Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ)

[DanS HJ-45]

That's a funny color to ceramic coat the manifold

Funny.


This comment and Onur's made me think "I wonder if I can get a rust-ey ceramic coat". Seriously.

But I won't take the manifold for coating until the exhaust is at least tacked up. I still need the turbo located to be able to fab up the exhaust.

...which I am doing today. Taking a dinner break right now. Pictures later.

Dan

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Pictures!

First I replaced the water pump. I also deleted the vacuum line that crosses under the timing cover, because I figure having the vacuum line exit on the left from the pump, then go to the reservoir, and then the vacuum booster (all on the left side of the truck) is simpler, and avoids routing things near that exhaust.

I also did the Timing Belt. That's a new belt, pulley, and tensioner. Plus, the camshaft seal and the oil seal around the IP shaft were replaced with new.

Once that was buttoned up (although not for the last time, but for now....) I bolted on the AC bracketry....

And then I set to tinkering with the exhaust.

I must say that putting 308 wire in the MiG sure works a treat! It really welds very nicely on the 304 stainless. Much easier than I was expecting. I will say that the tack welds are MUCH stronger and harder to undo than my tacks in mild steel. Part of my tinkering involved removing some of the stuff I had tacked, and I must say it was a LOT more work that cutting the tacks off of mild steel.

Here's the (mostly) finished product.... You guys are right, it will be plenty easy to fabricate a new brake line from the master cylinder all the way to the rear axle along the left side of the frame, and I can fabricate a heat shield over the small section on the right rear where the brake line will be somewhat near the exhaust. Easy enough.

Here's a mockup of the bracket to hold the exhaust. I bought 304 stainless flat bar for this. The factory Toyota rubber bricks will attach to the exhaust, and I will fabricate a mild steel bracket to hang it off of.

This exhaust alignment keeps the exhaust entirely above the frame rail, and should have plenty of clearance around the driveshaft. The only thing I haven't decided is what to do about a muffler, if anything. I have enough tube to weld up a straight pipe, with a removable section that could be replaced with a muffler. I don't think I need (or want) much muffling at all. I'm seriously considering just putting one of these on:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-24249/overview/

But I'm also considering a more traditional (but still pretty compact) muffler like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-st3243/overview/

But then, maybe just a resonator would do well? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sle-31066/overview/

I'm pretty sure the turbo will do the VAST majority of the exhaust muffling, but I don't want to hear a drone on the highway. I got one with the faux-lux when I ran it with a straight pipe for a while and I loved everything about the exhaust, except for that drone at 43mph going up a very specific hill. Of course, I drove that hill enough to realize that it only happened at that speed (the speed that the truck went up the hill), and it was positively maddening. So I put a muffler on it. It's that drone that I want to avoid on this truck too.

EDIT--another option is for me to just attach a turndown at the end of the exhaust at it sits now, and evaluate it once I drive it. Decide how much of a muffler I want on there after putting some miles on it. It would be VERY easy to add a turndown to the exhaust where it is now.

Dan

 

[DanS HJ-45]

You know what?

I forgot to attach pics of the valve cover. I stripped it (since it was scratched and stuff) and put new paint on it. It's a lot darker than the stock color, but I like it. It's a metallic paint that Dad had in the cabinet that he had labelled as "close to pewter" for the 40s.

The engine is pretty much done, BTW. Just waiting on injectors to come back and I can reassemble the rest of it!

Dan

 

[IanB]

I'm glad you reconsidered your exhaust routing, this is a MUCH better routing IMO.

For a muffler, this is what I'm running, on my ATEB 3" setup:

Aero Exhaust AT3030XL Performance Muffler 3" inside diameter (Medium Sound)

Baffle-less design, free flowing, deep sound, good tone, no drone.

Edit: here's a video from you-tube of the same setup as I have.

 

[roma042987]

That down pipe looks great with the flex joint and stainless pipe. Makes me kind of wish I made the exhaust on my 61 out of stainless instead of the aluminized pipe. Are you going to do the exhaust in two or three sections then?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

That down pipe looks great with the flex joint and stainless pipe. Makes me kind of wish I made the exhaust on my 61 out of stainless instead of the aluminized pipe. Are you going to do the exhaust in two or three sections then?

Thanks! I have never done a full 304 stainless exhaust before, but I really didn't want to ever have to deal with rust on this truck to the extent possible, so....

I have enough flanges and clamps to make it in three sections, which is what I will likely do. I could probably get away with two, but I like the idea of being able to take the entire exhaust out of the truck without moving heaven, earth, the motor, or axle.

The section that you see here would be the first. It should be removable as is, and at worst case I could jack up the transmission, remove the crossmember and then remove this section--pretty easy.

The second section would be the straight section from this to the bends over the axle, and this is the section that I'm considering making two pieces--one with a muffler, and one without.

The third section would go over the axle, and out the back.

