Window not going up or down help! (1 Viewer)

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Using your mutlimeter in dc volts mode, put the one probe in pin 12(blue wire) and one in pin 7(white with black strip). and see if there is 12volts. this is the 12 pin connector that goes in the Rear Left window switch
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No reading on meter.

I tried both IG on and OFF. Also switched probes from side to side of wire block connector pins 12 & 7. Confirmed wire colors of pins. Confirmed meter working an set to DC, with car battery. Battery read 12.35V
Test continuity between the RL switch plug and the two plugs behind the front seat belt trim. With a pick tool, tug on each wire where the two plugs are. If the red wire tugs out, that's your likely culprit.
Pulled molding off "B" pillar. No OMS between blue wire inside cabin at "B" pillar (behind seat belt as @ramangain thought) and to/at wire block connector pin 12 in door that connects to RL door window switch.

I did have power at blue leading up to "B" pillar. In-fact I blew the fuse probing the in the connector. Then seeing zero volts at blue. I replaced the fuse with a 10AMP (only had a 10AMP) and got power to blue. I did check that fuse before blowing and it was good.

I did not have time to pull door apart and re look at wiring. Is there an addition wire block connector block buried in the door, before switch block connector?

I saw no damage to rubber boot between "B" pillar and LR door. But did not get boot pulled back very well, to get good look at wires.

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ramangain

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This is your previously posted pic Paul. See the connector with the red, yellow, blue, and probably ground? See if you have continuity on the blue wire from that connector to the connector in the B pillar that goes to the door.

Plus, where are the rest of the wires on that plug to the window switch area? Are they all spliced into that electrical tape area in the ultimate hack job, or are there more wires that go into the door cavity which we can't see in that picture?
 
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This is your previously posted pic Paul. See the connector with the red, yellow, blue, and probably ground? See if you have continuity on the blue wire from that connector to the connector in the B pillar that goes to the door.

Plus, where are the rest of the wires on that plug to the window switch area? Are they all spliced into that electrical tape area in the ultimate hack job, or are there more wires that go into the door cavity which we can't see in that picture?
That pic is front door. I found dead blue in rear door. So first is finding that break.

I'm not sure if wire continuous from "B" pillar through door to window switch, or if there may be a hidden wire block connector in the door along the wire housing? Anyone know?
 
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That blue wire in the Master window switch is not the same blue that provides 12v power to the Rear left window. That blue in the master switch bring power from the FL fuse. Each window has it's own fuse.
 
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That pic is front door. I found dead blue in rear door. So first is finding that break.

I'm not sure if wire continuous from "B" pillar through door to window switch, or if there may be a hidden wire block connector in the door along the wire housing? Anyone know?
According to the EWD, that blue connector is the last connector before going into the window switch. I also do not ever recall seeing sub-harnesses inside the doors of landcruiser 100s.

To confirm we are still chasing the right demon. if you put your one multimeter probe on the blue wire in the connector the goes into the RL switch, and the other probe on the other side of the blue wire (in the blue connector that goes from the door to the pillar, male I think?), and put you multimeter in continuity mode, it shows no continuity, correct?
 
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According to the EWD, that blue connector is the last connector before going into the window switch. I also do not ever recall seeing sub-harnesses inside the doors of landcruiser 100s.

To confirm we are still chasing the right demon. if you put your one multimeter probe on the blue wire in the connector the goes into the RL switch, and the other probe on the other side of the blue wire (in the blue connector that goes from the door to the pillar, male I think?), and put you multimeter in continuity mode, it shows no continuity, correct?
Correct.

So must be bad blue wire in door or in boot bridging gap where door open from "B" pillar to RH rear door. No marks on the boot BTW, indicate a pinch or hit.

:idea: Any tracer tools out in market place. That I could attach some trace current to just one wires end. Than as I inputted trace current, I could move a trace probe along sheathing to fine spot trace current drops. Or any tricks to find the break/short fast?

I may buy a new door harness. To at least have on hand, as I open up door panel again. I've open 3 doors panel and the dash, on this rig for different things, and the time is getting ridiculous for this little stuff. I've 65 hours hand on into mechanical work in front end, steering rack, stabilizer system, knuckles, wheel bearing engine power steering and much more. This is last item on the punch list.

Further clarification of blue wire:

I put in multimeter in OMS on tone mode. No OMS on read out, no tone. So no continuity. Check myself by doing same to white/blue and it did have tone (continuity).

