Window not going up or down help! (1 Viewer)

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Okay:
1st test I did (fuse out touching both pins with prob, IG key on sw activated) show switch not actively closing circuit RL. Also that drivers working window switch (FL) did activate it's fuse port.
2nd test with fuse in, IG off and Switch inactive. l confirm 12 volts power to both fuse FL & RL.
3rd test touching one fusesports pin at a time w/ (+) prob and ground (-) prob to body, w/IG off and Switch inactive. Showed both RL (inop window ds rear) & FL (working ds window) have 12 volts of power at lower pins, non at top pins.

So power to both FL & RL fuse ports is hot at 12V.

But switches (master or slave) of inop window, not activating fuse port RL with 12V. WHY????????????
 
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Okay:
1st test I did (fuse out touching both pins with prob, IG key on sw activated) show switch not actively closing circuit RL. Also that drivers working window switch (FL) did activate it's fuse port.
2nd test with fuse in, IG off and Switch inactive. l confirm 12 volts power to both fuse FL & RL.
3rd test touching one fusesports pin at a time w/ (+) prob and ground (-) prob to body, w/IG off and Switch inactive. Showed both RL (inop window ds rear) & FL (working ds window) have 12 volts of power at lower pins, non at top pins.

So power to both FL & RL fuse ports is hot at 12V.

But switches (master or slave) of inop window, not activating fuse port RL with 12V. WHY????????????
excuse me if I’m not reading correctly,
The window switches do not control wether or not there is power at those fuses. In fact nor does ignition or accessory switch) think how the vehicle let you role up the windows even after taking the key out). Seeing as there is power getting to the fuse, the junction block is not your issue. Proceed to the window switch connector at the rear left door and see if you are getting 12v there.
 
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Using your mutlimeter in dc volts mode, put the one probe in pin 12(blue wire) and one in pin 7(white with black strip). and see if there is 12volts. this is the 12 pin connector that goes in the Rear Left window switch
.
2020-09-26_15h20_04.png
 
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excuse me if I’m not reading correctly,
The window switches do not control wether or not there is power at those fuses. In fact nor does ignition or accessory switch) think how the vehicle let you role up the windows even after taking the key out). Seeing as there is power getting to the fuse, the junction block is not your issue. Proceed to the window switch connector at the rear left door and see if you are getting 12v there.

I need schooling here :frown:

I ve door apart and know which pins on wire block from motor to jump to test those. Motor has tested okay with shop 12v battery pins 1 & 4. Both up and down. I can test the counter pins that wire block connector fit into.
Using your mutlimeter in dc volts mode, put the one probe in pin 12(blue wire) and one in pin 7(white with black strip). and see if there is 12volts. this is the 12 pin connector that goes in the Rear Left window switch
.View attachment 2446982

Oh great that was next? Thanks !
 
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No reading on meter.

I tried both IG on and OFF. Also switched probes from side to side of wire block connector pins 12 & 7. Confirmed wire colors of pins. Confirmed meter working an set to DC, with car battery. Battery read 12.35V
 
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No reading on meter.

I tried both IG on and OFF. Also switched probes from side to side of wire block connector pins 12 & 7. Confirmed wire colors of pins. Confirmed meter working an set to DC, with car battery. Battery read 12.35V
And you put the fuse back in at the junction box right?
 
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I'll give it a try and I'll confirm colors. Be back in a moment or 2.

I can also test the master and slave in another 100 series 06LC. It's rigs switch I use in first test of switches in the 03. But I never actually made sure they are working switch, just assumed. I need to pop in a good battery in that 06. Let me know if you think worthwhile.
 
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I'll give it a try and I'll confirm colors. Be back in a moment or 2.

I can also test the master and slave in another 100 series 06LC. It's rigs switch I use in first test of switches in the 03. But I never actually made sure they are working switch, just assumed. I need to pop in a good battery in that 06. Let me know if you think worthwhile.
If its not too difficult to pop out the Rear left switch in that 06, it might be helpful just to make sure I'm not misreading the EWD.
 
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Okay. color confirmed and I got 12.4Volt PINS 10 & 2, IG key off.


I'll pop out rear sw of 06. I'll install battery first make sure good sw also. If you feel helpful to do both based I what I just reported (above and below)?


But found what I hate seeing. Aftermarket wiring!

004.JPG

006.JPG

009.JPG
008.JPG

Like has to do with aftermarket FOB for remote start plus!
 
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Okay. color confirmed and I got 12.4Volt PINS 10 & 2, IG key off.


I'll pop out rear sw of 06. I'll install battery first make sure good sw also. If you feel helpful to do both based I what I just reported (above and below)?


But found what I hate seeing. Aftermarket wiring!

View attachment 2446994
View attachment 2446995
View attachment 2446997View attachment 2446996
Like has to do with aftermarket FOB for remote start plus!
You can just put a battery on the ground and do jumper leads to the battery terminals, might be a little easier than lifting the battery in and having to bolt the terminals.
That’s a terrible wiring job. But still not a clear indication that’s the culprit.
 
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What kind of half-assed wiring job is that?!

Honestly, once you find the wire break(s), you're best bet is to pass that 2nd wire set through the rubber loom. Do it once, do it right.
I Hate, HATE HATE aftermarket wire even DVD installed at Depot or Dealership. (DVD are not factory installed option.)

I do not see break in wire just in sheathing.
You can just put a battery on the ground and do jumper leads to the battery terminals, might be a little easier than lifting the battery in and having to bolt the terminals.
That’s a terrible wiring job. But still not a clear indication that’s the culprit.
I pop in a battery and tested the master and salve, I used from 06 yesterday. They worked fine, as I assumed. I'm fast and strong for and old guy, with batteries...LOL Had one wheels!

I also pop out the salve SW RL of 06. Some variation in marketings, but I thing the same.
06 Salve
010.JPG

03 Salve
015.JPG

06LC salve RL. Paints/markings may be different variation compared to 03LX below
06LC RL (2).JPG

03LX salve RL
03LX RL (2).JPG
 
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I Hate, HATE HATE aftermarket wire even DVD installed at Depot or Dealership. (DVD are not factory installed option.)

I do not see break in wire just in sheathing.

I pop in a battery and tested the master and salve, I used from 06 yesterday. They worked fine, as I assumed. I'm fast and strong for and old guy, with batteries...LOL Had one wheels!

I also pop out the salve SW RL of 06. Some variation in marketings, but I thing the same.
06 Salve
View attachment 2447021
03 Salve
View attachment 2447022
06LC salve RL. Paints/markings may be different variation compared to 03LX below
View attachment 2447023
03LX salve RL
View attachment 2447024
and on that RL connector from the 06 was there 12v between the power and ground wire?
 

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