It doesn't, but what does that matter when nothing is turning?
Will it make it 950 miles? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ramangain
- Start date
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It's all relative. Will steering be turning?
I lived in Ashland and that In-N-Out in Medford is the only one I’ve ever been to.
Yes! I knew something didn’t seem right, couldn’t put my finger on it.
Wheel is turning, and bearings, and possibly axle some small bit just from friction (unless front diff is jammed). Knuckle is moving with suspension and steering is putting forces on. I bet axle will saw its way in and out without the ring. I could imagine this turning into necessitating a new axle/drive flange/possible spindle (knuckle?!). Fine if the problem is like @ramangain (still better to remove prop shaft) and those have to be replaced anyway, but not so good if it’s a blown front diff. Maybe better to pull axles and stuff a rag in the back of the knuckle? Of course still far from ideal but...
My vote is for machined flanges without the spline, still use the clip.
@medtro , what’s your setup? Splineless flanges? Remove front diff & axles (how to seal back of knuckle?)?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
- Thread starter
- #64
So I must ask now. In the situation I was in, what should I have done differently?
Keep in mind a 6k lbs trailer was attached, so jacking up the front or rear would put hella stress on the frame. Uncoupling the trailer was also not an option due to my attitude and energy level at the time.
Keep in mind a 6k lbs trailer was attached, so jacking up the front or rear would put hella stress on the frame. Uncoupling the trailer was also not an option due to my attitude and energy level at the time.
Removed front drive shaft and CD locked. I also have spineless flanges but not installed.
ElHefe
SILVER Star
Damn, I’m glad I keep @TheForger’s tool in my rig now. Crazy that it didn’t throw off balance noticeably.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
- Thread starter
- #69
Update, yay!
@Mauser (many thanks once again) and I finally started inspecting all of this in detail and found what appears to be the root cause of the failure. Both spindle nuts (the ones your torque to get proper pre-load) spun forward on the spindle and somehow took the intermediate piece (the one with the bendable tabs) with it. I had the tabs bent to secure the spindle nuts, but I guess not aggressively enough. The outer spindle nut appears to have fused/welded to the end of the spindle, probably from outrageous heat and consistent pressure of being pushed against the hub flange. 1100 lb-ft of torque from an impact driver did not loosen it in either direction.
The only thing keeping my wheel on was the fused outer spindle nut and the brake caliper. Needless to say, the whole hub assembly has been wobbly since this calamity began, and it would explain why the snap ring failed in the first place. Funny part is that the only way this felt different from behind the wheel was a soft brake pedal on the 1st push (the caliper pistons and pads were compressing on the disc to "straighten" the wheel out at the beginning of braking) and a slightly more vague steering feel.
Looks like some part shopping are in order to get this sucker fixed once and for all.
Oh, and the @TheForger CV axle puller tool is still working perfectly!
@Mauser (many thanks once again) and I finally started inspecting all of this in detail and found what appears to be the root cause of the failure. Both spindle nuts (the ones your torque to get proper pre-load) spun forward on the spindle and somehow took the intermediate piece (the one with the bendable tabs) with it. I had the tabs bent to secure the spindle nuts, but I guess not aggressively enough. The outer spindle nut appears to have fused/welded to the end of the spindle, probably from outrageous heat and consistent pressure of being pushed against the hub flange. 1100 lb-ft of torque from an impact driver did not loosen it in either direction.
The only thing keeping my wheel on was the fused outer spindle nut and the brake caliper. Needless to say, the whole hub assembly has been wobbly since this calamity began, and it would explain why the snap ring failed in the first place. Funny part is that the only way this felt different from behind the wheel was a soft brake pedal on the 1st push (the caliper pistons and pads were compressing on the disc to "straighten" the wheel out at the beginning of braking) and a slightly more vague steering feel.
Looks like some part shopping are in order to get this sucker fixed once and for all.
Oh, and the @TheForger CV axle puller tool is still working perfectly!
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
- Thread starter
- #70
Final update, rig is fixed. Outstanding help from @Mauser . Ended up being a completely welded outer spindle nut that had fused itself to the spindle and destroyed the outer threads. Replacement spindle, axle, hub, new front brake pads, and everything is sorted.
I hate wheel bearing jobs!
I hate wheel bearing jobs!
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
That was a fun project. Thanks for letting me help.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
Friction. Lots of it
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
- Thread starter
- #74
It did require Mauser's mechanic's flame thrower to cut the spindle nut, then some fairly determined chiseling for him to split it wide enough apart to pry and chisel off of the end of the spindle. The locking nut slid right off, and the inner spindle nut spun off with some effort using the 54mm socket.
It actually looked to me like everything survived OK and would be resuable (minus the wheel bearing/races, outer spindle nut, and having to rethread the spindle) afterwards. Even the rear oil seal on the hub was fine.
TOP TIP: when installing the front brake pads using the Mr. T shim kit, don't guess and just follow the supplied directions if you can read them. The outer shiny metallic shim is a royal PITA otherwise.
In retrospect, what I did was DANGEROUS. Had that outer spindle nut failed at any time, it would have been game over in a spectacular way.
It actually looked to me like everything survived OK and would be resuable (minus the wheel bearing/races, outer spindle nut, and having to rethread the spindle) afterwards. Even the rear oil seal on the hub was fine.
TOP TIP: when installing the front brake pads using the Mr. T shim kit, don't guess and just follow the supplied directions if you can read them. The outer shiny metallic shim is a royal PITA otherwise.
In retrospect, what I did was DANGEROUS. Had that outer spindle nut failed at any time, it would have been game over in a spectacular way.
