ARCHIVE Wits' End 80 Series OEM Bumper Mounted Rear Tire Carrier (formerly AJIK)

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I have one of the last AJIK units from 2015. Mine arrived in august, I think. I love it! Very well build and designed. Mine came powder coated black. I've had to do touch-up a few times, but not bad.

My only feedback on the whole thing is very minimal. It's about the pin that holds the carrier arm in both the open and the closed positions. The trouble with it was that the pin too perfectly fits the hole it rests in. Any rust or road grime and that pin is nearly impossible to move. A few times, I had to use a punch and a hammer to release it. The easy solution for me was to drill out the hole just a little. No trouble ever since.
 
This would be exactly what I'm looking for. I can't wait to see what you come up with!
 
no problem, will grab it and take a pic as soon as I get home from work......I still have to figure out a way to light it up in its offset position, without being too crappy looking

ok, so I have had to work until after dark every day since I posted that I would grab a pic of the bracket that came with my tire carrier from ajik, since I haven't seen daylight I just took some crude pics at 6 am so I apologize for the poor pics in advance
pic1 shows how far to the left the bracket will move the plate, and pic2 shows the bracket [aluminum bar, really] laying on the bumper
VanGo, in the last group buy thread indicated that no additional lighting was necessary but im not sure about that yet, but it does seem as if I can get a universal license light and just extend the wiring from the original light

disregard the plastic wrapped around the aluminum bar, it came raw aluminum, and my powdercoater wrapped everything I had him do [ I took him a few mt bike pieces as well]

tire carrier license bracket pic 4.webp


tire carrier license bracket pic 5.webp
 
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Ok so after speaking with the fabricator I have come up with a few FAQs:

Will it use a stainless latch?
This is a sourced Component, not be an issue but I am open to suggestions on the type used. Personally I love the one that is on my IPOR rear tire carrier but I would like to here other thoughts.

Can the spindle be cut longer?
The current spindle started at the bottom of the lower tube and the housing went to the top of the upper tube. Was working with what was off the shelf but If I am making the parts it can be designed to what ever is needed but not sure what this will resolves or improves.

Can you add a teflon pad for latch pin to ride on?
This is a Stainless Steel Plate that is cut out. It was mounted with (2) drive screws in the middle and can see where the plate could fold up on the original design. The mounting holes can be added or moved to the outside edges where the pin drops in the hole. That would cure that issue. The pin was sourced and it had a fairly square shape end. That will instead be machined with a radius on the end to stop that from catching.

Machined cap for the spindle cover with O ring seal or gasket?
This will indeed be part of the next run.

Possible welded or nutserts to add options down the road to work on budgets?
I will be sourcing stainless nutserts of various sizes. Need to decide where they will be placed but open to suggestions.

Isn't DOM is overrated for the the Tire carrier tubing?
DOM is a good material, typically someone says DOM and someone's pants gets tight. That being said a 1-1/2 Round Tubing die is easier to cut and make that bend than to cut, bevel, fit, weld vs a 160º bend. I can see if I can get a seamed tubing VS a DOM, would pull out some cost.

Anything that can be stainless, like the latch, probably should be?
Agree. Anything that makes sense to use stainless I will. Otherwise it will be coated/plated high strength bolts.

The ball, used to grip the pin to pull up on it, was a bit too large on the original design.
No Problem, I am sure I can get a smaller ball of I could move that out from the spindle to allow more clearance.

Are the plastic pads white or black?
Some of them used a White UHMW others used Black. Going forward they will all be white.

Will everything be plated or coated?
Yes, nothing will be raw steel UNLESS I decide to make a DIY kit and that has not been decided yet.

Will you have a license plate holder?
I will have a standard replacement which is no frills that just moves the plate over. I will offer an upgrade that moves the plate to the spare tire with a quick-disconnect harness.

Any chance you will include bottle opener cut into the steel?
Sure, included :P

Can you move tire inward just enough to clear the corner light with 35”?
Gonna keep the tire where it was to not crest over the centerline of the vehicle to allow for things to be added to the other side. For those wanting to mount accessories, you'll appreciate the extra room.

What are some of the accessories you are considering as add-ons?
-Hi-Lift Mount (For use with Hi-Lift ALL cast or Extreme jack only, not compatible with the cast/steel, other recovery jack systems.)
-Antenna Mount (tab w/ground screw)
-Ladder (bolt-on)
-Can carrier (bolt-on)
-Yeti carrier (bolt-on)
-License plate relocator w/light (mounts inside tire)
-DIY kits? (uncoated and unwelded)
-Light mount tabs
-MaxTrax holder (bolts onto ladder)
 
I am VERY interested in this solution. Like, right friggin' now interested.

I'm finalizing details so I can get started on this asap. Its looking very likely that I *might* be able to either modify to work on the 100 as well or at least only need to modify ONE piece to get it to work for the 100s.
 
I have the Aussie version of this from kaymar if you're ever interested in seeing how they did it.
 
Ok so after speaking with the fabricator I have come up with a few FAQs:

Will it use a stainless latch?
This is a sourced Component, not be an issue but I am open to suggestions on the type used. Personally I love the one that is on my IPOR rear tire carrier but I would like to here other thoughts.

Can the spindle be cut longer?
The current spindle started at the bottom of the lower tube and the housing went to the top of the upper tube. Was working with what was off the shelf but If I am making the parts it can be designed to what ever is needed but not sure what this will resolves or improves.

