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Using your mutlimeter in dc volts mode, put the one probe in pin 12(blue wire) and one in pin 7(white with black strip). and see if there is 12volts. this is the 12 pin connector that goes in the Rear Left window switch
.View attachment 2446982
No reading on meter.
I tried both IG on and OFF. Also switched probes from side to side of wire block connector pins 12 & 7. Confirmed wire colors of pins. Confirmed meter working an set to DC, with car battery. Battery read 12.35V
Pulled molding off "B" pillar. No OMS between blue wire inside cabin at "B" pillar (behind seat belt as @ramangain thought) and to/at wire block connector pin 12 in door that connects to RL door window switch.Test continuity between the RL switch plug and the two plugs behind the front seat belt trim. With a pick tool, tug on each wire where the two plugs are. If the red wire tugs out, that's your likely culprit.
I did have power at blue leading up to "B" pillar. In-fact I blew the fuse probing the in the connector. Then seeing zero volts at blue. I replaced the fuse with a 10AMP (only had a 10AMP) and got power to blue. I did check that fuse before blowing and it was good.
I did not have time to pull door apart and re look at wiring. Is there an addition wire block connector block buried in the door, before switch block connector?
I saw no damage to rubber boot between "B" pillar and LR door. But did not get boot pulled back very well, to get good look at wires.