Winch Decisions ??

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I agree with making reliability the primary focus. I've had good luck with a couple different Warn winches in the past (M8000 and 8274-50) but I'm not opposed to trying something new if there's a good option. I wanted total confidence in a winch, and never wonder if it was going to work when I needed it. ComeUp has a proven track record of reliability in tough environments from the Artic trucks in Iceland that all use them to many of the trucks competing in the Rain Forest Challenge every year is some of the worst mud on the planet. Those two things were enough to convince me I could have confidence in the reliability. Quality was also a question at first, but I was able to check out a few ComeUp winches that were used on a few trucks built by Cruiser Outfitters. That took care of my quality questions. The quality of the ComeUp winches is as good as any of the Warn winches I've had in the past(none of which were VR series). Also liked the features it came with, synthetic rope, wireless controller, highest waterproof rating, MASSIVE hook.

Not saying ComeUp is the only answer, it's just a good option that I think hits all the check boxes we all try to look for. Bottom line is, don't spend your money on something that *might* work most of the time. Try to chose one that will work every time.
 
First off, I was not hurrying, you can't slow down a winch.... Hurrying a recovery is when people get hurt and equipment gets trashed. I've seen smoke come off the solenoids on cheap winches when they died on two trucks in our group on separate runs. Never seen it happen on a quality winch, not saying its not possible just less probable. Both events were fully out single line pulls with no closer anchors available. This was when I was just starting into the scene 4 or 5 years ago so I was not in charge of any recovery ops just an observer.

There is actually a way to slow down a winch and that is to simply stop it and let it cool.

And that, my friend, is why most winches fail, including Warns. Operator abuse. Failure to rig properly for the situation. Etc.

It's not because of faults with the winch, even the cheap ones. Sure, those happen and, yes, you can spend for higher quality.

However, there's an area where things can definitely be improved on most of the cheaper winches and that's the scrawny set of cables supplied with them. Could even be the issue in the examples you cited, but I don't know. Best to make your own, phat and happy.

Looking back on it now, sure we could have deadman anchored a rig to the point and snatch strapped off that. But come on dude. If you have a Warn VR10000 winch on your FJ40 and you got stuck in a mud hole you would pull your cable out to the tree and winch like that dude did. It was not a "big hurry". It was "I've got a 10,000lb warn I can pull myself out".

I'd say there's no more point in abusing a quality winch than a, ahem, lesser quality winch. What you describe is more about ego than the winch. If an easy pull, then yeah, single line it. But don't do it just because it's a Warn. I suspect the Warn people would tell you the same.

Secondly to say that a cheap winch will do 99.9% of what the more expensive winches will do but then suggest it should be snatched for every pull to 'not be in a hurry' would leave me to believe that the cheap winches are only about 50% as capable as the more expensive ones.

Yes snatch blocks are great tools and when used correctly are much safer than a single line pull. But snatching isn't always an option. When its not and you need to get un-stuck I personally wouldn't want to doubt the ability of my winch to do a single line pull.

I get it you like cheap winches, thats fine and it will probably be OK if you only use it several times a year but one day its going to fail mid pull regardless if you snatch it every time. If you don't ever plan on pushing your rig to explore its limits off-road then a badlands is probably OK. But if you are that kind of a adventure seeker (if you're considering buying a winch then you most likely are) then save up for a couple more months and buy quality.

I don't agree that my well-maintained and properly used winch will one day fail just like that. But you're making essentially the same point I'm making if you can just over look my "love of cheap wenches"...err, whatever. It's to source your winch to meet your needs. If you plan on regularly doing trails the require winching to get through, then yeah, buy that Warn. You're going to need it.

On the other hand, getting stuck ceased being entertainment for me several decades ago. And I've been stuck a remarkably few times since. In fact, so few I don't recall when. I owned an Isuzu Rodeo for 16 years and didn't get stuck once in it. Did everything requested of it in Colorado high country, except Holy Cross City. It was still eager (had the factory big tire package, but we're only talking 31s) but I hate body damage on nearly new vehicles;)

Yes, your intended use should be kept in mind.

