wiring harness hot... ??
- Thread starter lvshust
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- Thread starter
- #22
im pretty sure i figured it out...
this pink yazaki wire put in by toyota for whatever reason... makes connecting the BW wire to the starter unnecessary. i was picking up a 12.25 current at the ignition wire that dropped to 11.60 when hooked up, this was also the setup that created immediate heat on this resistor wire.
so deleted that wire to starter, that may have been why the tab was broken off and no wire was hooked up to it when i drove this off the PO's lot...
no idea why this is but, for now i'm off to taping the wires back up...
this pink yazaki wire put in by toyota for whatever reason... makes connecting the BW wire to the starter unnecessary. i was picking up a 12.25 current at the ignition wire that dropped to 11.60 when hooked up, this was also the setup that created immediate heat on this resistor wire.
so deleted that wire to starter, that may have been why the tab was broken off and no wire was hooked up to it when i drove this off the PO's lot...
no idea why this is but, for now i'm off to taping the wires back up...
I doubt that the pink wire is original. Toyota did use resistor wires for the ignition circuit in later cruisers, but they were black with a yellow stripe. They drop the voltage at the coil down to about 8V when running.
The black wire with white stripe is the start wire from the ignition switch to the starter motor solenoid.
The black wire with white stripe is the start wire from the ignition switch to the starter motor solenoid.
bw wire vs pink wire
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/FJ40/1978FJ40/Haynes1978A.jpg
Are you saying the BW wire from the starter to the pos side of the coil is causing the prob? Once you disco it then everything is fine?
if so, then>
The bw wire from the starter to the pos side of the coil gives you a full 12v while the key is in start pos and when released zero, according to the haynes manual 78 had a ballast resistor---this prolly burned up and the PO replaced it with the resistor wire. The resistor wire (or ballast resistor) takes over with the key in the run pos and steps down the voltage to increase ignition parts longevity
In any case if the bw wire is shorted or shorted to ground inside the de-energized starter solenoid then with the key on you have a path to ground to cause flow through the pink (or BY) wire to a ground that is not intended and too low total circuit resistance reults---- the resistor wire is intended to flow current through the higher resistance offered in series by the coil.
hi resistance-low current, low resistance- high current,
The pink wire doesnt make the bw wire unecessary just serves a different purpose
also splicing off wires when adding components increases the total current flow-----resistances added in parallel decrease total circuit resistance while resistances in series add total circuit resistance
Make sense?
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/schematics/FJ40/1978FJ40/Haynes1978A.jpg
Are you saying the BW wire from the starter to the pos side of the coil is causing the prob? Once you disco it then everything is fine?
if so, then>
The bw wire from the starter to the pos side of the coil gives you a full 12v while the key is in start pos and when released zero, according to the haynes manual 78 had a ballast resistor---this prolly burned up and the PO replaced it with the resistor wire. The resistor wire (or ballast resistor) takes over with the key in the run pos and steps down the voltage to increase ignition parts longevity
In any case if the bw wire is shorted or shorted to ground inside the de-energized starter solenoid then with the key on you have a path to ground to cause flow through the pink (or BY) wire to a ground that is not intended and too low total circuit resistance reults---- the resistor wire is intended to flow current through the higher resistance offered in series by the coil.
hi resistance-low current, low resistance- high current,
The pink wire doesnt make the bw wire unecessary just serves a different purpose
also splicing off wires when adding components increases the total current flow-----resistances added in parallel decrease total circuit resistance while resistances in series add total circuit resistance
Make sense?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #25
bsmith-
i think i understand what you are saying, (sorry i am not inclined to understand electrical stuff)
the pink wire has to be toyota installed... not factory , but just fixed by them... the install was consistent with factory techniques. the way i have it set up now is what i do remember it was before i took it all apart. i remember asking myself why that one bw wire was not connected (it was an open factory connector)
the box on top of my coil does say ignitor... very odd
thanks for the diagram... so this IS "correct" for this particular case?
-p
wire
Not really a concern if the wire was factory or not that is okay either way as long as it has the right resistance. Who knows maybe they ran out of BR's that day on the line or Haynes got it wrong
Not Odd=====Ignitor Box===this is just the electronic ignition compnents===previously everything would work the same only using a different trigger=====aka points and leaving the key on with points closed burns up coils and points!
but if discoing the wire from the starter to the coil did the trick then you can prolly run it like that till you replace the solenoid
unless it starts shorting in the start pos too
years ago I had a BR burning up and glowing red hot on a 71 monte carlo and disco'd that wire and ran it like that till I sold it==these days and on my cruiser I am more picky and would put it as Toyota intended
Not really a concern if the wire was factory or not that is okay either way as long as it has the right resistance. Who knows maybe they ran out of BR's that day on the line or Haynes got it wrong
Not Odd=====Ignitor Box===this is just the electronic ignition compnents===previously everything would work the same only using a different trigger=====aka points and leaving the key on with points closed burns up coils and points!
but if discoing the wire from the starter to the coil did the trick then you can prolly run it like that till you replace the solenoid
unless it starts shorting in the start pos too
years ago I had a BR burning up and glowing red hot on a 71 monte carlo and disco'd that wire and ran it like that till I sold it==these days and on my cruiser I am more picky and would put it as Toyota intended
elec probs
(sorry i am not inclined to understand electrical stuff)
everyone brings something to the forum
for everyday elec probs just reading a schematic, ohms law, and how to use a meter for voltage and resistance checks can go a long way and is not much to learn
with just resistance checks you can figure out a lot---what wires go where, what contacts are being used in a switch, shorts, broken wires, good or bad relays and switches and the list goes on
Volume I - DC : All About Circuits
This is a good link to start with
for instance with the BW wire, since it is only connected to one component--- if you put the meter on ohms check and disconnected the wire from the coil----one lead on the coil end terminal and one touching the metal or battery neg would tell you if it is shorted to ground or not, takes just a minute
you were talking about that single wire from the solenoid to the pos side of the coil right? That was the BW wire you disconnected and now everything is all right?
