Will this double carden shaft work with my fj40?

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The double cardan joint has the same bolt pattern and center as the cruiser shaft. The early toyota shafts, until '83 I think, have smaller hole for the bolts but better flex. On those you have to drill out the holes to accept the larger FJ40 driveshaft bolts. The shaft listed there has pretty poor flex in the joint, but they can be clearanced realtively easily to allow them to flex better.

In addition, I don't think the spline joint end will work on you axle, but the cruiser end will slide right on. They are the same diameter and spline.

You will likely have to have the shaft length changed. If you are mechanically inclined, there is a Toyota Trails article that describes very well how to make you own driveshaft online this month.
 
I don't understand. I need there to be a dc joint at the transfer and the stock single cruiser joint at the diff. Will it work or not. Lengthening is not an issue.
 
I don't understand why you need a DC in the rear. Especially since you just did a SOA. My cruiser doesn't have a DC and is SOA. No issues what so ever. No vibrations up to 80.
 
Trollhole said:
I don't understand why you need a DC in the rear. Especially since you just did a SOA. My cruiser doesn't have a DC and is SOA. No issues what so ever. No vibrations up to 80.
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I have a little vibe under 30 and bad binding when in neutral. I have 2.5 inch springs.
 
I think you will find the cardan joint you are looking at has less angle capability than the stock fj flanges. IMO I would get a custom cv from woods or clearance your pieces to work. I have 2" SOA on my 40 and the stock d-line just got lengthened and I ground out the valleys on the flange and took a little off the ears in specific spots to get 12* more droop than they had stock. The CV I ordered ( a 1310) for the front had 10* less droop than my modified stock d-line and I had to send it back to have the inside of the cv clearanced to allow like 32* of droop. They ground some off the u-joints in the cardan and some off the body on the inside of cardan. It only goes like 4" more droop than I could get out the modified stocker but in the front the t-case output points up just a hair causing the stock d-line to not cut it where it works in the rear.
 
Marshall - You have the flattest SOA I've ever seen - almost no lift :D. If he has fresh springs that are 2.5" as well, he's probably sitting about 5 inches or more taller than you. I'm running an 85 mini-CV which I had clearanced (I think I paid Jessie to verify it was max droop) due to a longer driveline. You might still bind at full articulation - who knows.

You can run the mini-double carden from the stock drum brake by drilling the drum and reinstalling studs to match the mini-truck pattern. I think you can also build in a hybrid LC/DC flange on that end.

I think you might want to run the mini-truck pinion end - as the mini-shaft might have 5" of slip versus the 3" a stock shaft has. To do this you will need a new flange to match the mini-bolt pattern/size, or if it's the same bolt spacing - just drill out as recommended above. Is your pinion course or fine spline?

My recollection - and do a search maybe - is that one year in particular (maybe 1985) came stock with a higher angle (e.g. droop).

I don't remember as much as a should - after working on em, I just drive em until they break (even thought I've got two spare DC's that I need to clearance and get set up for spares).
 
Ok - it opened go check it out. My memory was half right about 85 being most desirable (84 and 85 actually), but IFS are just as good once clearanced...
 
Sputnik40 said:
Marshall - You have the flattest SOA I've ever seen - almost no lift :D. If he has fresh springs that are 2.5" as well, he's probably sitting about 5 inches or more taller than you. I'm running an 85 mini-CV which I had clearanced (I think I paid Jessie to verify it was max droop) due to a longer driveline. You might still bind at full articulation - who knows.

You can run the mini-double carden from the stock drum brake by drilling the drum and reinstalling studs to match the mini-truck pattern. I think you can also build in a hybrid LC/DC flange on that end.

I think you might want to run the mini-truck pinion end - as the mini-shaft might have 5" of slip versus the 3" a stock shaft has. To do this you will need a new flange to match the mini-bolt pattern/size, or if it's the same bolt spacing - just drill out as recommended above. Is your pinion course or fine spline?

My recollection - and do a search maybe - is that one year in particular (maybe 1985) came stock with a higher angle (e.g. droop).

I don't remember as much as a should - after working on em, I just drive em until they break (even thought I've got two spare DC's that I need to clearance and get set up for spares).
Click to expand...

