With the shortage of fusible links...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Three pages... Three pages of my life that I can never get back and not once did anyone talk about the torque specs of the coil wire. Before anyone posts, no not where it connects to the swivel felt capacitor. We all know that you have to use a vice press brake on that end. I am of course talking about where it conjoins with the catalytic injector seal. I am so confused. I was thinking that we were here to help each other. Not attack every poster with a prison style shower assault. Maybe in the future we could just post a picture of our Johnson next to a known size Toyota part. Lika a distributor or air filter. Bonus inches, or centimeter for posters overseas, if you post the part number and reputable parts supplier that the part was ordered from. Rock auto counts only if the part is Denso or Asin. Or just a good "yo mama is so fat" response if you disagree with someone. Because we all know that red Toyota water disperses heat better then green auto zone water. That's just science, and that is my two cents on where many of these posts go.
 
Fusible links are a weak point; skip that bs. A hard wired solution is what all the cool kids are doing.
 
fuse link.webp
 
Last edited:
^^^^^ Haha.....!

When my Older Brother was about 7 years old he did that exact thing (Electrical Outlet) but with a pair of tweezers. I was standing right there when he did it. Maybe tweezers back in 1960 weren't too good....but the tips of those things (probably 3/8") just vaporized amidst the sparks, smoke and noise.

We thew what was left of the tweezers away, but there was no hiding the black marks on the outlet cover, especially since it was on the bathroom counter. Of course, the fuse for that circuit was blown too. They had old screw in type back then. When my Mother found out...we had to 'fess' up. A fairly robust belt whipping followed that....and I didn't even do it....I was just a spectator. And then those dreaded words "just wait until you Father gets home".

Man......the waiting and worrying was almost as bad as the actual punishment (another belt whipping). These days that would probably be 'Child Abuse' and get you thrown in jail.
 
^^^^^ Haha.....!

When my Older Brother was about 7 years old he did that exact thing (Electrical Outlet) but with a pair of tweezers. I was standing right there when he did it. Maybe tweezers back in 1960 weren't too good....but the tips of those things (probably 3/8") just vaporized amidst the sparks, smoke and noise.

We thew what was left of the tweezers away, but there was no hiding the black marks on the outlet cover, especially since it was on the bathroom counter. Of course, the fuse for that circuit was blown too. They had old screw in type back then. When my Mother found out...we had to 'fess' up. A fairly robust belt whipping followed that....and I didn't even do it....I was just a spectator. And then those dreaded words "just wait until you Father gets home".

Man......the waiting and worrying was almost as bad as the actual punishment (another belt whipping). These days that would probably be 'Child Abuse' and get you thrown in jail.
My mom told me a story of how she stuck a fork in a toaster to get out her toast when she was a kid....woke up across the room. I've never doubted that electric current dosen't care about you, so respect it.

I love the can do attitude of DIY modernizing the fusible link system, but for a mere mortal like me, I'll keep running the fusible link because I shudder at the thought of a fire in my rig, and I am not comfortable with modding the electrical failsafe system. I had no issue obtaining mine from an online vendor as a pair back in August, one to run and one as a spare.

@Desertmedic80, did you post your question and irritation to the right thread of angry responses? You seem confused.
 
Never did I say I was a parts expert and never will be.

I did correct my original post hopefully to appease you. There was no intention on passing of misinformation, the idea behind the post was to merely get people's opinion on the idea of that replacement for the fusible link. If you or anyone else took it as there was a chance the FL would or is NLA sorry.

Thanks for the original post. It's exactly what I've been looking for to complete my battery set up.
 
Never did I say I was a parts expert and never will be.

I did correct my original post hopefully to appease you. There was no intention on passing of misinformation, the idea behind the post was to merely get people's opinion on the idea of that replacement for the fusible link. If you or anyone else took it as there was a chance the FL would or is NLA sorry.
It's ok.

You're like Studebaker back in the day. You're so far ahead of your time, you don't even realize it. (And neither does anyone else)

You have a great idea, asking legitimate questions. It's just the world isn't ready yet.
 
Getting this back on track. It’s been lost in the ensuing discussion. @OffRoadScott, you provided a good alternative for OEM replacement which is awesome. Like that Toyota is moving to midi fuse approach. Thanks for sharing. Very much appreciated!
 
Getting this back on track. It’s been lost in the ensuing discussion. @OffRoadScott, you provided a good alternative for OEM replacement which is awesome. Like that Toyota is moving to midi fuse approach. Thanks for sharing. Very much appreciated!

Thank you for understanding the point behind the original post. I am excited about this option and the other things this company has been doing to "add" to the kit.
 
i like the setup, looks like it would be fairly easy to install and adding the small fuse block by the battery is useful if you need to wire something hot all the time. cost is pretty reasonable for what your buying, blue sea is quality stuff
 
Are the ampere ratings shown for the fuses or the conductor size? The information under the node appears to have been added afterwards. The reason I ask is that I believe a fusible link will not have a true ampacity rating other than one that is shown to protect the conductor insulation (I don't know and is the reason why I am asking). That rating (insulation) is far lower than when a conductor will actually fuse. A small conductor, as an example may be rated for 30A (to protect conductor insulation) and a fuse rating (melting point of the conductor itself). Depending on the amount of current available (short circuit current which is essentially based upon the size/output of the battery).

The ampere rating of the conductor (before the conductor insulation is damaged) would not only be based upon the conductor diameter and conductor type but the insulation rating, the ambient temperature, as well as other environmental conditions. The point at which the conductor will fuse will be fairly constant, regardless of the above but will be influenced by length, ambient temps and conductor alloy, time as well as available battery current.

A conductor used as a fusible link has disadvantages, namely that they are harder and more expensive to find. A fuse can be tailored to fit a specific application and are easier to find and replace than the link.
 
In the event that fusible links become unobtainable, you can source the exact wire to duplicate them yourself.

 
Don't forget the distributor housing, airflow meter, engine computer and engine wiring harness. :p
 
[Heavy Breathing]I just bought a new engine wiring harness this weekend[/Heavy Breathing]
 
Don't forget the distributor housing, airflow meter, engine computer and engine wiring harness. :p
1645382385842.webp
:cry: An "all original rig" today has not been driven, unfortunately engine swaps will be in everyone's future along with other niceties...
 
Back
Top Bottom