Window not going up or down help! (1 Viewer)

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I've got a DS rear (RL) window inoperable.

Swap in a working window switch, no change.
Swap in a working DS door master switch assy, no change.
Jump the window motor directly (at last wire connecting block before motor) with 12V, motor works fine window rolls up and down stopping as should.
Active RL window from tech stream, no change. (all other windows worked/work from tech stream command and master).

What I'm I missing?

Notes on vehicle:
Door locks all work and wires all look good, no accidents 03LX470 w/233k clean.
Recently remote start (shop installed) and bluetooth (owner installed) added.
Did have windshield rust with holes large enough to put finger through. Recently repaired.
Unsure if window stopped working just after or before items listed!
 
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Test for power at the window switch connector. I bet it’s not getting 12v. One thing I do wonder, is if the door switch can work if there is a broken data line(how tech stream controls it, how the master switch controls it too). In other words, you wanna hope that your not getting 12v at the switch, and that you don't have a broken data line.

Obviously you've checked the fuse for that window?
 
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Probably start chasing power, to the door, to the motor, to the switch. Multimeter time.
Yeap! Sometimes the simplest things take so much time. The hunt continues.
Look for wire breakage in the loom between the door and chassis. I had a break in there that was the cause of my issues. Easy fix, PITA having to work with that rubber loom.
Was this running just under that carpet next to threshold?
Test for power at the window switch connector. I bet it’s not getting 12v. One thing I do wonder, is if the door switch can work if there is a broken data line(how tech stream controls it, how the master switch controls it too). In other words, you wanna hope that your not getting 12v at the switch, and that you don't have a broken data line.

Obviously you've checked the fuse for that window?
Broken link into or from computer is likely.

I've not yet traced power. But will be starting at window motor, working up stream. But since wires look good in door and switch swap did nothing. I'm thinking upstream of back door. My concern is issue with aftermarket wire messing up somewhere.

I'm thinking only one fuse for all. Is there more?

Seems we've many fuse box configuration, depending on year and model.

Keep the ideas coming, please!
 
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Found it does have fuse for each window, in RH junction box. Fuse RL not blown, buy very hard to pull and gunk/oxidation built up on it.

I clean tips and tried window RL, still not working.
I tested the fuse block RL, no power to block RL with switch RL pulled or pushed.
Tested the fuse block FL, has 12v power to block FL with switch FL pulled or pushed. (just to confirm I was getting a good test on RL)
IMG_8528.jpeg





IMG_8523.JPEG

IMG_8527.JPEG
 
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I'm a little concerned what I may have is either:

"wire butcher". That the term I just came up with...LOL. Wire butcher, is when aftermarket toys added, by someone not meticuloso and knowledgeable.

Or

Water entry down RH "A" pillar over the years, leading to a permanent fault in RH junction box. The fuse just were to hard to pull and cruddy. I saw this last year when a mechican bought me a troubled case in which AC inpo. But it had had multiple inpo systems. Convergence of systems, lead to a ground signal fault. Here I have already corrected other issue, like RR door lock motor. I'll re-check all system. But for now, I'm think this is last system point not working.

Not getting power to fuse, points to upstream of fuse. Since I tired switch swapping. But I suppose it could still be down stream, in the signal from switch IDK.

I sure hope not he junction box. Those are pricey (year model dependent) and a can be bear to R&R.

Any more thoughts please post them?

You've all been helpful, so thank you guys each and everyone post @Trunk Monkey , @ramangain, @Njck22

Need more help here. "Calling all hands on deck": @2020 Rocks , @gatormark91 @flintknapper @Mike6158 @white_lx @jerryb @abuck99 just to call a few...
 

ramangain

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Well, if you're chasing wires, might as well check continuity between the pins on the connector to the window switch of the door and the two connectors buried in the DS door pillar. You've got most of it disassembled anyways.
 
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I'm a little concerned what I may have is either:

"wire butcher". That the term I just came up with...LOL. Wire butcher, is when aftermarket toys added, by someone not meticuloso and knowledgeable.

Or

Water entry down RH "A" pillar over the years, leading to a permanent fault in RH junction box. The fuse just were to hard to pull and cruddy. I saw this last year when a mechican bought me a troubled case in which AC inpo. But it had had multiple inpo systems. Convergence of systems, lead to a ground signal fault. Here I have already corrected other issue, like RR door lock motor. I'll re-check all system. But for now, I'm think this is last system point not working.

Not getting power to fuse, points to upstream of fuse. Since I tired switch swapping. But I suppose it could still be down stream, in the signal from switch IDK.

I sure hope not he junction box. Those are pricey (year model dependent) and a can be bear to R&R.

Any more thoughts please post them?

You've all been helpful, so thank you guys each and everyone post @Trunk Monkey , @ramangain, @Njck22

Need more help here. "Calling all hands on deck": @2020 Rocks , @gatormark91 @flintknapper @Mike6158 @white_lx @jerryb @abuck99 just to call a few...
So at the fuse, there is not 12v measured at either of the two slots? And at the switch you don't get 12v either. So there the issue. check continuity between the "hot" fuse slot of one of the working windows to the "hot" fuse slot of the window not working. if there is no continuity, there is a fault in the fuse block. From what you've diagnosed so far it would only make sense if there was no continuity.