You've got to ask yourself "am I comfortable being stranded with a broken winch and a stuck rig in a situation that could really suck?" because it could happen. Yea it may happen on a trail run with others who can help. Or it could happen when you are out alone and you're in a precarious spot on a normally easy trail 10 miles away from cell service and 50 miles away from the nearest town.

Now your stranded, your truck is stuck, its snowing and its getting dark... These things happen to people. Take away is that its better to have equipment that you can rely on all the time. I run lots of trails and my winch gets used regularly so my stance is certainly biased so take it for what its worth.

Thats my buck o five.

I'm pretty darn confident I won't end up with a broken winch stuck somewhere. I know what it can do and I'll treat it like a valued partner. In most cases (I did say 99% not 99.99%) that will cover things, based on past experience with a variety of winches and other recovery techniques.

Fundamentally, we're probably closer than you may think here. But you'll have to consider what I'm doing works well for me. Just because you have a great winch doesn't mean I've got a funky one. I know its limits and how to achieve what I need in spite of those if I treat it with respect.
 
I agree, it is quite obvious that your application of the budget winch suits your needs.

I disagree about your 99% comment in relation to the question posed in the original post. The OP obviously wheels his vehicle regularly if it is armored and on 35's in this situation to suggest a budget winch for his application make no sense and would end up wasting his money.

By your definition of 'winch abuse' that would put probably about 90% or more of people who have winched in the abusers category. I have never seen anyone pull-pause-pull-pause-pull-pause through a snow drift or over an obstacle. Its typically one and done. There are big differences in the quality of a cheap winch vs more costly winch. Does that allow the expensive winch to take more "abuse"? You bet.
 
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I agree, it is quite obvious that your application of the budget winch suits your needs.

I disagree about your 99% comment in relation to the question posed in the original post. The OP obviously wheels his vehicle regularly if it is armored and on 35's in this situation to suggest a budget winch for his application make no sense and would end up wasting his money.

By your definition of winch abuse that would put probably about 90% of people who have winched in the abusers category. I have never seen anyone pull-pause-pull-pause-pull-pause through a snow drift or over an obstacle. Its typically one and done. There are big differences in the quality of a cheap winch vs more costly winch. Does that allow the expensive winch to take more "abuse"? You bet.

The OP may or may not find a budget winch useful. Depends on the planned use. Just because you're running 35s doesn't mean you plan on getting stuck regularly.

I don't disagree with your assessment that maybe 90% of people abuse their winches. But if you read the manual on each and every one, pull-stop-cool, repeat as necessary is pretty much how the suggest it be operated. I suspect that holds true with Warn also. Now, if you know you're gonna run like that, then yeah, you're just going to break things. You may even break your Warn like that...but I'm pretty sure you were Warned about it if you do.;)

That's why I say that many of the lurid tales that are told about smoking winches are indicators of abuse and the primary reason winches fail. As I noted in my first comment here, it's a design issue with planetary winches in general You can yank it out in one long pull. But if you want to count on reliability, than giving some credit to those who wrote the user guide is something to consider.
 
Hello.i have a fzj80 vx from 1994. It has a factory mounted winch. I have searched the internet for similar cars trying to get the specs on the car and have not been able to find any. In colombia these toyotas are imported from japan. Somebody who can point me in the right direction.
 
Most heat build up is right around stall speed, which is another great reason to size your winch correctly. You are right that heat, typically, as a result of complete neglect and missuse will kill a cheap and expensive. But it will always kill the cheap long before it will a more costly one especially something like an M12000.

I saw a VR10000 on first wind trying to pull a 40 out of a mud hole stall out and burned up, absolutely driver ego and error. Second one was a badlands 12k winch that just stop working after pulling an 80 up a ledge, I would not consider this pull to be abusive. The 80 driver said he had used the winch about 10 times prior.

