Why didn't you guys tell me - Now a 570 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[pdxlc200]

Updates on the LX:

Random No Start Issue
Thought I'd update the thread on a few things. The mysterious non-starting has gone away. The starter completely died on me however so I had it towed to a friends house who put a new one on. Perhaps the starter was the source of those intermittent woes? Time will tell; I still lean towards a random immobilizer issue but we will see if it manifests itself again.


CTEK Dual Batt BMS
Now on to another electrical issue on the vehicle on a system several of you were interested in: Saddly the CTEK system has not panned out the way I had hoped it would. It is not charging the second batt the way it should if at all many times. It is not delivering power to the house side accessories the way it should and now the super cool voltmeter with estimated hours remaining is inoperable also. I've replaced batteries to make sure that was not at fault and fully topped them off prior to handing over those duties to the CTEK.

I've checked wiring diagrams from CTEK and that is not the problem. I've emailed CTEK and that has been lackluster as well. In reading the literature I suspect one issue is the temp sensors are preventing the system from pretty much doing it's job at all due to being located in the engine bay. It's 100F ambient around here plenty; without the engine running, and not in a metal box like a vehicle. The max operating range is 122F and it says it reduces performance at the upper temp range. That just doesn't seem designed for an engine bay in my opinion.

I'm going to throw in the towel with this expensive setup and probably go with a simple Blue Sea ACR setup.

Do yourself a favor and look at the Blue Sea 7622. Many of us are using it and it works like a dream. Also, it is fairly inexpensive and made in the USA.

 

[tabraha]

Do yourself a favor and look at the Blue Sea 7622. Many of us are using it and it works like a dream. Also, it is fairly inexpensive and made in the USA.

Thanks! Looks a little more flexible with the remote switch and manual lockout than the package I was looking at.

 

[steve578]

CTEK Dual Batt BMS
Now on to another electrical issue on the vehicle on a system several of you were interested in: Saddly the CTEK system has not panned out the way I had hoped it would. It is not charging the second batt the way it should if at all many times. It is not delivering power to the house side accessories the way it should and now the super cool voltmeter with estimated hours remaining is inoperable also. I've replaced batteries to make sure that was not at fault and fully topped them off prior to handing over those duties to the CTEK.

I've checked wiring diagrams from CTEK and that is not the problem. I've emailed CTEK and that has been lackluster as well. In reading the literature I suspect one issue is the temp sensors are preventing the system from pretty much doing it's job at all due to being located in the engine bay. It's 100F ambient around here plenty; without the engine running, and not in a metal box like a vehicle. The max operating range is 122F and it says it reduces performance at the upper temp range. That just doesn't seem designed for an engine bay in my opinion.

I'm going to throw in the towel with this expensive setup and probably go with a simple Blue Sea ACR setup.

Thank you for this update. I have this system on the way to me, but after reading this, I will likely send it back.

 

[tabraha]

Thank you for this update. I have this system on the way to me, but after reading this, I will likely send it back.

I'm not saying it won't work. But I am saying mine didn't. The fact these are in use in AUS would make me think the heat should not be an issue but I have NOT had a positive experience with their support. The Blue Sea stuff is so proven and honestly simple to understand it definitely is the route for me. Once I get the system off I intend on sending it back to see if there is something wrong with my sample perhaps.

 

[TonyP]

I'd go with Blue Sea or Redarc. My Redarc unit has been flawless. The only shortcoming is the lack of monitoring. But a $15 volt gauge and you're set.

 

[steve578]

I'm not saying it won't work. But I am saying mine didn't. The fact these are in use in AUS would make me think the heat should not be an issue but I have NOT had a positive experience with their support. The Blue Sea stuff is so proven and honestly simple to understand it definitely is the route for me. Once I get the system off I intend on sending it back to see if there is something wrong with my sample perhaps.

When I was researching the CTEK, I couldn't find out much about it. As you stated, there is some info out of AUS, but not much. I decided to go with the IBS system.

 

[Mogwai]

@RET2 runs CTEK and has had good experience. I run the 7622 w/ switch, but no monitor (see no need to monitor live, I can always test from time to time). The 7622 is simple which is why I went with it. Never read ANYTHING negative to say about them, but found plenty of cases where entire systems inexplicably were drained.

No matter the system you get you should install the diode to ensure charging volts get over 14V to meet the needs of the AGM batteries.

 

[tabraha]

No matter the system you get you should install the diode to ensure charging volts get over 14V to meet the needs of the AGM batteries.

@Mogwai help me out on this one as what you say makes complete sense on the charging voltage. I don't exactly know what I should be looking to buy though.

 

[Mogwai]

Np, see this thread: Odyssey Batteries - How to Charge? Diode or DC DC Charger?