After this test the window by giving it 12v at the fuse block.(make sure this 12v is coming from the battery on the vehicle(not an external power supply)

It should work if there is no other issue(make sure you test with all the window switches connected). I bet it will work
so what the solution? either repair the junction box(PITA), replace(PITA and $$$) or add a fuse tap so that power from another spot is going to the window. I would put a fuse tap in one of those unused slots, and then a 20 amp fuse, then put a small spade terminal that fits tight in the RL window slot(side that goes to the motor) onto the wire lead from the fuse tap. Fixed for under 10$
solution.jpg


I would only "fix" one variable at a time. The issue appears to be in the junction block.
 
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2020 Rocks

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So at the fuse, there is not 12v measured at either of the two slots? And at the switch you don't get 12v either. So there the issue. check continuity between the "hot" fuse slot of one of the working windows to the "hot" fuse slot of the window not working. if there is no continuity, there is a fault in the fuse block. From what you've diagnosed so far it would only make sense if there was no continuity.

After this test the window by giving it 12v at the fuse block.(make sure this 12v is coming from the battery on the vehicle(not an external power supply)

It should work if there is no other issue(make sure you test with all the window switches connected). I bet it will work
so what the solution? either repair the junction box(PITA), replace(PITA and $$$) or add a fuse tap so that power from another spot is going to the window. I would put a fuse tap in one of those unused slots, and then a 20 amp fuse, then put a small spade terminal that fits tight in the RL window slot(side that goes to the motor) onto the wire lead from the fuse tap. Fixed for under 10$
View attachment 2446784

I would only "fix" one variable at a time. The issue appears to be in the junction block.
I think this is the way to go, if the only issue is back passenger window, I would isolate that circuit and not deal with a new panel. GL!
 
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Well, if you're chasing wires, might as well check continuity between the pins on the connector to the window switch of the door and the two connectors buried in the DS door pillar. You've got most of it disassembled anyways.
Good idea and I do agree. Could be signal not come from switch to junction block. But I'd would have thought swapping switches with and 06 in my driveway, would have revealed a bad switch. But I cannot rule out multiple point failure, like can happen with a short dump 12v where it should not be.

I need to fine wire diagram of wire block, to know which two pins at a time to check and what omh on some and volts on other to look for. Not my strong suit read those diagrams, but getting better at it with jobs like this. ;)
So at the fuse, there is not 12v measured at either of the two slots? And you checked this with the vehicle “ON” correct? And at the switch you don't get 12v either. So there the issue. check continuity between the "hot" fuse slot of one of the working windows to the "hot" fuse slot of the window not working. if there is no continuity, there is a fault in the fuse block. From what you've diagnosed so far it would only make sense if there was no continuity.

After this test the window by giving it 12v at the fuse block.(make sure this 12v is coming from the battery on the vehicle(not an external power supply)

It should work if there is no other issue(make sure you test with all the window switches connected). I bet it will work
so what the solution? either repair the junction box(PITA), replace(PITA and $$$) or add a fuse tap so that power from one of the side windows or other systems (same fuse rating) is going to that window. I wouldn't tap from one of the other windows, because the increased load might blow the fuse when all windows are going down at once. Instead tap from another fuse(I bet the unused ones have 12v

I would only "fix" one variable at a time. The issue appears to be in the junction block.
To confirm: I've No volts at the fuse port of RL (rear left window, which is one not working), with key on and helper pressing and pulling window RL switch on door and all switch connected. I repeated this on RL of master switch panel in drivers door. No volts again at fuse block port RL.

To test that I was set up correct, and have gotten meter probes to the pins make good contact, and my thinking correct. I then test the next fuse block slot FL (driver window). Again helper working master switch panel for that FL window (drivers window). I did get 12 volt on meter at this point at port FL. But window of driver door (FL), did not move with just meter (no fuse in) connect pins. So then had hepler work other uninfected switches/windows with fuses in. All work the windows.

So very sure now. 12 volts only passes fuse with activation of corresponding switches. All but RL (rear left door windows) fuse port get 12 volts.

Your idea is a good one. Thank you! @Njck22 & @2020 Rocks

Not sure why not to just use a 12volt shop battery. But I'll try your way of using vehicles 12v.

Will if be safe and good test if I: ??

To jump use two small wires, from fuse block FL jump to RL fuse ports (fuses out). Than use switch on master FL to deliver power to FL fuse block port, and thereby jump power to RL fuse block port?

I know for sure master switch and fuse block port FL works. My last test confirmed this. So drivers window switch (FL) works and get 12volts to fuse block port FL on activation of switch FL.

Any risk of damage to good switch/circuit of FL?
 