Almost all winches are rated with an intermittent duty cycle. That doesn't necessarily mean that you have to pull-pause-pull-pause if its pulling with relative ease it is actually aimed at the people who keep their finger on the button when the drum starts to stall out because that is when heat builds up very quickly and will burn out your solenoids.

Again, cheap winches have cheap solenoids, higher quality winches have more capable solenoids. Once again a quality winch will take more abuse.

I will leave it at this;

You have stated valid points in regards to when a cheap winch may be a viable option as well as what kills them (usually) and ways to lessen that danger.

Its my belief that recovery gear is not an area to skimp on. Personally, in a hazardous recovery situation there are too many other variables to worry about, I don't need to add another to the list by having a cheap winch.

Different sides of the same coin, the readers here will have to decide which side they land on.
 
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Hello.i have a fzj80 vx from 1994. It has a factory mounted winch. I have searched the internet for similar cars trying to get the specs on the car and have not been able to find any. In colombia these toyotas are imported from japan. Somebody who can point me in the right direction.

Toyota factory winches are by Aisin. Tapage (another user here located in Panama) might have a suggestion?

Are all of the 80s in Colombia made in Japan? I thought Venezuela might also supply them, as they were built there long after production ceased in the rest of the world. I'm not sure if just for the Venezuelan domestic market or for exprt within Latin America, too?
 
Most heat build up is right around stall speed, which is another great reason to size your winch correctly. You are right that heat, typically, as a result of complete neglect and missuse will kill a cheap and expensive...SNIP

I'm not even sure complete neglect is needed for heat to become an issue. I generally check out initial performance when packing the cable on a new winch. Been doing that since I first laid hands on a mint 8274 for my FJ55. If you've bolted that winch on, you're still not done until you've packed the cable (probably less of an issue with synth?)

When doing that with the XRC12 on the truck now, I had to stop twice to cool. Sure, a small load, basically dragging the 80 along up a very slight incline. My test is laying a gloved hand in the motor. It's gonna be hot, but if you can't stand to be on it, even briefly with that protection, then consider a cooling break.

The basic problem is asking a small motor to deliver tons (literally) of torque, especially in the 12k flavor. Most have virtually no ventilation. They can radiate heat, but little more. So if you get way ahead of the radiant heat curve, you get into trouble.
 
1) Those winches are rated with a duty cycle for a reason.
2) I have seen lots of people pull, pause, pull with a succesful outcome. Why not do this ? It allows you to constantly assess the situation and if what you are doing is a) right and b) working.
3) Rigging a snatch block may not always be necessary, but once again, why not ? You've taken half the stress off of the winch, lessened the amount of damaging heat that will build up and generally made the entire operation safer and easier with a better chance of a more successful outcome.
4) Your winch, your money, you use or abuse it however you want. You spend as much money as you want, pull it as long or as short as you want and rig it the way you want to rig it.

Summary: A lot of you guys are making good points in this thread. If I had the extra budget I would probably just put a high end hydraulic unit on my rig as that's what the wreckers use. It would also have a 100ft of synthetic cable and one of those cool thimble things on the end. However, I don't and I don't mind getting creative with my gear either. Taking your time and being smart with your rig is going to go a long ways towards having a safe and successful outcome.

We are all products of our experiences and there are folks out there who have been doing this for a long time and have based the techniques they use on those experiences. That's why I always encourage people to not get too set in there ways and really evaluate what someone else is doing and if its actually working or not.
 
Are all of the 80s in Colombia made in Japan? I thought Venezuela might also supply them, as they were built there long after production ceased in the rest of the world. I'm not sure if just for the Venezuelan domestic market or for exprt within Latin America, too?

those winches are rated 8K but they pull lots' more ..

And yes late 80 series production in Venezuela was sold to Colombia .. so if you see an 80 there 98 and on .. was from Venezuela and none of those got Aisin winches ..
 
You are right I have seen people pull stop pull and stop before but never out of concern overheating but rather to verify that the rigging and everything was OK. Heat reduction is a happy coincidence in those situations.

