Who needs FST door handles and how much would you pay?

[JohnnyC]

Different times I had to drill and tap it... The first time I went small screw the second time went larger

The larger one I had to redu the whole shaft ... My welding has a lot to be desired lol I went to the school of PO-U

It's inevitable with the amount of times those doors had come on and off over the past twenty + years from my DD 40... Original is pretty soft metal as LITP had said

Btw I have not forgotten the window pulls... As everyone else here ... Been busy with life

I will get the them soon

 

[peteinjp]

It seems to me the easiest way to go about reproducing these would be to take a screwed up on one and flatten it out. Someone's got to have one it's basically unusable…

Pete

 

[Bluegrass40]

For what it's worth. I made a quick model of the part you sketched up. There were definitely some dims that I could have used, but took a stab at it. Have a look. I can forward the .dxf to you if you pm me your email address. I "guessed" at some dims and feature locations based on the features that you drew in you sketch....

Let me know if this helps...

 

[antFJ]

Uh yeah that helps a lot!! Pm on the way

 

[antFJ]

I just got my doors back from the sandblaster and compared them with the OEM handles. The holes on my doors are definitely worn and the stock handles flop around inside them. But the good news is I have found a solution. A while back I used some bushings from mcmaster carr and had a few left. these are 12mm inner diameter and fit on the stock handle perfectly! These are flanged bushings... I will be using the sleeve version of the same bushing which will fit nicely on the handles. You then simply drill out the holes with a 15mm drill bit and you're good to go!

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-metric-sleeve-bearings/=xfwvvd

http://www.amazon.com/Straight-Shan..._cp_469_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1D8T35HP8VYFHH9BK6F3

This washer would be used between the handle and door skin
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=xfx1ci

 

[antFJ]

@JohnnyC No worries on the clips - I just appreciate you taking the time to make them. any chance you have the part number for the return spring?

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Thanks for the tip Peteinjp.

I was going to do the same thing...just guessing at dims. I use NX, not SW, but if you're just making a .dxf it doesn't matter.

I have a buddy that's in weld-school and has access to a plasma and brake. I was planning on seeing if he had the capacity to knock a a set out. I think I'll just heat the rounded piece up and pound a radius in it using a 4-"dia. pipe and BFH. It doesn't look like it has a circular radius though.

 

[antFJ]

I plan on beating them over an old rail road track piece if the fabricator doesn't have something more sophisticated.

Finally the shaft... since I will be using the bushings I see no reason to get crazy high grade steel for the shaft... plus I planned on doing the welding and I have no idea how hard it is to weld 1060 steel compared to regular old low carbon steel. I also figure the low carbon steel will be easier to machine/drill/tap? Can anyone provide any advice or insight?

low carbon - http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-rod-stock/=xfxbgj
high strength - http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-steel-rod-stock/=xfxbrv

 

[JohnnyC]

FST door spring 90506-16191

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Mild steel will be easier to work with and if you're going to use the bushings, then I don't see a benefit to the tool steel.

You could also do a heat-treat to the finished assembly to harden the outer surface of the shaft for wear resistance.

 

[antFJ]

Okay thanks. Someone had mentioned welding a sleeve inside the door. This is another alternative however i think the sleeve bushings should last a long time. When they get worn you can just flip them on the shaft and at $1.28 a piece i see it as an easier way to go. This way those that already have assembled doors can use them without taking apart what they have

 

[antFJ]

I plan on getting 5 sets. Not sure on the price yet.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Here's my stab at a model of it. This would be for the rear ambulance, upper, inner handle and the USPS inner, I think. Driver's side the latching tab and spring tab would be mirrored.

I just used half an inch for the bends, 3/16 for material thickness which seems a bit thick and an eighth for the radii. I didn't attempt to model the curve of the handle, I think the way it's modeled, there'll be enough material there to get the desired radius from the flat pattern.

Feel free to dimension the 'drawings' and I can adjust the model, then send a .dxf off to see if I can get it cut out.

 

[antFJ]

What is the length on the handle? It seems long.

Also update on the pricing....for materials and cutting out the flat parts im in at about $150 for 10 sets (a set being both inner and outer handles for both doors). So enough for 10 trucks.

After getting the connecting shafts (20 of them) made, paying someone to bend the handles up, and welding the shafts I will be probably looking at 100-150 dollars a set. This would include the bushings, plastic washers, spring (haven't checked the price/availability on this yet though), bolts and 15mm drill bit

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

What is the length on the handle? It seems long.

5 inches or so, I was just going off your sketch on page one of this thread.

Also update on the pricing....for materials and cutting out the flat parts im in at about $150 for 10 sets (a set being both inner and outer handles for both doors). So enough for 10 trucks.
After getting the connecting shafts (20 of them) made, paying someone to bend the handles up, and welding the shafts I will be probably looking at 100-150 dollars a set. This would include the bushings, plastic washers, spring (haven't checked the price/availability on this yet though), bolts and 15mm drill bit

Seems reasonable.

 

[antFJ]

These may help

 

[peteinjp]

Sound reasonable to me. I'll have to dig thru my stash and check the condition of the ones I have. Might just have to hit you up for a set.

Pete

 

[antFJ]

spring is NLA

 

[gr8ful]

If it helps, there is nothing special to the spring. I think you could buy good knockoffs online somewhere pretty easily. I can take pictures & measurements of the ones I have if will help. I can't guarantee that they are OEM though, as it seems like it could be an easily & regularly replaced thing.

 

[antFJ]

Yeah ill just grab some aftermarket ones from lowes.