Can you add a teflon pad for latch pin to ride on?
This is a Stainless Steel Plate that is cut out. It was mounted with (2) drive screws in the middle and can see where the plate could fold up on the original design. The mounting holes can be added or moved to the outside edges where the pin drops in the hole. That would cure that issue. The pin was sourced and it had a fairly square shape end. That will instead be machined with a radius on the end to stop that from catching.

Machined cap for the spindle cover with O ring seal or gasket?
This will indeed be part of the next run.

Possible welded or nutserts to add options down the road to work on budgets?
I will be sourcing stainless nutserts of various sizes. Need to decide where they will be placed but open to suggestions.

Isn't DOM is overrated for the the Tire carrier tubing?
DOM is a good material, typically someone says DOM and someone's pants gets tight. That being said a 1-1/2 Round Tubing die is easier to cut and make that bend than to cut, bevel, fit, weld vs a 160º bend. I can see if I can get a seamed tubing VS a DOM, would pull out some cost.

Anything that can be stainless, like the latch, probably should be?
Agree. Anything that makes sense to use stainless I will. Otherwise it will be coated/plated high strength bolts.

The ball, used to grip the pin to pull up on it, was a bit too large on the original design.
No Problem, I am sure I can get a smaller ball of I could move that out from the spindle to allow more clearance.

Are the plastic pads white or black?
Some of them used a White UHMW others used Black. Going forward they will all be white.

Will everything be plated or coated?
Yes, nothing will be raw steel UNLESS I decide to make a DIY kit and that has not been decided yet.

Will you have a license plate holder?
I will have a standard replacement which is no frills that just moves the plate over. I will offer an upgrade that moves the plate to the spare tire with a quick-disconnect harness.

Any chance you will include bottle opener cut into the steel?
Sure, included :p

Can you move tire inward just enough to clear the corner light with 35”?
Gonna keep the tire where it was to not crest over the centerline of the vehicle to allow for things to be added to the other side. For those wanting to mount accessories, you'll appreciate the extra room.

What are some of the accessories you are considering as add-ons?
-Hi-Lift Mount (For use with Hi-Lift ALL cast or Extreme jack only, not compatible with the cast/steel, other recovery jack systems.)
-Antenna Mount (tab w/ground screw)
-Ladder (bolt-on)
-Can carrier (bolt-on)
-Yeti carrier (bolt-on)
-License plate relocator w/light (mounts inside tire)
-DIY kits? (uncoated and unwelded)
-Light mount tabs
-MaxTrax holder (bolts onto ladder)


This entire post is making me laugh. Really appreciate all the detail and crowd sourced opinions you put into everything you create.

You are a much more patient guy than I. If I had the ability I'd just make the fxxxing thing :flipoff2:
 
This entire post is making me laugh. Really appreciate all the detail and crowd sourced opinions you put into everything you create.

You are a much more patient guy than I. If I had the ability I'd just make the ****ing thing :flipoff2:

I'm a perfectionist, overtly OCD, and I hate hearing complaints. I have better things to do with my time then listen to complaints. So if I get it right the first time I'm golden :P
 
I'd like to see any of the designs in person. Even if it's Kaymar. Are you in the area? I'm in West Hills.

I'm in Pasadena. Often in Burbank as well.
 
I need to do a vendor pick up in Pasadena one of these days soon so that might work out.
 
I read through this thread out of order but did anyone mention angling the tire to hug the rear hatch better than the vertical orientation in the original design?
 
Joey, I think this is a great idea. I have not seen one in person and do not own one yet, but have considered doing my own.

Having just seen the drawings at the beginning, I have a couple questions/concerns.

Is the entire weight of the swing out and spare tire hanging from those two bolts on that one ear of the square C shaped piece that bolts to the crossmember? If so, I would bet that the ear will deflect/deform over time. A help would be to either weld a plate across the entire top of the C or at least triangulate it on both upper and lower corners.

I use a wheelchair lift on mine all the time and it has a few safety features that may help here without adding hassle and cost....Maybe.... I'll try and get pics and send to you. I haven't figured out how to do it directly from my phone.

How much weight do you anticipate this to be able to carry? The wheelchair lift will carry a 500 lb chair (but you cannot swing it with the chair on it.)

You can also look into 6 axis laser tube cutting to do a partial triangular cut to allow a bend and weld on the rectangular tube.

FYI my wheelchair lift is a Harmar AL500. Do a lookup on their site to begin with.

Make sure you spec welding to AWS D1.1 code (minimum) fir 3/16 + wall thickness and possibly with full penetration welds for safety sake. Don't know if the lawyers would require any NDT on the welding. (Radiography, dye penetrant)

Good work!
 
my only input would be why did AJIK quit making them other than they just didn't want to anymore, and are those issues rectified?

I could see a small foot step near the center too.
 
my only input would be why did AJIK quit making them other than they just didn't want to anymore, and are those issues rectified?

I could see a small foot step near the center too.

probably like every thing else, it takes a few $ to make these.....I was part of the group buy after they were sold out on the website, and we almost didnt get enough people in that one, but after it was closed a few more wanted in......it was a great option for me as I didnt want to cut off my rear crossmember or wait the year plus it seemed like for anyones rear bumper option at twice the cost. the bolt on swingout only was the best fit for my needs, and at 900$ give or take shipped was also the best deal I could find [ for a 35" tire capable swingout ]
 
It seems the spare is blocking both the license plate and the taillight on whichever side its installed. I feel like that presents a safety issue when it comes to braking and other drivers reacting.
 
Comparing Options:

Will it be less than $815 in Raw Form?


IMG_8019.webp


Wait! I need a hitch!
 

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