Wifey's '73 FJ55 Build-up

[Lee777]

Ok, i must admit, I am fully addicted to landcruisers. I already own a BJ60 which I have been working on obsessively since April, but I have a soft spot for FJ55's. After looking around for a couple of months, I came across this 1973 FJ55 opportunity. The wife saw it and immediatley took dibs on it (which I thought was a real turn on btw). So I figured I could build up this FJ55 as a testament to my love for her. What follows is the good:

 

[OinkOinker]

your on a winner there..... both the missus and the pig!

 

[Lee777]

Thanks OInk!

Pictures of "The Bad" will follow.
I look forward to the feedback!

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Clean rig, looking like good fun driver.

Good luck

Rob

 

[jmylie]

Nice 55. Interesting in that it is 1 color instead of two tone.

Is the mono tone color original?

I ask because I have an all green 77 55. Even the interior is green, no white anywhere (even under the rear seat).

 

[romegadave]

Nice rig....you've already got the addiction so you're hopeless just like the rest of usWhat are your plans? Stayin' stock or some mods? Gonna stay with those wheels or something else? Looking forward to hearing more from you---Dave

 

[Lee777]

She wants to keep it as stock as possible. She even wants to keep the same cream/black colour scheme which I think is pretty cool/sophisticated. Jmylie, it would be interesting to look into whether that colour is a stock colour.

Ive done an overall assessment:

1)Body: is fair except for the usual areas which will need to be patched. Problem areas: the rockers, the usual section of the drivers side floor board, parts of the wheel well, but in general the body is repairable. I was surprised to see the main body panels and the rain gutters in such good shape. Plan on doing a body off resto. Hoping to have it stripped down this winter and to get welding in february.

2) Engine: Since it is a 73 it should be an F engine?. I havent been able to locate the id tag on it? It runs (a bit rough) and doesnt smoke! The previous owner may have rebuilt it (im unsure) since their is a orange cover on the engine which i dont think is stock (see pic below). There is oil leaking out of the gasket areas so that denfinitely needs to be replaced. Im considering rebuilding the manifold, replacing the gaskets, plugs, distributor, wires... to start, and then to assess whether I need to go further.

3) Frame (in excellent condition) and drive train: Frame is better than my '84 BJ60! Plan on media blasting the frame and POR-15 treatment. Dont plan on removing the drive train from the frame if I dont have to. Havent had a chance to shift it much so not sure about the trany yet. Plan on changing all the gear oils and greasing zerks. I would like to put an OME light suspension in but id have to convince my wife of the 2.5 inch lift it would give. Tires: 31" BFJ A/T with stock hubcaps (if I can find em)??

4) Brakes: have not been that well assessed. The truck stops but the brakes are that responsive. Plan on replacing shoes/drums, brake lines, master cyl, slave cyl.

5) Interior: The dash and consoles are in pretty good condition. THere are 2 cracks on the dash about 1.5 inches long. Missing the horn pad and steering column cover. While the vinyl upholstry is in pretty good shape, I plan on replacing it with something custom in black. Same with the floors (black). I want to go diamond plate in the cargo area. The ceiling will be redone. Tail gate actually went down about 2 inches then stopped there...So i know I have power, hopefully just need to replace that "special plastic gear", take apart the mechanism and regrease it.

Pictures:
1) yellow cap, dont think that is stock?

2) Rust

3) Rockers (dissolved, looks like some metal was slapped on)

4)Body mount rust (replace?):

5)frame:

6)

 

[SD_rdcruzer]

Looks to be in pretty good shape for a 73. That rust will be challenging to clean up.
I think the engine is a 2f, by the valve cover and the location of the oil filter.
Check the p/s of the block for your engine #, towards the rear. Replacement blocks did not have #'s stamped into them.
Congrats on the new project.

 

[CandyPants]

Looks like a fun and worthwhile project. Just you wait until you get the weather stripping and those aluminum kick plates off, then you'll see what you are in for as far as the rust. It sounds like you have great plans for the old piggy. I can't wait to see it progress!

 

[Lee777]

Began Deconstruction

Progress has been slow but at least its progress

I dismanteled all the interior but the headliner and the dash/instruments/wiring so as to expose the main rust issues (see pics below). As K9krazy mentioned, to no surprise there were some rust issues hiding under that vinyl matting and kick plates but it was alot better than I imagined. Im really liking the idea of mounting the body on a rotisserie which can be fabbed up using 2 engine mounts. I figure it will be worth the effort in the long run.

The other concern I have is the tailgate. The lower part is quite rusted and has lost its shape such that it rubs on the body when it is pulled down. Im wondering if i can be patched along the lower seam?

Im having difficulty getting the steering wheel off. The SOR body/chassis manual describes the use of a SST. Im wondering if I could fabricate my own somehow. Perhaps there is some other trick to do this?

I think its so cool how that rear heater works by radiating engine heat through the use of water. The manual said to shut off the water valve before dissassembly, does anyone know where this is located?


Interior pics:

Drivers side front floorboard

PS rear floorboard

PS front floorboard

Lower Tailgate. Notice the rust has made the lower seam warped. I wonder if this could be patched.

