Will it make it 950 miles? (1 Viewer)

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Wow that's awesome!! You definitely tightened it a lot considering you managed to deform the 14ga steel, but I would imagine that's necessary to prevent it from coming off. That was one of the reasons I went from 16ga to 14ga. I'll get another out to you tomorrow!
 
This is awesome, now I want one too!
 
Maybe a better idea is to carry the tool and throw a spare snapring in your roadside/trail repair kit
 
Made it to ABQ no problem. Since the axle is toast anyways, tempted to leave it installed and do longevity testing while parts get ordered and arrive.
 
So, I do have extra snap rings on the trip but they served no purpose. The issue of why I couldn't use another snap ring is that the axle had backed out while driving. It had backed out enough that the end past the snap ring location was whirring around and ground smooth on the inside part of the hub flange in the short time of driving on the highway. There is no material left on the axle to form a snap ring groove.

I had originally tried a replacement snap ring but got no further than five miles before the axle had backed out of the flange again.

The @TheForger tool was the only thing that allowed me to finish my journey on the current axle. BTW, he's not paying me a dime or equivalent payment for my endorsement. It's just a tool that saved my bacon.
 
Any idea on what caused the original snap ring to brake and set off this whole series of unfortunate events?
 
Maybe you could find a pipe/tube that is 1.5~2" tall, that can go over the axle and rest on the hub flange. Then use a bolt/washer to snug that up, then you don't have that big contraption hanging off of the wheel.

Basically the same thing as the toyota bolt, you just use some pipe to space it out and hold the axle out in the right spot.

Warning, extremely detailed diagram ahead.
A94E6DED-0DE8-4A8F-BA10-CC9D6C50D5EB.jpeg
 
FJBen said:
Maybe you could find a pipe/tube that is 1.5~2" tall, that can go over the axle and rest on the hub flange. Then use a bolt/washer to snug that up, then you don't have that big contraption hanging off of the wheel.

Basically the same thing as the toyota bolt, you just use some pipe to space it out and hold the axle out in the right spot.

Warning, extremely detailed diagram ahead.
View attachment 2498311
Click to expand...
That would work well.

Or, remove the front driveshaft, remove both front drive flanges and replace with @BenCC "dummy flanges" and drive with the CDL locked.

1604464190992-png.2485913

1604463988632-png.2485910
 
I did wheel bearing replacements and double checked everything after 50 miles before hitting the road with the trailer. All looked good.

Maybe there was gunk in the snap ring channel. Maybe the snap ring was defective. I can say that the axle is not OEM, so it is a good opportunity to return to OEM.
 
I did not want to drive 950 miles towing a trailer with CDL locked. Asking for more trouble IMHO
 
FJBen said:
Maybe you could find a pipe/tube that is 1.5~2" tall, that can go over the axle and rest on the hub flange. Then use a bolt/washer to snug that up, then you don't have that big contraption hanging off of the wheel.

Basically the same thing as the toyota bolt, you just use some pipe to space it out and hold the axle out in the right spot.

Warning, extremely detailed diagram ahead.
View attachment 2498311
Click to expand...

That was my first thought as well, I doubt that the tool would fit in the small center bore of my Rock Warriors.
 
Well, if anything, folks can now throw a new useful tool, or invent one for themselves, in their tool recovery kit for when life throws a similar curve ball at them. We all make due the best we can!
 
FJBen said:
Maybe you could find a pipe/tube that is 1.5~2" tall, that can go over the axle and rest on the hub flange. Then use a bolt/washer to snug that up, then you don't have that big contraption hanging off of the wheel.

Basically the same thing as the toyota bolt, you just use some pipe to space it out and hold the axle out in the right spot.

Warning, extremely detailed diagram ahead.
View attachment 2498311
Click to expand...
I’m not trying to hijack this thread so there’s more info in my cv axle puller tool thread about this. But I’ve been working on a spindle grease tool that doesn’t require the removal of the adjusting/locking nuts and messing with the preload. I’m thinking if I left the flange in place, forgot about the grease fitting and bracket, and just drilled a hole at the end to accept a M8x1.25 bolt w/appropriate washer it would basically be exactly what you’re talking about. It would certainly be a smaller moment on that wheel. Let me try to work something out.

AD1C98CF-3156-493C-A018-22E0A5AE2697.jpeg


To be fair Ben’s dummy flange is awesome and would work perfectly in that regard. You just gotta carry the tools required to remove the driveshaft but IMO everyone should have those in their recovery bag.
 
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