Windshield/Door/Hood hinge pin and door pin refurbish

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The bushings are the OILITE, but I have to remove 0.008” from each flange for them to fit properly. It’s not a lot, but needs to be done so your not trying to force the inner hinge into the outer hinge.

The pins are completely machined by me from raw stainless steel bar stock.

On another note: I really don’t plan on making a ton of these. This all started as I was ready to install my windshield and needed to do something about my corroded pins and hinge bores. This was the solution I came up with and figured since I was set up, might as well make a couple more sets just incase someone else would be interested. It would be one thing if I had a CNC, but standing at my lathe for a couple hours each night really isn’t what I call fun. Once I get burned out and there’s no more interest, I think I’ll be done. Plus it’s take away precious 40 time.:)

Excellent :D

For anyone who doesn't know... OILITE are oil impregnated bronze bushings that are excellent quality. I've been using them for years and can't recommend them highly enough.
 
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The second plate measured 2.07, just like yours. I had a feeling they would be the same. Now, when I put the two halves together, I get 1.99, which means the combined shoulders of the two bushings separating the halves would need to be .08, correct?
 
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The second plate measured 2.07, just like yours. I had a feeling they would be the same. Now, when I put the two halves together, I get 1.99, which means the combined shoulders of the two bushings separating the halves would need to be .08, correct?

Mark,

Thanks for the measurements. Yes, the width of the bushings are 0.040” so numbers are the same. My only concern now would be the bore ID,s and if they are counter bored to a certain depth.

I would hate for you to buy a set and then not work on the older hinge style.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks
 
Mark,

Thanks for the measurements. Yes, the width of the bushings are 0.040” so numbers are the same. My only concern now would be the bore ID,s and if they are counter bored to a certain depth.

I would hate for you to buy a set and then not work on the older hinge style.

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks

I can mail you the one I took the measurements from and let you dissect it. Or if I dig around long enough I will probably find one that is already broken.
 
Would you use one or two bushings? One between and one on outside of opposite lug to prevent binding?

I measured around 0.99 for each lug and 2.07 for combined for the installed hinge in the picture you posted Steve. Not sure how much slop there is in the fastener holes.
 
I can mail you the one I took the measurements from and let you dissect it. Or if I dig around long enough I will probably find one that is already broken.

Mark,

I would be more than happy to take a look. I can’t make any promises, but I’m sure I could figure something out.
 
Would you use one or two bushings? One between and one on outside of opposite lug to prevent binding?

I measured around 0.99 for each lug and 2.07 for combined for the installed hinge in the picture you posted Steve. Not sure how much slop there is in the fastener holes.

Not sure how this type was designed from the factory, but it can’t be all that hard, especially if the bushings are the same size.
 
@SMG - I’m going to need a set of the early hood hinge pins also, same as Mark. Please let me know when you have this figured out and ready.
 
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I have them in a box, but my computer seems to have lost your address. I could hve sworn that one of your posts showed a label on a bag with it, but I don't see it now either.
 
Mark,

After taking a closer look at your earlier model hood hinge, it looks like this type of hinge never had bushings. This is probably why Toyota went with the 3 ear style with bushings because the 2 ear were prone to wearing out.

As you can tell from both pictures, the bores are not big enough to install the later style bushings and it would not be cost effective to try and bore each hinge to except bushings.

Let me know your thoughts,

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I have a thought. The issue of course is non-axial rotation which causes wear, and then more non-axial rotation (or binding). I looks like someone already figured this out on one of my '63 45 hood hinges, as they must of tapped one of the ears and then used a threaded bolt. This would eliminate some some of the non-axial rotation, at least in one ear. I haven't taken this one apart to see any other particulars. Note the hole - both of these '63 hinges have this hole, I assume for lubrication, which tells me only the pin is/was intended to be fixed to one ear. :hmm:
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Mark,

After taking a closer look at your earlier model hood hinge, it looks like this type of hinge never had bushings. This is probably why Toyota went with the 3 ear style with bushings because the 2 ear were prone to wearing out.

As you can tell from both pictures, the bores are not big enough to install the later style bushings and it would not be cost effective to try and bore each hinge to except bushings.

Let me know your thoughts,

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I’ve never given it much thought Steve. Just know they are sloppy things. @Downey gave me a set of aircraft pull-pins many moons ago and said they would solve the problem. I never got around to trying them because I just didn’t have faith that the little spring loaded detent balls in the pins would hold in high speed off road driving.
 
What color is it? Looks like Cadet Blue.

That’s what I was shooting for. The industrial paint store where I got my paint wasn’t real familiar with automotive paint codes. I guess it’s because they deal more with heavy equipment and such.

I basically brought them a picture of what I wanted and we kept tweaking the formula until I was happy.

It’s single stage Imron.
 

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