It’s amazing how dumb Alaskans are. Cars all over the place on the way home from the airport. Natural selection I guess.
Winter tires and driving
- Thread starter coleAK
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Colorado (Denver/Front Range) got it's first snow a few weeks ago. Temps in the 20's, but being Colorado it bounced back to the 60'70's within a week. We are expecting more rain/snow today, but the issue here is it doesn't get cold enough long enough, different story in the mountains.
Weather is what is happening now, climate is what happens over time. In recent memory, the last 10 years, the climate in Denver has led to mild winters.
To the OP's question, while my wife's car has the winter wheels on it, I've left mine off for now. I've been thinking I'll stick with winter rated AT's year round, but hearing some of the feedback on the BFG KO2's (for example) has me rethinking this.
Weather is what is happening now, climate is what happens over time. In recent memory, the last 10 years, the climate in Denver has led to mild winters.
To the OP's question, while my wife's car has the winter wheels on it, I've left mine off for now. I've been thinking I'll stick with winter rated AT's year round, but hearing some of the feedback on the BFG KO2's (for example) has me rethinking this.
The studded LT2 seems rather quiet at speed (highways) on our LX but much more noticeable at slow speeds. Asphalt, of course, seems more quite than concrete. So my comments depend a bit on the road material.
They functioned absolutely great on a quick trip where we passed three cars off the highway and one truck jack-knifed. Two additional trucks jack-knifed after that as we saw on the way back.
Last edited:
I plan to order Nokian R3 SUVs in the same size as my highway tires. Is it recommended to buy 4 or 5 winter tires? Any disadvantage to not getting dedicated winter tire rims if I plan on having the dealer install?
It's mostly a convenience thing, I always do a 5-tire rotation every 5K when I'm changing the oil, so if the spare is different, you can't really include that in the rotation. And I like swapping my own tires over, I'm just hoping I can do the TPMS codes changeover myself with the cable and Techstream.
Every time you swap a tire on a rim, there is a risk of some minor damage, and I would rather not deal with the hassle. Regardless, you need someplace to store the extra set. I know some places are now offering tire storage for the extras, this would be a great option for apartment/condo folks that don't have the room.
Every time you swap a tire on a rim, there is a risk of some minor damage, and I would rather not deal with the hassle. Regardless, you need someplace to store the extra set. I know some places are now offering tire storage for the extras, this would be a great option for apartment/condo folks that don't have the room.
Yesterday I bought a set of Nokian Hakka R2's for the LX.
They're quiet, and not 'squishy' in 40 degree temps.
Looking forward to trying them out in the snow and ice.
They're quiet, and not 'squishy' in 40 degree temps.
Looking forward to trying them out in the snow and ice.
Went with the LT275/70R-18 BRIDGESTONE BLIZZAK LT E on Method wheels- The E loading rating sold me. The Blizzak LT are new model tire released summer `18. Due to the Method offset I experienced a little rubbing on the passages side mud flap so I removed it. Very happy with their performance- this weekend made a trip further west and back east over Vail pass which had pretty significant Snow and Ice patches along 70. I notice a significant improvement in braking distance over my KO2's and a lot quieter on dry pavement. The side walls are softer on the Blizzak than the KO2s so I stiffend up the Kings with a couple clicks and it made a marketable difference. I broke down and bought the AUTEL MAXITPMS TS508 TPMS TOOL it work like a charm syncing the TPMSs with the 200. Regarding the chains no chains debate- I have had success using auto socks on all four shoes, there was no clearance issues and offered significant snow and ice traction improvement.
I always do 5 because my winter tires (Hakka R2 SUV) are different size (stock), tread, rating than my KO2s and because I go on long road trips in the winter. Sometimes on lightly traveled roads. Flats are unlikely these days but should it happen in the middle of winter I want a spare that matches. If I was just driving around town I probably wouldn't bother.
As for dedicated rims, I did that with my previous vehicle (Land Rover LR4). It did save me money for changing (~$100 to change the full set of 5 twice a year) at Discount Tire where I purchase my tires. (If the tires on on dedicated rims they just swap the wheels/tires for free.) But it cost me money to get another set of TPMS sensors. And the biggest issue for me was the weight of moving the KO2s on their dedicated wheels up and down from the basement twice a year. They're heavy and I'm old and weak. The tires by themselves are nearly 30# lighter and for me that was worth paying DT to swap.
- Thread starter
- #71
I’m a huge advocate for inter tires. That said I do 4 winter tires on 18” tundra wheels. The reason I don’t do the 5 tire is I almost never do long trips in the winter, mostly around town. My thought if I did have a flat I could limp the short distance with 1 KO2 to my tire shop and get a new Nokian. And I rarely drive enough miles durring the winter to rotate my tires, instead I rotate when I put them back on in the fall. However if I can find a matching rim I’m considering doing the 5tire for winter as well when I’m due new winter set.
I guess what I’m saying If I did long winger trips I would do the 5 tire. Also personally I drive 66-75% of the miles I put on my LX in the 4-5 months on summer and I do a 5 tire rotation then.
I guess what I’m saying If I did long winger trips I would do the 5 tire. Also personally I drive 66-75% of the miles I put on my LX in the 4-5 months on summer and I do a 5 tire rotation then.