(sorry i am not inclined to understand electrical stuff)
everyone brings something to the forum for everyday elec probs just reading a schematic, ohms law, and how to use a meter for voltage and resistance checks can go a long way and is not much to learn
with just resistance checks you can figure out a lot---what wires go where, what contacts are being used in a switch, shorts, broken wires, good or bad relays and switches and the list goes on
Volume I - DC : All About Circuits
This is a good link to start with
for instance with the BW wire, since it is only connected to one component--- if you put the meter on ohms check and disconnected the wire from the coil----one lead on the coil end terminal and one touching the metal or battery neg would tell you if it is shorted to ground or not, takes just a minute
you were talking about that single wire from the solenoid to the pos side of the coil right? That was the BW wire you disconnected and now everything is all right?
Coolerman
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I fixed the Haynes schematic on my website. You should download the new version. You just need the Haynes1878A.jpg file. It now has the LR and BW wires correct on the key switch. Coolerman's Electrical Schematics and FSM File Retrieval
Pink wire
Understand the thread is old, but so are our vehicles so the info. still helps. I'm about halfway through a re-build of my harness and looking for ways to start testing wires.
Being inspired by Coolerman's website and encouragement, I have disassembled a '78 and a '77 harness. They BOTH have that weird pink wire and the exact same connection and folded over sleeve taped together. I went to Kinko's and had the FSM diagram, the Haynes, and one from Coolerman's site enlarged and I taped them to my 4x8 plywood operating table. I also have a color coded diagram from the guy selling them on Ebay.
NONE of the diagrams show this pink wire. It is pink, not faded red.
Definitely factory, IMO, as these harnesses came one from here in Arizona and one from a 'mud member in Mississippi. Chances of both PO's using a low gauge pink wire and using the exact same gray tubing to cap it are, well, zero.
Understand the thread is old, but so are our vehicles so the info. still helps. I'm about halfway through a re-build of my harness and looking for ways to start testing wires.
Being inspired by Coolerman's website and encouragement, I have disassembled a '78 and a '77 harness. They BOTH have that weird pink wire and the exact same connection and folded over sleeve taped together. I went to Kinko's and had the FSM diagram, the Haynes, and one from Coolerman's site enlarged and I taped them to my 4x8 plywood operating table. I also have a color coded diagram from the guy selling them on Ebay.
NONE of the diagrams show this pink wire. It is pink, not faded red.
Definitely factory, IMO, as these harnesses came one from here in Arizona and one from a 'mud member in Mississippi. Chances of both PO's using a low gauge pink wire and using the exact same gray tubing to cap it are, well, zero.
Coolerman
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After re-reading this thread, I have to agree that this is a factory installed wire. The crimp shown in Post #15 is indeed a factory type of brass crimp. I see them in almost every harness I take apart.
When I get around to documenting a 76-80 harness I will see if the one I have has this wire. If it does I can update the schematics on my site to show it could be BY or pink...
When I get around to documenting a 76-80 harness I will see if the one I have has this wire. If it does I can update the schematics on my site to show it could be BY or pink...
StinkyPig
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Man I know this is old but...I have a 78 with a pink wire...exactly as shown and it been on fire.
Trying to tack it down but I see no update to the schematics or am I missing it?
I cut the wire and the smoke stopped. Everything still works?
Toyota never officially used a “pink’ wire. Best guess is that it was originally white, which runs from the fusible link at the battery to the amp meter, ignition switch and fusel block and has turned pink with age and heat. If you can tell us where the pink wire starts and ends that would help.
Cromagnon
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The pink "yazaki" wire is indeed from the factory. The reason I place it in quotes is most refer to it as the yazaki wire. In actuality most if not all of the factory wires are made by yazaki, so all of the wires could technically be called a yazaki wire.
The pink wire is a high resistance wire, compared to a regular wire, and is used in place of the ballast resistor on the igniter assembly. There are various threads on this subject throughout MUD.
The pink wire is a high resistance wire, compared to a regular wire, and is used in place of the ballast resistor on the igniter assembly. There are various threads on this subject throughout MUD.
StinkyPig
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Indeed there are. However as @Pin_Head demonstrates above, long time TLC gurus seem to have multiple views on the existence of this sasquatch like wire. "It cant possibly exist." Or "It does exist!" Or "it is a white!" "No the one I saw was pink!" No one seems to really have a handle on the elusive wire. I know it exists because I have seen it! And I have proof! Its only a matter of time before the world knows the truth!
pb4ugo
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What's the other end connected to?