Good stuff
My spring are flat but because the PO never had a track bar and turned them into an S shape before I got a hold of them. I've seen SOA 62 with lift springs snap a pinion because there was no track bar. Fact that he has lift springs may help a bit. But I'd hate to be the one on the trail having to yank the 3rd when he did break. Lack of Track bar will just making locking up the rear tires in an emergency situation flat scarry. I think the worst situation was sand though. With a locker in the rear and different traction front and rear it makes having fun hard.

Best way to tell that I have found is either put the bumper against something or stap the ass of the cruiser to a tree and try to move forward and have someone look at the pinion under hard load.

You stuff starts looking like this. Stop and do a track bar.
YouTube - Axle wrap
And a crappy track bar won't work.
YouTube - Axel rap R&D
 
What about a front dc drive shaft off of a 81-84 f60. Can i just take the double cardon end, connect it to my transfer case end, then combine that with my existing fj40 shaft? To good to be true huh. If this will work, i'm gonna get one from cruiserparts.
 
Do you have fine spline pinions or course spline? It will determine what flange you need to use on the drive shaft end.

There is a thread from a few months ago from Slickrock that asked if a 60 series would work and the answer was no. I will try to hunt the thread down for you.

badass said:
What about a front dc drive shaft off of a 81-84 f60. Can i just take the double cardon end, connect it to my transfer case end, then combine that with my existing fj40 shaft? To good to be true huh. If this will work, i'm gonna get one from cruiserparts.
Click to expand...
 
D'Animal said:
Do you have fine spline pinions or course spline? It will determine what flange you need to use on the drive shaft end.
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The spline configuration of the pinion really has little to do with the bolt pattern, since you can get multiple drilled patterns in the companion flanges, both coarse and fine spline now.


Presuming the flange bolt pattern was not changed since he has a 1979 40 series, he would have a four speed companion flange. (he has also stated that he has 4:88 gears in this truck, which, would also mean that he has fine spline pinions/companion flanges, but that does not make any difference really)



When Toyota changed to the four speed transmission they also changed the size of the u-joint used and this resulted in larger driveshaft components, also requiring a bolt pattern change at the flange. This occurred in 01/74. (however, there are people that have stated and I have parted out a 02/74 40 series that had a three speed transmission in it, with the four speed size joints/drive shaft components)

So we know that the pinion spline count changed from coarse to fine in 1978. So that would mean that any four speed companion flange (coarse or fine spline) will work when trying to attach a pre-08/84 FJ60 series front or rear drive shaft to a 40 series companion flange on the differential or transfer case.


So, compatibility of four speed drive shaft components would range from 01/74 to 08/84, and has nothing to do with the spline count of the pinion, since coarse spline and fine spline companion flanges are the same bolt pattern during these years.
 
D'Animal said:
There is a thread from a few months ago from Slickrock that asked if a 60 series would work and the answer was no. I will try to hunt the thread down for you.
Click to expand...

D'Animal said:
Here is the thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/wanted-parts-tires-wheels/201444-60-series-front-drive-line.html
Click to expand...



Presuming that the companion flange on the front differential and front transfer case output have not been changed on the truck in this link (slickrocks)at any time in the past, then yes, the four speed drive shaft will not bolt up/attach to the smaller bolt pattern of the earlier three speed companion flanges.
 
badass said:
What about a front dc drive shaft off of a 81-84 f60. Can i just take the double cardon end, connect it to my transfer case end, then combine that with my existing fj40 shaft? To good to be true huh. If this will work, i'm gonna get one from cruiserparts.
Click to expand...



Yes this will work for you as the bolt patterns are compatible.
 
Trollhole said:
Good stuff. My spring are flat but because the PO never had a track bar and turned them into an S shape before I got a hold of them.
Click to expand...

Hahaha! You know I'm just jerking your chain - mine are equally as flat and a bit of an S shape on both the rears - mostly the right side. Partly due to prior wrap before the FJ80 torsion bar, and then just from pure articulation. I love the flat spring articulation - but have to wonder if it's just a bit too much. Hopefully Jim picks up my newish (used SUA stock springs) from John next weekend - and am hoping to 4-link the rear after GSMTR ;-)
 
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