 

[CandyPants]

Check out my build thread. I had very similar rust issues on my '73. https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...y/136876-my-piggy-restoration-going-slow.html. My tailgate was rusted at the bottom and we just cut it at the bottom and up about 4 inches and welded in a patch. Good as new. But if it's both inside and out, it might be worth it to look for a replacement.

 

[Trollhole]

You have a 2f. Looks like they retained the 73 manifolds and carb.

Any holes on the side of the head under where the air cleaner mounts to the head?

 

[Lee777]

Hey Marshall,

I cant seem to find the engine id, perhaps it was painted over. If i knew where to look I could clean the area and try and look for it.

Here are the pics of the area you were mentioning. The first pic is from above the air cleaner bracket and the second one is from below (note the second picture needs to be flipped 90 degrees counter clockwise to match the same orientation as the first pic)

1)

2)

thanks again for your help
Lee

 

[tucker74]

Im having difficulty getting the steering wheel off. The SOR body/chassis manual describes the use of a SST. Im wondering if I could fabricate my own somehow. Perhaps there is some other trick to do this?

Loosen the nut but leave it threaded on the end, then hit the back of the wheel w/ a rubber mallet Don't ask me how I learned the leaving the nut on part

Tucker

 

[Trollhole]

Post 3 and 23

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/82256-2f-serial-number-info.html


Search in the 40 section for how to remove the stearing wheel. It's easy to make a tool.

You have an earlier 2f.

 

[Lee777]

Duh,
I finally found the "Engine Emission Control Specifications"

It identifies the engine as a 2F!

I should have seen that before

 

[Lee777]

Deconstruction update

A rare opportunity presented itself today. I suddenly am given the day off and there's no way to cancel the childcare that was arranged for today. The wife is at work, kids are taken care of....

Time to work on the piggy!

I was able to get in about 4 hrs today. I focused on the removing the tailgate and rear signal marker lights.

The large head screws that attach the hinge to the tailgate have been soaked in wd-40 for about 2 months now, and they still dont budge. So i resorted to drilling off the screw heads to separate them:

I will have to drill out the remaining screw if I want to reuse the backing. I may just opt to fabricate a new backing to receive the screw threads when I put it a back together. I really didnt see any other choice but to destructively remove the screws

After drilling out the screws that attach the hinge to the tailgate, I had to figure out how to diassemble the wires going to the tailgate pushed the tailgate glass up half way so I could get at the relay (I think thats what its called):

Since I have minimal electrical knowledge, I labelled the wires so I could refit them when I put it back together.

With the wires disconnected I could remove the rusty ol tailgate. I turned my attention to removing the hinges and torsion bar from the body:

I could see where rust had accumulated at the base of the tailgate opening. I will prolly have to refab the body in these areas. I noticed that while unscrewing the protective plate, the screws did not have much bite = rust.

I then went on to remove the tail lights:

I was surprised I was able to back out the screws without any breakage. In one case the screw head was stripped so I used a cutoff blade on my grinder to fashion a slot which would accept a large flat head screwdriver... it then came off. To my surprise, most of the rubber seals were ok which is a bonus since they are soo expensive

Everything went smoothly until i got to removing the rear, side, vent valances. While the light came off with ease, the valance is attached with bolts on the inside of the body, these are completely rusted and inaccessible:

The bolt is completely stripped and I cant get my grinder at it. I guess one option is to use a cutoff blade on a dremel.. it would probably lead to cutting/destroying the threads. If that were to happen, i guess i would have to refab the threads which are attached to the vent valance.

Any ideas on how to remove this without destroying the threads???

Lee

 

[cruiserbrett]

destroy the threads and once out drillout the remainder and jb weld in a 4 mm screw minus head. done it a few times.

works like a charm.

 

[Lee777]

Front Left Fender disassebly

Time for an update. Its amazing how simply removing this fender has given me the sense of some kind of progress.

To remove the fender I employed several techniques: lots of wd-40, angle grinder with cutoff disk, oh ya and a socket wrench. With all but 2 bolts broken/grinded-off and some sheared off knuckle skin, I manged to get this thing off. And you know it looked so nice on the exterior. I told myself, "the rust aint too bad", and then behold! Cancer everywhere:

Front drivers side fender removed. Notice the inner apron is completely rusted out. This will have to be repalced/fabricated. Perhaps this a good place to start learning?

Notice all bolts have been snapped off and are imbedded in the threads. Ha ha

Inner left fender facing the firewall. I really have my work cut out for me.

Lee

 

[LC_Hamma]

Congrats on the new project Just seeing all that rust brings me back to why I cut as much of it out as possible. I spent countless hours underneath repairing & welding in new metal as needed. Have you checked all the body mounts yet? I'd buy a couple bottles of mapp gas cuz you'll need it to remove all the body bolts knowing those are bad areas. There are a few builds on here showing rocker repairs, most using new 1 X 3 or 2 X 4 mat'l. as sliders. The low hanging rear body area is succeptible to having junk in the trunk - compacted dirt/ rust. I'm sure you'll be checkin that out Mine was heavily rusted so it got the chop. Keep up the progress pics!