With the shortage of fusible links...

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OGBeno said:
What’s your question? That you have to wait for a bit to get them? Boo who.
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I do not mind waiting, the idea behind the post was to suggest a replacement, get everyone’s idea on it.
 
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OffRoadScott said:
I do not mind waiting, the idea behind the post was to suggest a replacement, get everyone’s idea on it.
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I like the idea of resetable or more easily replaceable units.

Having said that, I've never had a single issue with mine. The only compnents I've issues with is for the pac brake air compressor and have gone to a resetable breaker on it, and whatever wiring issue from the modified tach sender that tripped the fuse for the power windows. I was out on a multiday trip when that went and burnt through all of my spare fuses. No AC and hot but with mosquitoes on a very muddy trail that was slow moving through mud holes and winching. I've gone to resetable fuses in the panel and kept the old fuses for spares.
 
I've considered moving away from the links and into some high-quality resettable breakers.
 
NLXTACY said:
Guys the fusible links are NOT obsolete. Only a current National backorder but they are trickling in. I have 24 arriving today. I have 13 arriving next week. I have an LDO of 100 arriving 4/4 and another order of 60 end of March.

The current availability of these might kinda sorta be my fault 🤔
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Your LDO won’t count in a back order status internally at Toyota because it is “off-line”— IE: it’s outside of normal demand based on monthly inventory turns at each depot.

That said, having this many on back order is 100% related to supply chain issues down line within Yazaki proper. They’ve had a very tough 2021/early 2022.

Wiring harness, outside of semiconductors, are the number 1 part bottleneck for Toyota for both service and manufacturing parts.
 
HOLY ****ING s*** WHAT THE **** ARE WE GOING TO DO!!!!!!!! FUSIBLE LINKS ARE GONE!!! ARRRGGHHHH

Oh wait, I’ll just wait a little bit. Phew, that was close, I think I got COVID from this thread. I need a booster.
 
This is how the 'toilet paper' fiasco occurred.. Now that there is a 'known' shortage, everyone will be trolling every parts vendor to snap them up by the shopping trolley load :slap:

cheers,
george.
 
mudgudgeon said:
If AM1, AM2 are kept at stock rating (no reason to change them), and you were to increase alternator output, is there anything else you'd change in relation to increased alternator output?
Cabling going to main fuse box?
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Yes. The OEM alternator is an 80 amp unit. The associated wiring was based on that amperage rating. If you're installing a 150 amp unit, you're now potentially 95% over original intended capacity. That's a fire waiting to happen.
Care must be taken whenever changing major components like this. Proper gauge wire, proper terminal lugs, proper crimping/soldering all play a part in the system.
This is not the area to cut corners.
 
I dumped the FL's years ago, they are more trouble than they are worth as the vehicle ages, I fitted a fuse box on the inner wing, job done! And as precautionary measure I have a 50 amp breaker on the electric engine cooling fan, and cube fuses on my positive terminals due the position of the cable run for my dual batteries.

Regards

Dave
 
jonheld said:
Yes. The OEM alternator is an 80 amp unit. The associated wiring was based on that amperage rating. If you're installing a 150 amp unit, you're now potentially 95% over original intended capacity. That's a fire waiting to happen.
Care must be taken whenever changing major components like this. Proper gauge wire, proper terminal lugs, proper crimping/soldering all play a part in the system.
This is not the area to cut corners.
Click to expand...
At last someone who understands the potential of a fire when upgrading an alternator! The BS I have seen after an alternator upgrade really pisses me off. Quotes like "I will never run my battery down enough to need the full output of the alternator." or "I might upgrade the cabling if I fit a winch." So many people ask advice about this or that upgrade (not just alternators) and then do something completely different and complain that something does not work.

OK, Dave climbs down from his soapbox thinking about his blood pressure.

Regards

Dave
 
Dave 2000 said:
I dumped the FL's years ago, they are more trouble than they are worth as the vehicle ages, I fitted a fuse box on the inner wing, job done! And as precautionary measure I have a 50 amp breaker on the electric engine cooling fan, and cube fuses on my positive terminals due the position of the cable run for my dual batteries.

Regards

Dave
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I have replaced fusible links on my old patrol - mainly due to new 'stuff' on the battery+ and also a higher current alternator. I have a breaker for the aircompressor from its own battery+ feed.

Replacements (and additional) are all MIDI fuses that are the closest things I've found to fusible link replacements. The MIDI have a slow blow operation that can handle short duration overcurrent situations before blowing - just like a fusible link does. Standard fuses tend to be 'fast' blow and in my opinion are not appropriate for fusible link function.

Littelfuse has an excellent writeup and specs on their website for MIDI fuse operation.

32V MIDI Bolt-Down Fuses - Bolt-Down Fuses - Littelfuse

www.littelfuse.com www.littelfuse.com

cheers,
george.
 
Yep, I have a combination of midi fuses in the fuse box, I should have made that clear.

As an asides, I use two marine style batteries with the extra terminals/lugs, keeps things tidy.

Regards

Dave
 
jonheld said:
Yes. The OEM alternator is an 80 amp unit. The associated wiring was based on that amperage rating. If you're installing a 150 amp unit, you're now potentially 95% over original intended capacity. That's a fire waiting to happen.
Care must be taken whenever changing major components like this. Proper gauge wire, proper terminal lugs, proper crimping/soldering all play a part in the system.
This is not the area to cut corners.
Click to expand...

Dave 2000 said:
At last someone who understands the potential of a fire when upgrading an alternator! The BS I have seen after an alternator upgrade really pisses me off. Quotes like "I will never run my battery down enough to need the full output of the alternator." or "I might upgrade the cabling if I fit a winch." So many people ask advice about this or that upgrade (not just alternators) and then do something completely different and complain that something does not work.

OK, Dave climbs down from his soapbox thinking about his blood pressure.

Regards

Dave
Click to expand...

I upgraded the cable from my alternator to the battery.
I haven't changed cable from alternator to engine bay fuse box. I don't see the loads here as having changed as any accessories are drawing load from the battery through fused circuits.

If the 100amp fusible link rating is upgraded, is there any need to increase cable size to the engine bay fuse box?
 
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