Dan

 

[roma042987]

The three sections would be nice that way you can add or remove the last section with the muffler. Could make a straight pipe and also make a muffler one and switch them out as needed. I made mine out of two pieces and can remove either one without have to unbolt anything other than the skid plate.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Love the exhaust routing

The 308 stainless filler rod, did you put the spool into your machine or did you have to run a spool gun?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Love the exhaust routing

The 308 stainless filler rod, did you put the spool into your machine or did you have to run a spool gun?

Just put it into the machine (Miller 210). Didn't have to change anything else even, since the polarity for mild steel and stainless is the same. I did have to make an adapter since I normally run a 16b spool, and the E308 spool only came in a 10b flavor at our local welding shop. At least, unless I wanted to spend beauceaup bucks, which I figure this spool will last me for YEARS.

Only a short stay, so I'm headed back to CO this afternoon.

But this morning I moved the auxiliary tank back a little...

It's still pretty tight near the rear T-case output flange--as you can see. I may elongate the holes a little bit to allow the aux tank to slide to the left just a little more.

I also painted and mounted the power steering cooler. I'm just using one straight from an FJ-62.

That's it for now. Back to work.

Dan

 

[OGBeno]

RUSTY HARDWARE?!?!?!?!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

RUSTY HARDWARE?!?!?!?!

Only the bolts for the T-case. Just a hint of the Australian red dirt--no rust.

The flange just hasn't been dealt with yet. It will be powder coated black as soon as I remember to order two new dust shields.

Dan

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Nice work on the exhaust! I did the same in-so-far-as going with v-band clamps and stainless steel. I have removed and worked on the exhaust two or three times since and it is crazy how much easier it is. No snapped bolts or skinned knuckles.

I started with no muffler (this is my BJ42 I'm referring to) and a straight run down the right side dumping behind the right rear tire ( I wanted the soot on the right side of my trailer rather than the left). I found the exhaust note about 8% too loud, mostly when the passenger window was down and passing a jersey barrier. It sounded friggin sweet off road where the forest mellowed the grunt of the 3B just a touch. I added a muffler that was more or less just a resonator and it took 85% of the noise away. At first. After a few 1000km most of the little holes in the interior were plugged with soot and it got almost all the noise back.

My point is that working on the exhaust was infinitely easier in stainless and with those v-band clamps.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Hey those aren't the V-band style clamps I was thinking of - just saw the pics again. But you'll get the same net effect with those.

 

[efjay6tee]

Sorry if this has already been discussed, but I'm planning a 1hz in my 60 and exhaust routing has been on the brain. I'd like to route just like yours but I'm concerned with how close the exhaust will be to the transfer case and all of the fuel lines running along the frame. Are you going to take any precautions to insulate the exhaust or is this not as big of a deal as I'm making it? Thanks.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Sorry if this has already been discussed, but I'm planning a 1hz in my 60 and exhaust routing has been on the brain. I'd like to route just like yours but I'm concerned with how close the exhaust will be to the transfer case and all of the fuel lines running along the frame. Are you going to take any precautions to insulate the exhaust or is this not as big of a deal as I'm making it? Thanks.

There's a bit of discussion about that issue over the past few days.

I moved my fuel lines to the left side of the frame--so not close to the exhaust at all.
I will move my rear brake line to the left side of the frame as well--to get it away from the exhaust as well.

The T-case is very close, but I'm not going to worry about it. It's not touching, and I'm hoping there will be enough air flow around it to keep the T-case from getting TOO hot. But it will certainly heat up my T-case, no doubt about it. If I decide that the heat radiating out of the exhaust is too much I will take that first section of the exhaust off and have it ceramic coated.

Dan

 

[efjay6tee]

Great information Dan! Moving the lines to the DR side of the frame is well worth the ability to run the exhaust cleanly along the pass side. Thanks

 

[cruisermatt]

Or you could run the first ever split-case cooler Dan!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Or you could run the first ever split-case cooler Dan!

Drain plug to fill plug hose, with a cooler online and a pump to circulate the oil. Brilliant?

Dan

 

[cruisermatt]

Only thing left to add for that is a second fill plug at the top of the case so you can overfill it to account for the lines and cooler.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

So while I'm in CO I am doing what I can on the wiring harness and other smaller bits.

That meant playing with the instrument cluster. I have two here. One from a US spec FJ-60, and one from a Canadian BJ-60. I bought the BJ one mostly for the diesel tachometer and the glow light.

...but then I bought the Dakota Digital tachometer converter, so I will use the gas tachometer anyway.

But that meant replacing the "choke" indicator with the "glow." It's a 1 banana job, really. Naturally I took it all apart and cleaned everything thoroughly with hot water and dish soap first, then set about swapping the indicators.

The indicator screen is just attached with these two plastic nubs. Carefully drill them and it will pop right out.

The "choke" and "glow" indicators both out.

Then you put the glow screen into the cluster and attach it using two little dabs if super glue. It's very easy to use too much here.

All done! Good as new!

Ok, almost as good as new. I'm debating taking the gauges back out and polishing the faces to make them REALLY like new. But that might be overdoing it, since they look pretty darn good right now.

Dan