Things I would not do on the cheap:
  1. Recovery gear
  2. Safety gear
  3. Medical gear
  4. Survival gear
  5. Parachutes
  6. Condoms
  7. Gas station Indian Buffet
among others.
 
I will toss this in the thread for fun. Battery. My perfectly good Warn failed me as I had a failing battery and buried on a cold day in the snow. :doh:
 
One other feature I like about my COMEUP is that it has a warning alarm that goes off when it's getting too hot. Not a huge thing, but at least I know when to give it a rest and cool off for a few minutes before causing damage. FWIW, its never heated up on me to where the alarm as gone off.
 
1) Those winches are rated with a duty cycle for a reason.
2) I have seen lots of people pull, pause, pull with a succesful outcome. Why not do this ? It allows you to constantly assess the situation and if what you are doing is a) right and b) working.
3) Rigging a snatch block may not always be necessary, but once again, why not ? You've taken half the stress off of the winch, lessened the amount of damaging heat that will build up and generally made the entire operation safer and easier with a better chance of a more successful outcome.
4) Your winch, your money, you use or abuse it however you want. You spend as much money as you want, pull it as long or as short as you want and rig it the way you want to rig it.

However, I don't and I don't mind getting creative with my gear either. Taking your time and being smart with your rig is going to go a long ways towards having a safe and successful outcome.

We are all products of our experiences and there are folks out there who have been doing this for a long time and have based the techniques they use on those experiences. That's why I always encourage people to not get too set in there ways and really evaluate what someone else is doing and if its actually working or not.

Real decent summary. IMO.

I've come from a climbing / rope rescue background, so to me setting up a proper single compound right off is step 1 for multiple reasons:

1) you're doubling your initial pull, without any extra equip than your winch & the initial basic Warn recovery / goodie bag (pulley, strap, clevis)
2) you're peeling off twice the line to get your pull off that 4-5th wrap you have on your drum
3) you're not going to cook your sh*t because you only ever do that simple 5th wrap/direct pull when you need a slight bump, your overall winch health won't have been used in high torque pulls on stupid situations.

I've noticed that guys who have burned a winch out, generally have more than 1 winch coffin to their name.

If you still know where the packaging your winch came in is & it's already cooked - you need to rethink your methods. Or your vendor.

I bought my Warn as a crusty POS from Minnesota (salt eaten) - some 14+ yrs ago.
I tore it down, rebuilt it & painted the case, ran cable for ~decade, then in last 4-5 yrs had $$ to finally go rope, but only because I hated the "ifs" of steel cable - and I had alot of pulls to the point I couldn't see flaws but knew my use of it.

I know there's alot of good new winches out there, but when I can look on my local CL & find 2-3 M12k's for $8-900 ask, I just don't understand (aside from desert guys who can make a 8K work & last) why people who can fit a M12 choose a new China one.

IDK, it just seems when the "burned out winch stories" come from a local 4x group who run regularly at our local ORV area, it's nearly always the same 3-4 guys. And they seem oddly proud rather than see it as a learning opportunity.

1 burned winch is a fluke, any more & you need to take a class or watch someone else setup a pull. Am I crazy thinking this?
 
Another potential good purchase, in my opinion again, is a hand throttle. I got mine, Toyota original, from Ebay for $50. Have used a few times for rock crawling and using compressor to re-inflate tires. Will use tomorrow for winching for the first time.
 
A few more things to think about

1) Your winch may overheat before you ever feel it on the case. The case getting hot to the touch means the motor is already cooking in there. What I'm getting at is don't base your winch time on whether or not the case is hot, it can be misleading.

2) Nobody has mentioned anything about batteries. Even if your winch had a 100% duty cycle, your battery does not. Your 80 amp alternator is not keeping up with that kind of electrical load, and pulling on the battery that hard for any length of time is going to shorten its lifespan considerably. This makes an argument for having a deep cycle for your winch battery as they are designed for that kind of abuse. Regardless the more load you take off the winch, the more load you take off of the battery.

