here I should fix it" syndrome has been know to cause many a frame off.
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- #55
Hey so I poked around the rear sill/horns area and took some photos as best as I could. The horns seem pretty much intact - seems like if I cut out the rust on the quarters it will expose I think pretty solid horns. Then after welding on the new metal I will hit it up with POR15 as best as I can.
It's a bit tough to tell in the photos. I thought there was a big clump of metal on the shelf of the horn but turns out it was just dried up MUD...
It's a bit tough to tell in the photos. I thought there was a big clump of metal on the shelf of the horn but turns out it was just dried up MUD...
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- #56
I will check that out - that would be pretty cool.
Yes, I have tons to learn - thank you for that advice! I've done a ton of home remodeling and I prefer the "do it right the first time" approach. That's not to say I do it right the first time all the time... lol
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My restoration is in my signature. I see your updated picture and I agree your horns look okay. Not a complete hole all the way through. You will have to dig in and see what's up. I would take a wire wheel to it and see how deep it goes. You might be able to get away with a small patch, avoiding serious metal work.
- Thread starter
- #58
Dang Adam I looked at your build - really sucks that your 40 wasn't as advertised. But you look like you're doing some great work and in the end it's going to be a kicka$$ 40 and you will know it is done correctly. I'm looking forward to following your thread!
- Thread starter
- #59
Here it is! Put the quarter with tails up instead of the beer cap... 
This has to be done, doesn't it?
http://www.cruisercrap.com/shifter/index.html
This has to be done, doesn't it?http://www.cruisercrap.com/shifter/index.html
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- Jan 6, 2003
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X2. I know you're excited to jump in and start fixing everything, I think we've all been there before. But fix whatever needs to be done to make it safe, then drive it for a year or so before you do any major work. You'll probably change your mind ten times on what you want to do with it, and stuff that bothers you now will probably be forgotten as new stuff that you never even thought of comes up. I went through the same thing when I first bought mine, I had the front end stripped down to the frame within a week of getting it, thinking I had to fix every little rust hole and rebuild everything. After almost a year I realize I had barely driven the thing, so I put it all back together and have been enjoying it for the last decade. Most of the stuff that I wanted to do either no longer bothers me or is a much lower priority than before. Had I continued down the original route it'd probably still be in pieces in my driveway