 

[LXinOBX]

The pic turned out better than I thought but it doesn't really show what I wanted to show. Can't get to where it is really anchored. The screw goes THROUGH the foam so the foam is more like a sandwich that the screw goes through. Seems pretty stable so far. I have a long gravel drive so if anything is not sturdy it shows up pretty quickly.

Hi Tad, great write up - some questions, if you don't mind...

1) can you tell me how this light bar install has held up - in that the "Styrofoam" is sandwiched, as you say, has it remained stable?
2) You just drilled/screwed the mounting fasteners into the cross member below? Nothing running inside of the cross member to be concerned with?
3) The Rigid midnight light pattern - are you happy with it? I'm leaning toward a combo spectre to get more roadside illumination, but there is no midnight version (only spot and hyperspot)

Thanks so much for any advice/guidance!

Bill

 

[tabraha]

Hi Tad, great write up - some questions, if you don't mind...

1) can you tell me how this light bar install has held up - in that the "Styrofoam" is sandwiched, as you say, has it remained stable?
2) You just drilled/screwed the mounting fasteners into the cross member below? Nothing running inside of the cross member to be concerned with?
3) The Rigid midnight light pattern - are you happy with it? I'm leaning toward a combo spectre to get more roadside illumination, but there is no midnight version (only spot and hyperspot)

Thanks so much for any advice/guidance!

Bill

It is holding up well. Haven't had to tighten anything up or make any adjustments. I'll see if there's some way I can snap another picture but it's tight quarters in there.

The pattern has worked well for me as I was looking for reach. It definitely does that considering how low it is mounted it does a good job. If it were up higher on a brush guard it would of course be better but it definitely has improved light downrange.

 

[Slooooooow]

...blinking and 4LO/VSC/EVAP code periodically ...

This one's plagued my '11 LX 570 (almost a twin of yours) lately and I wonder if you ever got a root cause and resolution.

 

[LXinOBX]

It is holding up well. Haven't had to tighten anything up or make any adjustments. I'll see if there's some way I can snap another picture but it's tight quarters in there.

The pattern has worked well for me as I was looking for reach. It definitely does that considering how low it is mounted it does a good job. If it were up higher on a brush guard it would of course be better but it definitely has improved light downrange.

That's OK no need for a pic - so long as it has stayed "tight" that's all I needed to know. And to confirm, you just drilled straighht into the cross meber (below the foam) with a self tapping fastener, correct?

 

[tabraha]

That's OK no need for a pic - so long as it has stayed "tight" that's all I needed to know. And to confirm, you just drilled straighht into the cross meber (below the foam) with a self tapping fastener, correct?

Correct.

This one's plagued my '11 LX 570 (almost a twin of yours) lately and I wonder if you ever got a root cause and resolution.

Supposedly the ECU's on these are very sensitive to voltage jumps. It took awhile for me to isolate when/what caused my dash Christmas tree started but it ended up being that my CTEK BMS install that coincided with my issues. Since then I made the switch to Blue Sea for my dual battery management and have not had the first glitch with this problem. It's been months and thousands of miles now so I feel pretty good about it now.

I'd also add that I did get a couple evap codes when I first bought the LX b/c I would add another squeeze of fuel after the pump clicked off. No evap codes since changing that approach.

 

[LXinOBX]

The pic turned out better than I thought but it doesn't really show what I wanted to show. Can't get to where it is really anchored. The screw goes THROUGH the foam so the foam is more like a sandwich that the screw goes through. Seems pretty stable so far. I have a long gravel drive so if anything is not sturdy it shows up pretty quickly.

tabraha, if I could ask two last questions -

1) to confirm, there is no "nut" on the other end of the fastener going through the foam, correct? You simply drilled a hole though he foam and aluminum cross bar - using a self tapping fastener to secure?

2) Did you have to remove the grill or lower grill to drill the pilot hole? Trying to find best way of drilling pilot hole without removing any parts

Thanks so much

 

[LXinOBX]

Just a gentle bump....

 

[LXinOBX]

Just a gentle bump....

I'm an idiot....Tad did earlier confirm the light bar mount is self tap screed into the cross meber - sill seeking advice if needed to remove lower grill to drill the pilot hole

 

[tabraha]

I'm an idiot....Tad did earlier confirm the light bar mount is self tap screed into the cross meber - sill seeking advice if needed to remove lower grill to drill the pilot hole

Sorry, been offline for a bit. Didn’t have to remove the lower grill. Came in from up above. Way up above lol. Looked at things tonight and everything is still snug as a bug. My biggest concern was vibration wearing on the foam but it has not been an issue at all and just going up and down my drive is a 1.25mi gravel trip!

 

[LXinOBX]

Thanks so much! By chance do you recall the self tapping bolt size you used?

 

[tabraha]

Thanks so much! By chance do you recall the self tapping bolt size you used?

I don't. Been about a year and I'm lucky if I can remember a week ago LOL. Walked out and tried to look just now but it's hard to get a feel for it and I'd hate to tell you wrong.