3) I like these things ))))))) they really provide a nice clean look, especially since I don't know how to insert bullet points !!!!!!!

4) The hand throttle is a good idea. I imagine the alternator is putting out maximum juice somewhere between 1200 - 2000 rpm so why not set it there for the pull.
 
That brings up my earlier question.. Does anyone know of a 12k winch that uses the smaller warn 9k format so it'll fit into a slee shortbus?

That is the bumper I'll be getting soon, and the more I read the more I believe a 9 or 9.5 winch isn't really enough for an 80.
The HF 12K fits into my Slee Short bus
 
SNIP
I've noticed that guys who have burned a winch out, generally have more than 1 winch coffin to their name.

If you still know where the packaging your winch came in is & it's already cooked - you need to rethink your methods. Or your vendor.
SNIP
I know there's alot of good new winches out there, but when I can look on my local CL & find 2-3 M12k's for $8-900 ask, I just don't understand (aside from desert guys who can make a 8K work & last) why people who can fit a M12 choose a new China one.

IDK, it just seems when the "burned out winch stories" come from a local 4x group who run regularly at our local ORV area, it's nearly always the same 3-4 guys. And they seem oddly proud rather than see it as a learning opportunity.

1 burned winch is a fluke, any more & you need to take a class or watch someone else setup a pull. Am I crazy thinking this?

Nope, I think it says a lot about operator error being the factor in winch failure I noted earlier, rather than where your winch was born.

Yeah, a nice M12 would be cool, especially a a good price. They're rare as hen's teeth in the Midwest, as winches are generally a lot less common here than they are where a decent trail is within an hour's drive. Certainly, jump on that if you find one. That said, I'm afraid there's still a need to buy new for many people stuck out here in the "winch desert" plus the fact that a good deal on a M12 is still likely to cost you double what an import would (but maybe you'll get really lucky and get a really good deal on a used Warn...)
 
A few more things to think about

1) Your winch may overheat before you ever feel it on the case. The case getting hot to the touch means the motor is already cooking in there. What I'm getting at is don't base your winch time on whether or not the case is hot, it can be misleading.

2) Nobody has mentioned anything about batteries. Even if your winch had a 100% duty cycle, your battery does not.
SNIP

4) The hand throttle is a good idea. I imagine the alternator is putting out maximum juice somewhere between 1200 - 2000 rpm so why not set it there for the pull.

If your winch is showing signs of failure and it didn't even get the motor hot first, then you probably do have a problem. Point being that you should be able to nudge right up to hot, and then pause, not keep it grinding away, and it should be fine. No planetary winch I've seen doesn't get hot when it's working, it's the simple laws of physics and the cased motor with next to no ventilation. Even my old 8274 got pretty warm under load, but did run fairly cool just handling line, one of its advantages over the now very common and more compact planetary design.


Your point on the battery is well-taken. Winching is a load on the truck in general, not just the winch, so battery and alternator, as well as the wiring to hook it all up, have to be up to snuff. In fact, if you're going to spend whatever on a winch, make certain that the supporting cast is equal to the task. No point in hanging a fancy winch on the bumper, then cheaping out on cables and powering it with that single 4 year old battery you're starting to worry about. In fact, if money is an issue, then you're better off buying a budget winch and spending on cables, etc. And if you blow the wad on a nice Warn and feed it with some crappy old cables that came with your CL find, then you're doing yourself a disfavor.

In fact, ARB aside, I spent more on cabling, the Blue Sea switch, fittings, the second battery box, a Hellroaring isolator, and another Interstate to occupy it than I did on my XRC12. If it was a Warn, it should be the same. Sure, I could've just spent it all on and afforded a Warn, but then it would be more a poser winch than a really useful one. When and if I can get a Warn, all I'd need do is drop it in the bumper -- the supporting cast is already in place.

Hand throttles = good, no place in my sig line for that, though.;)
 
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Report from the trail, Engo 10000S worked 15 seconds once, now dead. Brand new, instructors verified instaLl correct
 

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