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Good idea and I do agree. Could be signal not come from switch. But I'd would have thought swapping switches with and 06 in my driveway, would have reveal a bad switch. But I can rule out multiple point failure, like can happen with a short dump 12v where it should not be.

I need to fine wire diagram of wire block, to know which two pins at a time to check and what omh on some and volts on other to look for. Not my strong suit read those diagrams, but getting better at it with jobs like this. ;)
To confirm: I've No volts at the fuse port of RL (rear left window, which is one not working), with key on and helper pressing and pulling window RL switch on door and all switch connected. I repeated this on RL of master switch panel in drivers door. No volts again at fuse block port RL.

To test that I was set up correct, and have gotten meter probes to the pins make good contact, and my thinking correct. I then test the next fuse block slot FL (driver window). Against helper working master switch panel for that FL window (drivers window). I did get 12 volt on meter at this point at port FL. But window of driver door (FL), did not move with just meter (no fuse in) connect pins. So then had hepler work other infected switches/windows with fuses in. All work the windows.

So very sure now. 12 volts only passes fuse with activation of corresponding switches. All but RL (rear left door windows) fuse port get 12 volts.

Your idea is a good one @ramangain Thank you!

Not sure why not to just use a 12volt shop battery. But I'll try your way of using vehicles 12v.

Will if be safe and good test if I:

To jump use two small wires, from fuse block FL jump to RL fuse ports (fuses out). Than use switch on master FL to deliver power to FL fuse block port, and thereby jump into power to RL fuse block port?

I know for sure master switch and fuse block port FL work. My last test confirmed this. So drivers window switch (FL) works and get 12volts to fuse block port FL on activation of switch FL.

Any risk of damage to good switch/circuit of FL?
Unless the lx470 has a drastically different set up than the 2004 LC EWD I’m looking at there should be 12v at all of those fuses at all times. So you don’t need to press the other switch to get power to the switch

the reason you can’t just use the shop battery is because it is not grounded to the vehicle chassis. So to confirm you put the positive meter probe on the RL fuse slot that should always be powered, and the negative probe on a metal grounding point and there is not 12v being read?
 
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Unless the lx470 has a drastically different set up than the 2004 LC EWD I’m looking at there should be 12v at all of those fuses at all times. So you don’t need to press the other switch to get power to the switch

the reason you can’t just use the shop battery is because it is not grounded to the vehicle chassis. So to confirm you put the positive meter probe on the RL fuse slot that should always be powered, and the negative probe on a metal grounding point and there is not 12v being read?

I will double check this. But I had probs into fuse port power on (late and tired). Switch not touched and no power to fuse port. Then hit switch LF and powered only working window FL. As switch released, I saw volts drop back down, tapering down actually. Not just suden no volts.

No I put both ends of meter probes into either slots of one fuses port. Wire or connecting as a fuse would.
 
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So should I test with fuse in and touch just red to top of fuse (need a shaper point on my prob). Black to ground of vehicle. What will this tell me?
 
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I will double check this. But I had probs into fuse port power on (late and tired). Switch not touched and no power to fuse port. Then hit switch LF and powered only working window FL. As switch released, I saw volts drop back down, tapering down actually. Not just suden no volts.

No I put both ends of meter probes into either slots. Wire or connecting as a fuse would.
Oh I see you were measuring amps? Or something else? I’ve never heard of a multimeter being used like that. Measuring volts inline? You must have a specialized multimeter
 
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So should I test with fuse in and touch just red to top of fuse (need a shaper point on my prob). Black to ground of vehicle. What will this tell me?
I’ll draw a picture. Take the RL fuse out. There should be two pins in its place. One of those pin SHOULD have 12volts of potential between the pin and body ground. So touch the red probe to one of the open pins and the black end to body ground. See if there is 12v. If there is, then the fuse box is not the issue and the pin you touched is the “hot” pin. If not move the red the other open pin, and see if there is 12v. One should have 12v, and the other goes to the device. Consider that “hot” pin to be an extension of the positive battery terminal, and the body ground to be an extension of the negative battery terminal. You are seeing if there is power getting to the fuse, which then gets passed through to fuse to the window switch inside the RL door. Then that switch (or the master switch) will pass tell a relay to close and pass that power to the window motor.
 
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I’ll draw a picture. Take the RL fuse out. There should be two pins in its place. One of those pin SHOULD have 12volts of potential between the pin and body ground. So touch the red probe to one of the open pins and the black end to body ground. See if there is 12v. If there is, then the fuse box is not the issue and the pin you touched is the “hot” pin. If not move the red the other open pin, and see if there is 12v. One should have 12v, and the other goes to the device. Consider that “hot” pin to be an extension of the positive battery terminal, and the body ground to be an extension of the negative battery terminal. You are seeing if there is power getting to the fuse, which then gets passed through to fuse to the window switch inside the RL door. Then that switch (or the master switch) will pass tell a relay to close and pass that power to the window motor.
Actually you're right leave the fuse an touch the top of it with one probe and body ground with the other prob and see if the multi meter shows 12v all the time
 

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