This is the blue wire of, pin 12 & wht/blue of 7 we checked early, that did not show 12volt across the two. I also checked for 12v at female wire block coming from cabin floor to "B" pillar, that connects to this male wires block that goes into door. It (The female from floor) did have 12 volt across blue to wht/blu. I touched it's blue pin and pin another next to it accidently, in the female block, and blew the 20AMP RL window fuse. Replace fuse with 10AMP and 12V was read between its blue and wht/blue.

So blue wire is deal up to pin 12 in last block connection that goes to switch of LR window. Deal only from male connect in "B" pillar thought to switch in door.
 
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^ that's the demon I'm trying to help with too.

That rubber boot between door and pillar has a big dent/crimp in it. I'd be really suspicious of wire continuity in there. That is where I found the broken wire on my rig.
Did not see any crimp or damage to the boot. But it is the best bet. I did peel back a bit, saw nothing to note. I saw nothing remarkable in the door. Door card may never have been off. But that I'm not sure of.
 
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Correct.

So must be bad blue wire in door or in boot bridging gap where door open from "B" pillar to RH rear door. No marks on the boot BTW, indicate a pinch or hit.

:idea: Any tracer tools out in market place. That I could attach some trace current to just one wires end. Than as I inputted trace current, I could move a trace probe along sheathing to fine spot trace current drops. Or any tricks to find the break/short fast?

I may buy a new door harness. To at least have on hand, as I open up door panel again. I've open 3 doors panel and the dash, on this rig for different things, and the time is getting ridiculous for this little stuff. I've 65 hours hand on into mechanical work in front end, steering rack, stabilizer system, knuckles, wheel bearing engine power steering and much more. This is last item on the punch list.

Further clarification of blue wire:

I put in multimeter in OMS on tone mode. No OMS on read out, no tone. So no continuity. Check myself by doing same to white/blue and it did have tone (continuity).

This is the blue wire of, pin 12 & wht/blue of 7 we checked early, that did not show 12volt across the two. I also checked for 12v at female wire block coming from cabin floor to "B" pillar, that connects to this male wires block that goes into door. It (The female from floor) did have 12 volt across blue to wht/blu. I touched it's blue pin and pin another next to it accidently, in the female block, and blew the 20AMP RL window fuse. Replace fuse with 10AMP and 12V was read between its blue and wht/blue.

So blue wire is deal up to pin 12 in last block connection that goes to switch of LR window. Deal only from male connect in "B" pillar thought to switch in door.
Sounds like you know what to do! I agree. Easiest solution is to get either a new or used RL door harness. Someone who know something about electricity might be able to answer this, but maybe run an AC current through the wire, and use a non contact voltage meter/hot wire detector?
 

ramangain

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Sounds like you know what to do! I agree. Easiest solution is to get either a new or used RL door harness. Someone who know something about electricity might be able to answer this, but maybe run an AC current through the wire, and use a non contact voltage meter/hot wire detector?
Waaaaaay too much trouble to replace that whole wiring harness if just one wire is bad IMHO.

If you want OEM-style, buy two new pins for connectors and literally replace the whole wire end to end between pillar and door. Secure to remaining wires with occasional electrical tape. Snap a few pics for owner approval I guess. Secure new wire to old wire to pull through rubber boot.
 
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Dang, why not!

Quick and clean. I can always come back and install a harness at later date. Needs window working, to complet window tint job now. I could knock it out in 1 or 2 hours.

Now that I think about it. I've a engine and starter wire harness. I could get some wire from. I've some heat shrink solder butts. I'll need a 20AMP fuse.

I hope to find cause while in door this time. As I'll be more targeting on the hunt. Have Macqyver @ramangain suggest ready to jump short..
 
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Windows working!:)

Just replace the wire harness in keeping with restore theme. Found a used harness to my door ~$80. Installed and worked fine. But! Next morning was not working.

Then remembered, I'd found 20AMP fuse blown, during diagnostic. I only had a 10AMP fuse at the time, so installed to help diagnos. Sure enough 10AMP fuse was blown. R&R with 20ANMP and works once again.

But why did wire die in first place:hmm:
If I get time, I'll see if I can find the bad spot in old wire harness. Perhaps in is damaged in the boot between pillar and door, maybe a pinch. Perhaps elsewhere.

Hopefully the new 20AMP fuse does not blow and we're done.

I started the removal at B pillar, than worked my way back into door. I did the lower halve first, not getting to far ahead as I routed replacement in, to make sure all securing points used. Took one hour start to finish. Plus ~6 hours diagnostics, posting and parts procurement.;)
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