Finally snowing here and so far the nokians are really impressive. I got them mounted with cloned sensors and just swapped them on before the snow started. We drive up to ski once or twice a week once it opens. There are so many idiot drivers who will pass you even when your going 15-20+ over the posted limit on snowy switchbacks. I already feel like an idiot going that fast and can't risk ending upside down. I would rather spend the day skiing then dealing with my car going off the road.
I'm stuck and could use some opinions/advice. With how good this winter is already looking (compared to the last 3 "winters") I've decided to do something other than my standard Ridge Grapplers for this winter. While I've grown up in CO and never owned actual "winter tires" and have driven from CO to AK to NWT to YT in the winter successfully on AT & MT tires I am at the point in life where why push it rather than just get the right tool for the right job. I live near Vail, CO so we get a fair amount of snow but not necessarily a ton of ice. Which is why I'm stuck. I have big concerns with the Nokians and Blizzaks being way too moderate of a tire tread for deep powdery snow (think offroad, unplowed roads, backroads, winter campsites in Montana, Alberta etc) while there is no question they will be bomber on the slick plowed ice/snow layer on I70 going through town etc. Duratrac and Cooper ST Maxx are both studdable tires with a still decently aggressive tread and seems like a good compromise. I just got back from Svalbard where the roads are solidly packed ice/snow for 5-6 months a year. Were I to be living there, or in Alaska or north east coast with tons of ice and constant packed roads I would worry less about aggressive tread for deep snow. My choice has basically come down to the Nokian Hakkapelite LT2 in a 285/70R17 or Cooper ST Maxx (Studded) in a 285/75R17 with me leaning towards the cooper. Will I be sacrificing too much in all the worlds by going with the Cooper with the more agressive tread over a 100% dedicated snow tire that will probably gunk up and be stuck in thick powdery snow? Thanks
I use Nokians and Blizzacks. What you say about aggressive tread patterns being better in deep snow is true. For me deep snow gets you stuck. Ice or hard pack gets you dead. In the ice, the tire compounds, sipes and patterns on a winter tire win every time. Winter tires lose when sitting on a bar stool.
Rereading your post, if you get a studded, aggressive Nokians, then that would be hard to ignore. Run them all the way around. Wow, nice. Not so great on dry pavement though.
Rereading your post, if you get a studded, aggressive Nokians, then that would be hard to ignore. Run them all the way around. Wow, nice. Not so great on dry pavement though.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #75
So first off parts of Alaska get way more snow than any part of Colorado. We get more packed snow and ice on the roads because salt is outlawed and it stays cold here. In 2011 we broke 1400 inches in Girdwood and Thompson pass out of Valdez breaks 100 ft most winters. That year 2011 (>100 ft year) I did great with Hakka 7’s which is a similar tread pattern to the Hakka LT2. Attached is a picture of the tree of my Hakka 7’s on my LX and Hakka 9’s on my wife’s Tesla. I think the 9 may have more aggressive tread.
Alyeska ski resort, which in the Anchorage muni, has the highest annual snowfall of any ski resort in the USA, yes #1.
10 Ski Resorts with the Deepest Snow in America
Alyeska ski resort, which in the Anchorage muni, has the highest annual snowfall of any ski resort in the USA, yes #1.
10 Ski Resorts with the Deepest Snow in America
- Thread starter
- #76
I’ll also add the only time I’ve ever been stuck with any Nokian on any vehicle is getting high centered and no tire prevents that. I’ll add again I get new ones when I hit the 40% wear indicator which depending on the vehicle and miles for us is 6-8 winters.
What should I do for only 7 days of snow or ice driving per year?
I live in Texas, but like to drive to Crested Butte over Christmas.
The packed ice on Monarch Pass and around CB freak me out.
I’ve got about 36k in the original tires on my 2016.
I live in Texas, but like to drive to Crested Butte over Christmas.
The packed ice on Monarch Pass and around CB freak me out.
I’ve got about 36k in the original tires on my 2016.
- Thread starter
- #78
For ^^^ I would carry chains that you probably won’t need. And when it’s time for tires do some research and get all seasons with decent winter rating. Or if you off road and need an AT tire get one of those with decent winter rating. An then don’t wait on the wear bars get new tires when ~30% tread remains.
We were in east TN for 3 years (15 years ago) and skied most weekends with the kids at beech in NC when they were very little. I had an Audi Allroad (A6) and ran one of the Goodyear assurance models and carried chains. Typically put the chains on 2-3 times a winter.
We were in east TN for 3 years (15 years ago) and skied most weekends with the kids at beech in NC when they were very little. I had an Audi Allroad (A6) and ran one of the Goodyear assurance models and carried chains. Typically put the chains on 2-3 times a winter.
If I were looking at your same circumstance I would install the LT2 and also Slee’s ARB compressor mount and an associated compressor.
The LT2’s would be good 99% of the time but that other 1%, if it is too deep for them at normal street pressure, I would drop the pressure to 12psi (understanding how it will effect the driving dynamics) and then refill to the correct pressure after you get off the deep stuff.
There should be absolutely nothing on an open public road that would stop this solution. You can still get plenty stuck off-road but this should get you to the hill for freshies. Otherwise, follow Arctic Truck’s recipe for dedicated snow wheeling success.
Use a rental car
