Wireless controller receiver and backup plug for wired handheld ... into Chinesium contactor.
Wiring an 8274 + Albright (2 Viewers)
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nice build here is free spool delete really needed?
I'm trying to wire a 5-pin Warn control to an Albright contactor and looking for some clarification on how to deal with the two extra wires. Inside of the plug has this wiring arrangement:
Diagrammed it's this:
The red wire is a ground and based on an image I found on-line I think the black wire will go to one of the outside blades on the Albright, the green wire to the other outside blade, and the brown wire to the center blade. The white wire will go to a 12+ source.
Is this correct?
Diagrammed it's this:
The red wire is a ground and based on an image I found on-line I think the black wire will go to one of the outside blades on the Albright, the green wire to the other outside blade, and the brown wire to the center blade. The white wire will go to a 12+ source.
Is this correct?
Warn 5 Pin socket wiring New and Old colors wiring Albright
Thought I would try to help with an easy to find reference. There are 2 styles of 5 pin sockets in the warn winches. I will explain the differences. I was redoing a 1975 Warn 8274 and converting to the newer 5 pin remote and Albright solenoid. I pulled the Solenoid box off an older Warn HS9500...
forum.ih8mud.com
I need some help figuring out what is going on with my winch: I finally got around to wiring my freshly rebuilt 8274 yesterday. I am using a brand new Warn 77892 motor (from XD9000 or XD9000i) from Amazon and a new Albright DC88P-1000 from eBay that I purchased last June.
I wired the winch in accordance with this diagram:
I connected F1, F2, and A from the contactor to the motor with 4 ga wire. I then connected the ground from the motor to the battery. As I was connecting the positive from the contactor to the battery, I got all the sparks! Enough to show black marks on the lug.
I hoped that something was off since my remote wasn’t wired in yet. I am using an old 3-wire Warn controller, where white is hot, green is power in, and black is power out. I wired a ground from the center spade of the Albright to the ground stud on the winch motor. I wired the white to the positive lug of the Albright. The green wire went to the right spade and the black wire to the left spade. After this, I tried to connect the positive to the battery with more sparks. Out of frustration, I held the positive to the battery for a couple seconds. Nothing seemed to heat up and the motor on the winch didn’t turn.
At this time the positive cable going to the battery was still disconnected. I checked for continuity from the positive lug on the Albright to everywhere I could think of. It showed continuity to A, F1, F2, the winch housing, the winch motor, the solenoid backing plate… Something had to be wrong.
I disconnected all the wires from the four lugs of the contactor and tried for continuity again. This time there was no continuity.
I then used a jumper wire from my battery positive to the left and right spade posts on the Albright. There was a click, so I assume that side of the contactor is working.
Running out of ideas, I decided to plug in my controller, hold the positive to the battery and try to run the winch. As soon as I touched the positive cable, the winch started running and spinning the drum. I unplugged the controller and tried again. This time hardly any sparks and the motor didn’t run.
I am at a complete loss. The only thing I can think of is my brand new eBay Albright is shorting out internally, but I wanted to hear your opinion before I order a new one.
I wired the winch in accordance with this diagram:
I connected F1, F2, and A from the contactor to the motor with 4 ga wire. I then connected the ground from the motor to the battery. As I was connecting the positive from the contactor to the battery, I got all the sparks! Enough to show black marks on the lug.
I hoped that something was off since my remote wasn’t wired in yet. I am using an old 3-wire Warn controller, where white is hot, green is power in, and black is power out. I wired a ground from the center spade of the Albright to the ground stud on the winch motor. I wired the white to the positive lug of the Albright. The green wire went to the right spade and the black wire to the left spade. After this, I tried to connect the positive to the battery with more sparks. Out of frustration, I held the positive to the battery for a couple seconds. Nothing seemed to heat up and the motor on the winch didn’t turn.
At this time the positive cable going to the battery was still disconnected. I checked for continuity from the positive lug on the Albright to everywhere I could think of. It showed continuity to A, F1, F2, the winch housing, the winch motor, the solenoid backing plate… Something had to be wrong.
I disconnected all the wires from the four lugs of the contactor and tried for continuity again. This time there was no continuity.
I then used a jumper wire from my battery positive to the left and right spade posts on the Albright. There was a click, so I assume that side of the contactor is working.
Running out of ideas, I decided to plug in my controller, hold the positive to the battery and try to run the winch. As soon as I touched the positive cable, the winch started running and spinning the drum. I unplugged the controller and tried again. This time hardly any sparks and the motor didn’t run.
I am at a complete loss. The only thing I can think of is my brand new eBay Albright is shorting out internally, but I wanted to hear your opinion before I order a new one.
Well, I'm dumb... I ordered a new Albright and wired it in this weekend. Unfortunately, I was having the same issues. It was about that time that I realized my positive cable was arcing through the heat shrink to A and F1... Re-routed the positive cable so it was by itself and wrapped it in heater hose. Now everything is working as designed.
I was just working on this issue this morning. Im adding the Badlands apex wireless remote to my 8274-50. I decided to order the Allbright DC88P-1000 from dieselize and a 500 amp relay too after reading through this post. Waiting on parts again. Alot of good info here. Thanks everyone!
Anyway, i checked the wiring with a meter on my 5 wire warn remote. Pretty straight forward, except the switched ground thing. "batt -" on my sketch (11 oclock) is N.O., but switches to the (3 oclock ) pin in either in or out switch position.
Hope this helps
Anyway, i checked the wiring with a meter on my 5 wire warn remote. Pretty straight forward, except the switched ground thing. "batt -" on my sketch (11 oclock) is N.O., but switches to the (3 oclock ) pin in either in or out switch position.
Hope this helps
About to pull the trigger on a new contractor for my 8274 and the Albright DC88 is out of stock everywhere I've looked. Sounds like the Warn 34971 may be too big for the solenoid housing. What about the Warn 98381?
98381 should be the one
Roger that. Thanks!
Thanks. I tried that and am not getting anything. Does the white wire need to go to ground or to the 12v power at the “+” on the contactor? I’m getting so many varied answers on the Warn Facebook page on this.
i’m also being told that the center connector needs to be grounded to the winch motor. I’ve tried that as well.
Thanks. Got it wired and getting absolutely nothing. Not even a click. Confirmed power to the “+”’from the battery. Ih8electrical.
Will do. I bought the winch recently, but tested the motor and it worked fine (at least in one direction) when I did a quick test.
I’m gonna really look into grounding tomorrow. Seems like there’s just not much else it can be unless I somehow got a bad contactor.
Does the winch motor need a separate ground from the contactor?
I appreciate the help, @gnob.
Just to close the loop on the Warn 98381 contactor...I had success after I ran a ground wire from the motor to the negative terminal on the battery, and a separate ground wire from the center terminal on the Warn contactor to the motor as @gnob suggested.
I ran both of these grounds to the through-bolt on the motor.
I ran both of these grounds to the through-bolt on the motor.
