Why E-Locker Should Be Locked Before Pulling Axle Shafts (1 Viewer)

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The rear diff does not need to be locked as long as you have a ~5 foot fiberglass CB antenna on the truck. Your buddy can hold your beer and eyeball it from the opposite side as you re-align the collar with the antenna..:grinpimp:

I remember you helping me at Slick Rock with this about a decade ago. I recall beer was in both of our hands. :lol:
 
The rear diff does not need to be locked as long as you have a ~5 foot fiberglass CB antenna on the truck. Your buddy can hold your beer and eyeball it from the opposite side as you re-align the collar with the antenna..:grinpimp:

@NLXTACY
Joey, why the hell don't you have a laser etched tool for this yet? The axle "Diggler" alignment tool.
 
I have to agree that I don't like the design of the rear 80-series e-locker. They are a PITA to re-gear and set the pattern and backlash, with those stupid side shims.

But the front hi-pinion and the TRD Tacoma/4Runner e-lockers are much more reliable. They don't have the spline twist issue, because the axle shafts don't have the longer splines, and the cog doesn't ride on the axle. Yes, you have to lock them to remove. You have to pull the actuator anyway. So if you forgot to lock it, just reach in the hole with a screwdriver and slide the fork over, easy-peasy.
 
I remember you helping me at Slick Rock with this about a decade ago. I recall beer was in both of our hands. :lol:

I think we used my antenna..........I mean SST :flipoff2:
 
Edited to leave out the can of worms, and stay on topic.

I agree the front needs to be locked to get it to clear the housing.
It's only the rear that has the locking ring floating.
 
I was just lucky, I pulled both front axles, fitted a new birf to one and slid them straight in without even thinking about the locker, since then I have done quite a few and lock if possible before pulling them out based on general opinions.......you know...just in case.

Regards

Dave
 
This is yet another reason the factory lockers are a pain in the ass. If you forget to lock and try to re-assemble, it won't work. Or the splines twist and you have to cut into the housing to free it up. Stupid design.

The only thing factory lockers have going for them is that they are often free with a truck. But for all other purposes, another selectable locker like Harrop or ARB is better in every way.
Yeah must be total garbage to function perfectly after more than 25yrs.
 
Yeah must be total garbage to function perfectly after more than 25yrs.

Splines twist and you have to cut housing = works perfectly. OK.
 
Yeah must be total garbage to function perfectly after more than 25yrs.

I too must say mine are 24 years old and totally original, nothing in the service record. Neither front or rear worked when I purchased the car, I guess the doctor never needed them? A few figure eights and they started working fine.

Still in there untouched, I reckon they will rust and fall off before failing.

Regards

Dave
 
The only thing factory lockers have going for them is that they are often free with a truck. But for all other purposes, another selectable locker like Harrop or ARB is better in every way.

I had to pull my neighbor’s kid out of a snowbank recently. This was Dad’s truck with ARBs in the all too typical not engaging mode. My lockers engaged. As they always do.

Guess it depends what you want. The best rear locker is an auto locker. Always on when you need it. There is zero reason to have a selectable locker in the rear of a long wheelbase AWD truck, but I’m not dumping a working locker.
 
My brother and I just pulled the 3rd out of the front of my 80 a few days ago, without knowing about this. So with that, is there anything that I can do now, with the 3rd on the bench to insure that re-installing everything is going to go smoothly.

O.P.
Don't mean to hi-jack the thread!!!!
 
I think what's missing the point is that the majority of damaged shaft splines and other maladies is down to modifications outside of the original design specifications.

I have had ARB air lockers, my avitar shows my Discovery in full flight at a Land Rover sponsored event, despite a lot of work they rarely gave trouble, the odd air leak from a seal, oil blowing up to and out of a solenoid...the usual suspects, I had the car for around four years and they were installed new as soon as I got the car, and reckon they gave issues perhaps half a dozen times if that, it was a long time ago but a reasonable guess, in general a thumbs up for them but, I am in my eighth year with this 80 and factory lockers, and they have gone wrong.......er, never, so two thumbs up! :D

Regards

Dave
 
the odd air leak from a seal, oil blowing up to and out of a solenoid...the usual suspects

The usual suspects. Kind of like driving a Jeep.
 
If the diff is out of the axle, you can easily lock it by hand. Just push the fork/cog. This is assuming the actuator isn't installed.

If the diff is still in the axle, remove the actuator, you can move the fork with a screwdriver.

If the actuator is installed, you can lock/unlock it with a cordless drill battery.


I'm about to do my front axle and trying to find information on locking the axle with a battery. Does anyone know how this is done?
I have no motor or battery in the truck since im rebuilding it and figured id do the front axle service before i put the motor back in.
Am i worrying too much and will likely be fine pulling front axles without it being locked?
 

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